Mushrooms in the home: growing and grooming
Contents ✓
- ✓ Selection of mycelium for growing mushrooms
- ✓ Mushroom winter and the cultivation of winter and winter at home
- ✓ Sterilization of the fungal substrate
- ✓ Mushrooms: inoculation, incubation and initiation
- ✓ How it is more convenient to collect mushrooms?
- ✓ Cultivation of shiitake mushrooms
- ✓ Substrate preparation and planting shiitake
- ✓ Oyster mushrooms - growing
- ✓ Fruiting of oyster mushroom
- ✓ Grow mushrooms on stumps and logs
- ✓ Experiment with the cultivation of summer snow
- ✓ Mushrooms on the table and stock
- ✓ Note: advice from an experienced mushroom picker
- ✓ Growing mushrooms at home - advice from specialists
- ✓ GROWING POMA DELICIOUS MUSHROOMS
- ✓ CHAMPIGNONS IN THE GREENHOUSE - VIDEO
How to grow mushrooms in the home
Many gardeners would like to grow tasty, edible mushrooms in the garden or at home. But not everyone knows which of the mushrooms can be grown and where to start this process.
And to start better with wood mushrooms of which the best known are oyster mushrooms and shiitake, as well as winter mushrooms.
Why it is easier to start with wood mushrooms.
Mushrooms that grow on trees require a minimum of care. They do not require sterile conditions, such as mushrooms.
The fact is that all the mushrooms growing on the tree give off a lot of carbon dioxide to the wood on which they grow, which in turn suppresses the growth of their main competitors - mold fungi.
Therefore, for the cultivation of these fungi at home, neither chemicals nor poisons are needed, which means that the products will be useful and environmentally friendly.
Garden and edible mushrooms
For the cultivation of edible mushrooms, you can use a cereal mycelium (it is always on sale, but it is only necessary to purchase it from well-established firms), they are planted with stumps or chunks. But the best solution is the substrate blocks from the twigs milled in the garden chopper. Unlike stumps, branches are not infected with mushrooms, and the harvest of mushrooms on such blocks is much larger than on logs.
Whims of mushrooms
As for oyster mushrooms (Pleurotusostreatus). it is easier and more convenient to grow on substrate blocks that are installed outdoors, in the garden or under a canopy. The fruiting of this fungus takes place only in cool and rainy weather in summer or autumn, so it will be too hot in the greenhouse.
Compared with oyster mushroom, shiitake (Lentinus edodes) grows 4 times slower, in addition, it requires obligatory heat treatment of the substrate. Nevertheless shiitake is considered the ideal fungus for the garden, as it fructifies well both in a greenhouse (photo 1). and in the open air (from April to October).
Flammulina velvet (Flammulina velutipes), or winter frost (photo 2). also requires heat treatment of the substrate, in addition, during fruiting, the plant needs a high humidity of air. Therefore, for the forcing of this fungus, special paper cylinders are used, inside which optimum conditions are created - high humidity and the necessary concentration of carbon dioxide.
Selection of mycelium for growing mushrooms
Everyone knows that fungi reproduce by spores, but a more reliable "crop-in culture" occurs with the aid of a cereal mycelium. As a rule, the cereal mycelium is sold in plastic bags with an air filter or a cotton stopper. It is a grain of millet, barley or wheat, planted with a mycelium of the desired fungus (photo 4). It should be borne in mind that the permeability of the air filter is of great importance, since air is very important for the life of the mycelium. For correct internal circulation of air, the bag should stand upright, with the filter upwards. Store mycelium in such a package can be up to six months in a domestic refrigerator; but not in the freezer.
In fact, the cereal mycelium is not the seed, but the vegetative growth points of the mycelium in the substrate. With this sowing (inoculation), all the genetic properties of the fungus, including its hybrid varieties, are retained.
For the cultivation of fungi in the garden, you can use not only cereal mycelia, but also the substrate of wood fungi - it is sold in the form of wooden dowels or sticks, mastered mycelium. However, your choice is better to stop on the grain mycelium: it is a good nutritional supplement in the wood substrate, and it is clearly visible any disturbances in the quality of the mycelium (green or dark spots of mold).
For the same reason, you should avoid buying mycelium mushrooms in small bright bags with images of mushrooms, which sometimes sell in flower shops. It is better to purchase a package of grain mycelium with a mass of 18 kg and pack it in polyethylene bags with a latch in 200.
In addition to 120 × 170 mm bags for packing mycelium, you will need: 1% whiteness solution, toilet paper roll (unlike napkins in packs of toilet paper in rolls is sterile) and a stapler. Prepare a basin, a tablespoon, and scales as well.
In a clean room without ventilation, wipe the table and basin with a clean cloth dampened with a solution of whiteness. Transfer a portion of the grain mycelium into the basin and mash it with your hands into separate grains. Pour 200 g of mycelium into a bag. From toilet paper, make a multilayer square 30 × 30 mm - this will be an air filter. Insert it into the bag latch, close the rest of the latch. Fasten the neck of the bag with a stapler (photo 5). then glue the throat to the bag with tape.
It is important to know that with sterile mushroom cultivation technology, cooked but not fruit bearing blocks can be used to seed new portions of the substrate.
Mushroom winter and the cultivation of winter and winter at home
Unfortunately, winter hood is still very little known to gardeners, but it is worth it to take a closer look. This mushroom has good taste. and the technology of its cultivation is quite simple and not so costly.
How to prepare a substrate
Ready-to-bear substrate substrate blocks winter can be purchased or manufactured independently. For the production you need: polypropylene bags (they are more heat-resistant than polyethylene), cotton plugs, a large basin (for mixing the substrate), a bit of gypsum (alabaster or chalk is suitable), grain - wheat, rye or pearl barley - and the basis for the future substrate - wood sawdust, sunflower husks or ground in a garden chopper (photo 1) branches of deciduous trees and shrubs.
In one package, the volume of 5 l should be 2,5 l of substrate and the same amount of air above it. A bag of this volume is easy to make from a polypropylene sleeve with a width of 25 cm, a length of 50 cm. A rustling polyethylene (HDPE) bag that can withstand temperatures above 100 ° C is also suitable. The other side of the sleeve, which will be the bottom of the bag, must be sealed thermally or with an adhesive tape.
Wadded-plugs with a diameter of 4 cm can be made from cotton wool or from synthepone, which was not in use. To do this, tightly roll a strip of synthepone with a length of 30-40 cm and a width of 5-7 cm into the roll. Wrap the roll with threads as the coil of wool is wound.
Put in the pelvis all the components (see the table) - from the calculation of the required number of blocks (instead of gypsum in the substrate you can add chalk), mix several times and leave the mixture for a while until all the water has absorbed. Then expand the substrate into packets - 1300 g each (2 photo). An empty part of the package is needed in order to make a "collar" for mushrooms. Throat the sacs with cotton or synthetone stoppers, pull it around with a string around the plug. For about a week, hold the bags closed with stoppers at a temperature of at least 16 ° C, so that the substrate is evenly soaked with moisture and mold molds grow in it-then they will be easier to destroy during heat treatment. If water accumulates on the bottom of the bag, you must drain it. puncture the package or cut off the corner, and then tightly seal the hole with adhesive tape.
Variants of substrate formulations for growing mushrooms per 1 block weighing 1300 |
||||||
Material for substrate |
Basis (G) |
Grain (G) |
Гипс (alabaster) (G) |
Water (ml) |
||
Chips of dried branches |
800 |
100 |
10 |
400 |
||
Chips of Fresh Branches |
1100 |
100 |
10 |
200 |
||
Dry sawdust |
400 |
100 |
10 |
800 |
Sterilization of the fungal substrate
The next operation is the heat treatment (sterilization) of the substrate in an autoclave or in a barrel at the stake. The first option, of course, is preferable. In this case, in a household autoclave, simply put the closed polypropylene bags with the soaked substrate and hold them under increased pressure and at a temperature of 120 ° C 3-4 hours. At the same time in the autoclave sterilized in a gauze bag previously removed from the packages of cotton plugs - they will be needed later. Such heat treatment of the substrate is the most reliable.
If the use of the autoclave is not possible, sterilization of the substrate at the stake in a barrel at a temperature of 95-100 ° C is permissible. To do this, take the 200-liter barrel (photo 3), securely install it on concrete blocks or on stones above the fireplace. At the bottom put a few bricks to a height equal to 1 / 3 the height of the barrel, and on them set the reinforcement mesh. Pour water into the barrel so that its level is below the grid by 5 cm.
You can do without bricks if you drill three holes 8 a barrel at the desired level and three nuts with a thread of diameter 10 mm, with which the grid will hold, will be screwed with nuts. Packages with a substrate, closed with cotton plugs, set on the reinforcing mesh is not too tightly to each other. With the help of studs and another reinforcing mesh, you can create a second floor in the barrel.
Cover the barrel with a lid and build a fire. It is better to start work in the morning, in order to have time to do everything before dark. Boil the water in the barrel for at least four hours, counting from the moment of boiling. After this, leave everything to cool for the night. The next day, take out the packages with the substrate (photo 4) from the barrel and, without removing the plugs, put them for further cooling to the place where you will later work with the mycelium. It should be a clean room without ventilation or some kind of windless place in the fresh air.
See also: How to grow white mushrooms right in the garden or garden
Mushrooms: inoculation, incubation and initiation
When the substrate cools down to a temperature below 30 ° C (you need to measure the temperature inside the substrate block), you can proceed to inoculation - so professional mushroom growers call the introduction of a mushroom mycelium into the substrate, and it's easier to sow or infect. First, wipe the table, a large plate and a large spoon with a cloth moistened with an 1% whiteness solution (bleaching agent). Put a piece of mycelium in a plate and smash it with your hands. Place one of the bags next to the plate, untie the string on his throat, remove the stopper and pour a tablespoon of mycelia onto the surface of the substrate. Replace the stopper and tie the throat of the bag with a string around the cork. In the same way, insert the mycelium into the remaining substrate blocks.
The next stage of growing mushrooms will be called incubation of mycelium, and, more simply, germination or overgrowth. In order for the mycelium to expand quickly and evenly throughout the substrate block, certain conditions are necessary, primarily the air temperature is not lower than 12 ° C and not higher than 20 ° C. Humidity does not matter, so the bags can be placed both indoors and outdoors in the garden, always in the shade.
Overgrowth will continue for approximately 30 days. Through the film of the packet it is clearly seen how the white threads (hyphae) of the mycelium entangle the entire substrate block, making it lighter and more dense.
After this period, packets with germinated mycelium are transferred to a room with an air temperature of 8-12 ° C and a relative humidity of 80-85% or set them in the garden. To transfer blocks to the place of their future fruiting should be carefully, trying not to damage the surface of the block. Now remove the cork from the packages. The upper part of the packs straighten, so that it becomes cylindrical.
And when on the surface of the substrate begins to appear white fluff (the rudiments of the fruit bodies, ie, the mushrooms themselves), start periodically spraying the substrate with water from the spray gun. To make the appearance of fruit bodies more amicable and reliable, it is possible to initiate (stimulation of fruit formation) a cold shock.
To do this, packets with substrate must be kept 5 days at low temperature (4-10 ° C) in the basement or in the refrigerator, and then transferred to the fruiting site in the garden or in a room with a temperature of 15-20 ° C. When growing winter in the basement with a temperature of 4-10 ° C, initiation is not required. It is possible to initiate the formation of rudimentary buds and freeze mycelium.
To do this, packets with a substrate after incubation are placed for 3 hours in the freezer, and in winter they are simply put on the street. Then it is kept at a temperature of 1-5 ° C in the refrigerator or basement 2-3 day. And then transferred to the shade to fresh air or into a room with a temperature of 15-20 ° C. After 3-4 days, small mushrooms should appear, which in the package will begin to stretch upwards (photo 5).
Fruiting bodies {then. what we. in fact, we call mushrooms) are quite small. Collecting them individually is very difficult. Therefore, a technology has been developed that ensures the elongation of the legs and thereby greatly facilitates the collection of fungi. If the winter froth is grown in bottles or jars, then collars with the height of 20-30 are put on their neck after incubation. In the open polypropylene bags, the role of the collars can be performed by the top of the package unfilled with the substrate. Collars retain in the growth zone of the fruit bodies the carbon dioxide released from the substrate. and the mushrooms tend to "escape" from it to the air to oxygen, their legs are stretched out - it all looks like a flower bouquet (photo 6).
Since the appearance of the rudiments of the fruit bodies, winter light is needed light 50-100 luxury. More intensive (especially natural) lighting contributes to the appearance of a bright color of the fungi (photo 7) and unwanted hardening of the foot. When forcing winter inventory in the cellar, it is enough to turn on an electric bulb with an output of 60 W for several hours a day. Unlike the oyster mushroom, the winter can is able to form the correct form of fungi in total darkness in the cellar. In this case, the mushrooms turn white, but their taste does not change. For example, these white mushrooms (photo 8) grew in complete darkness, then for some reason the cellar lid was opened, and the new mushroom grew yellow-brown.
How it is more convenient to collect mushrooms?
The edges of the package should be wrapped down and cut a whole bunch of mushrooms (photo 9) with a knife or scissors. Through 12-14 days the second wave of fruiting will go, and behind it the third. Biological efficiency of substrate use (ratio of raw weight of fungi to dry weight of substrate) with sterile cultivation technology reaches 150%. Usually the first wave yields the greatest yield, which is for a packet with 2.5 l substrate 250-350 g mushrooms. The main part of the crop is the legs. Pleasant taste and have hats and legs, but gourmets still prefer softer bonnets.
Cultivation of shiitake mushrooms
Acquaintance with mushroom
Shiitake - it's Japanese, or Chinese, mushroom.
In Russia it became known relatively recently, although in its homeland, in China, it has been used in cooking and medicine for more than two thousand years. In form and color, it resembles meadow mushrooms, with only one difference - the hat is not white, but brown. The mushroom is delicious, it belongs to the category of delicacies, but its main advantage is unusual healing properties, comparable only with ginseng.
Shiitake is able to prolong life - that's what the Chinese and Japanese say about him, calling him the emperor's mushroom or the elixir of life. It helps the body resist viruses and even cancerous tumors. Shiitake now ranks second (after the mushroom) in popularity among cultivated mushrooms. Like winter, it is more convenient to cultivate it on substrate blocks.
Substrate preparation and planting shiitake
For the production of substrate blocks under the shiitake, oak chips or sawdust are best suited. But the fungus grows well and on the milled branches of any deciduous trees and shrubs (photo 1). For grinding in a garden shredder, long straight branches up to 4 thickness are suitable, both bare and with foliage. There is a successful experience of cultivation of shiitake from chips of birch, yellow acacia, alder, willow, aspen and oak.
The optimum volume of substrate in one polypropylene or polyethylene bag in this case is 5 l. How to make a package of the right size and a cotton plug, is described in the section on wintering, and the compositions of the substrate of necessary humidity (65%) for one block with mass 2600 g and volume 5 l are given in the table. As an additive, you can use grains of barley, wheat or pearl barley. It is useful to make 10 g chalk.
After you have measured the right amount of ingredients, fold everything into a basin and soak for an hour, stirring regularly. Remove the remaining water through a sieve.
Spread the substrate into packets (2600 g each). Cover the throat with cotton or synthetic stoppers and tighten with string. Hold packages with a substrate for three days at a temperature not lower than 16 ° C (for uniform distribution of moisture and sprouting spores of mold fungi). Water, collected at the bottom of the packages, drain. Then sterilize the substrate blocks (photo 2) in an autoclave or in a barrel at the stake.
The next day, take out the packets with the cooled substrate from the barrel, make sure that the temperature inside the substrate is below 30 ° C. and begin inoculation with a mycelium - just like with a winter drop.
Incubation and forcing of mushrooms
To master the entire substrate in the package (in a warm place at a temperature of 20-26 ° C), the shiitake mycelium will take more than two months. Through the film, watch how the overgrowth is going. - By the end of the process, the substrate must become white or white with brown spots, and possibly brown. On the block, characteristic growths of the same color as the rest of the block surface, called popcorn mushrooms, may appear. But these are not yet the rudiments of fruit bodies - with the help of such formations shiitakev natural conditions as it repels the bark of the tree. And the rudiments of the fruiting bodies (primordia) are dense dark hillocks, which then turn into a mushroom cap. - will appear later.
Blocks, overgrown with mycelium, can be kept not only indoors, but also in a shady place in the garden. Naturally, the timing of this process will change, but it will not stop. Overgrowth occurs better if the pack is standing upright with a block, with a cotton stopper.
The block can be considered ready for fruit bearing after a partial darkening of the substrate block or the formation of rudimentary buds on its surface (photo 3). It must be borne in mind that, unlike other tree fungi, shiitake forms fruit bodies not only on the top of the substrate block, but also over its entire surface - that is why the package is removed so that it does not interfere with the process. Do it very carefully, trying not to break the rudiments of the fruit bodies. Then the blocks are washed in cold water, washing off the exudate, and set to the place where the fruiting will pass (4).
If the block is too long there are no fruit bodies or their buds, you can accelerate their appearance with the help of cold shock. For this, do not remove the unit from the package, keep it in the cold (from 0 to 10 ° C) for at least three days. After that, the block in the package is transferred to a warm place (15-25 ° C) and cover it with a plastic film. After a while, remove the pack, wash the blocks under a stream of cold water and set them in place for fruiting.
Variants of formulations per 1 block of mass 2600 g
Substrate material | Dry substrate (g) | Grain (G) | Water 1 (ml) |
Chips of dried branches | 1500 | 100 | 1000 |
Chips of Fresh Branches | 2200 | 100 | 300 |
Sawdust dry oak | 1200 | 100 | 1300 |
Where and how to grow mushrooms Shiitake
Strange as it may seem, but shiitake mushrooms on the substrate blocks grow best in a shady place in the garden or in greenhouses with cucumbers and tomatoes, if the daytime temperature there does not exceed 30 ° C. In themselves, these blocks are strong, covered with a dense crust of mycelium, so they are convenient to carry, if this becomes necessary. Blocks can be put or put directly to the ground. With regard to care, before fruiting it is limited to watering in dry weather (this is done both for moistening and cooling), and after the appearance of fungi, blocks need daily watering (in the dry season they should be covered with a cap of polyethylene film (photo 5).
Reference by topic: How to grow seedlings - Part 1
Fruiting will improve if the place where the blocks are located is well protected from all sides from the wind, and on the south side from the sun. A good option is a lowland or a pit where rainwater is collected (photo 6).
Here, the substrate retains moisture well and cools, so the fungi grow even in dry weather, in spring and summer, without any shelter. Unbroken blocks with a dense brown crust can bear fruit even on the surface of the water. To form the rudiments of the fungi, place the unit in a puddle from the rain, into the pool (photo 7) or into a barrel of water.
About a week later on the wet side of the block the rudiments of fruit bodies are formed. After this, the block must be turned over, and after 7-10 days, high-quality fruit bodies form on its surface. Substrate blocks, which have lost weight in dry weather, should be soaked. For this, pierce them with a narrow knife in three places and drown them in the water for the night. Collect the mass of the block again in the garden.
In the garden blocks with shiitake from spring to autumn give a big harvest of dense, tasty and to the same curative mushrooms. Hat mushrooms use for soups and roast, knead the legs to make a healing powder or tincture. And from the most meaty hats you get a wonderful mushroom shish kebab.
Oyster mushrooms - growing
These simple-looking, but very tasty and healthy mushrooms can now be easily purchased in a store or on the market, and if desired, collected in the forest or grown on a garden plot.
According to their taste, nutritional and medicinal properties, they are quite inferior to shiitake. but significantly exceed them in terms of unpretentiousness and accessibility in cultivation.
In the wild, for example, in our climatic conditions, oyster mushrooms grow on the stumps and trunks of drying trees. Its mushrooms appear usually in the autumn. Outwardly, they are irregular in shape - resemble ears of a dark gray or brownish color, caps - from 5 to 20 cm in diameter, usually grow large intergrowths.
Similarly, these fungi also look in culture, when grown on artificial substrata or on stumps and chunks.
Substrate blocks
Substrate blocks for oyster mushrooms are prepared in the same way as for winter cuttings and shiitake. As a substrate, you can use sawdust and branches of deciduous trees, except oak.
Start with the preparation of the substrate mixture in the pelvis, fill it with bags, insert cotton plugs, tie. After three days - the time for sprouting spores of mold fungi - sterilize the substrate in an autoclave or in a barrel on a fire and leave it to cool for the night.
The next day, take out the bags with the substrate from the barrel and make eight oblique incisions of 6 cm on each one (in the photo 1 this process is shown in the example of small blocks).
Through these holes, aeration of the substrate will be carried out, and then the mushrooms themselves can grow (photo 3). Measure (through the incision) the temperature inside the package and, if it is below 30 ° C, begin inoculation (insertion of the mycelium).
Cut the mycelium into separate grains. Pour a teaspoon of mycelium into the substrate through the hole in the bag (photo 2) and seal it with adhesive tape. Do not forget to leave a tail on the scotch when the package is sealed, so that it is easier to remove later. In the same way, insert the mycelium into the substrate and through all the other holes, and then seal them.
To incubate mycelium in a substrate, place bags in a room with a temperature of 16-24 ° C. After 4-7 days, make sure that the mycelium has formed white spots of overgrowth around the glued holes. When they are completely overgrown with mycelium, remove the adhesive tape from the packages or make 2 × 2 cm cross cuts on it.
Place the bags in their original place for further incubation. After 25-30 days, the entire substrate block will overgrow with mycelium and become white, ie, it will be ready to bear fruit.
Where are oyster yields more
Oyster yields good harvests outdoors in the garden (photo 4), but they will be even more if grown this mushroom indoors.
To obtain a serious harvest under such conditions, a completely different technology is required. First, it touches the substrate. For its preparation you need: straw wheat (harvested in dry time and crushed to 2-5 cm), bonfire flax (good that it does not need to be ground), cotton napkins (cotton fibers with cotton seeds), sunflower husks and its mixture with straw, hay (but not grass grass), small chips and sawdust of deciduous trees (sawdust is also suitable as an additive). The ideal substrate is a mixture of cotton fleece and wood chips (50: 50).
Initially, the dry substrate substrate is mixed with additives. As a nutritional supplement, you can use dry lawn grass (up to 20%) or bran (up to 10%), as well as gypsum and lime - 1% of the dry substrate weight. The substrate is then heat treated in hot water.
For heat treatment, the substrate is laid in polypropylene woven bags (from sugar), which is put in a metal tank, poured into them with hot water (75-90 ° C) and kept at this temperature for 4 hour. Then the water is drained through the valve at the bottom of the tank and leave the substrate for the night to cool slowly and release the remaining water.The next day, the cooled substrate is transferred to a clean room for inoculation.All room (especially the surface of the tables) must be pre-washed and treated with bleach (after bleaching all
For inoculation with oyster mushroom, the substrate is shaken out on a table and mixed with mycelium at the rate of 3% mycelium from the weight of the finished substrate (450 g per block with a mass of 15 kg). The seeded substrate is densely packed into perforated polyethylene bags. To incubate the mycelium, the bound bags are transferred to a room with an air temperature of 24 ° C.
Reference by topic: How to grow seedlings correctly - Part 2
After 20 days, the substrate blocks will be ready for fruit bearing. Polyethylene bags with a diameter of 25,5 cm are easily made from a polyethylene sleeve with a width of 40 cm. The length of the bag should be 65 cm (based on the weight of the finished block in 15 kg). The bags are pre-made from 18 to 24 holes with a diameter of 2 cm (photo 4).
Fruiting of oyster mushroom
Place the bags with the overgrown substrate vertically on the ground in the garden or in the greenhouse and watch when the first mushrooms appear from the cut openings (photo 6). The optimum air temperature during this period should be 13-17 ° C, and humidity 70-90%. Such conditions in nature are in autumn or rainy summer. In comparison with shiitake, oyster mushroom is much worse in the summer when the temperature is elevated. Mushrooms in this case grow thin, fragile, white. They are quite edible, but poorly stored and inconvenient for cooking.
To increase humidity, substrate blocks can not be covered with a package, unlike blocks with shiitake. The mycelium of fungi constantly emits carbon dioxide, but for the formation of oyster mushrooms the correct form in the air should be small. Therefore, if fungi are grown indoors, there necessarily must be ventilation. And to maintain the necessary humidity will help the commercially available ultrasonic air humidifiers ("cold steam"), better equipped with a timer that will turn on the humidifier for 5 minutes every hour.
In the garden, you can put the oyster in the shaded from the south side of the greenhouse and moisten the air with regular watering. In a greenhouse with a lot of plants you can do without moisture.
For extorting a large number of mushrooms from blocks weighing 15 kg, a shaded greenhouse or a special cultivation room should be identified, where it is necessary to maintain the air temperature 13-15 ° C and the relative humidity 80-90%. When the blocks are tightly installed (photo 7), you must constantly remove carbon dioxide and apply humidified air from the street. And in a room without windows, also illuminate the fruit-bearing blocks with lamps for 8 hours per day (photo 8).
Collect mushrooms as they appear, gently breaking off the legs from the substrate block.
Grow mushrooms on stumps and logs
Growing mushrooms in the garden on stumps or logs is not as easy as it seems at first glance. For this purpose, the remains of trees, fallen down in autumn, after the fall of the fall, in winter or early spring, until the beginning of the sap flow. In this case, the wood will have an optimum relative humidity for the mycelium - 40-50% (the ratio of the mass of water to the total mass). The type of wood is also important. For winter cuttings, willow is preferred - cuts of 5-15 in cm in length 30-100 cm. For shiitake - oak or alder, cuttings with a diameter of 10-20, see length 100, see.
For oyster moths, pieces of logs (diameter 20-40 cm, length 40-50 cm) of any deciduous trees, except for oak and stone fruit, are suitable. Such segments are convenient because in the first year of infection they can be placed in a standard polyethylene garbage bag.
See also: How to grow sorghum and make brooms from it
To sow the wood with a mycelium is most convenient in drilled holes with a diameter of 20 mm and a depth of 6 cm, which are distributed over the log surface at a distance of 4-8cm from each other. At 1.mg, about 200 g of mycelium will be required. Drilling holes and sowing logs on a clean polyethylene film. Fill the holes with mycelium and compact it. To prevent the mycelium from spilling out, cover the holes with a garden tar or sticky tape.
Then place the logs in a polyethylene garbage bag (photo 1) and close it with a foam or cotton plug - for air exchange. To do this, pass the throat of the bag through a piece of garden hose with a diameter of 4-5 cm and a length of 4-5cm and insert a piece of foam rubber or cotton wool into the hole formed. Sacks with seeded logs for the period of overgrowing (incubation), which lasts from one to three years, it is better to put in a basement or some other room with a positive temperature.
Chubans, overgrown with mycelium for at least one year, free from the bag and put on the ground, preferably in a small depression. The place for fruiting fungi should be chosen in such a way that it is open only to the west or to the east, and on the other sides is shaded by plants. The fruiting period on the tree segments is 5-7 years, but the yield is small (photo 2,3) compared to the yield on the substrate blocks.
Experiment with the cultivation of summer snow
Summer hairs can be grown on wood blocks and lumber in both open ground and in the greenhouse. The most suitable substrate is wood (fresh or aged for several days in water). Suitable wood of any kind of deciduous trees (with the exception of stone fruit), not infected with pungent fungi, which are dangerous competitors. Coniferous species also approach, but the fruit is much worse on them.
Immediately before inoculation of the mycelium, the trunks with a diameter of 15-50 cm are cut into logs of length 30-50 cm, so that each has freshly peeled ends. The moisture content of the wood should be 50-90%.
The seeding of the logs with the grain mycelium of the summer sward is carried out in holes drilled in the wood in the same way as described above. However, on sale such a mycelium is very rare, so amateur mushroom growers can use a simpler and more affordable method. To do this, gather in the forest mushrooms summer sword with well-formed hats. In a damp room (cellar) with a concrete floor on the first block, put a layer of hats with the plates down, put a second block on it, cover it with the mushroom caps, put the next one. Get a column of 4-6 chump. The upper block also cover with mushroom heads, on which you put a board or cardboard.
If the relative humidity in the room is low, cover the column with wrapping paper, which is daily moistened with water. At a temperature of 12-20 ° C for 4 a month, the mycelium should grow in wood to a depth of 4 cm and securely bond the logs in the column to each other. Then the entire column can be moved to the garden and buried in the ground, better humus. In another 2-3 month, when the mycelium has completely mastered all the wood, mushrooms will also grow.
Fruit-bearing in the garden summer canopy is able to sow spores laid next to, soaked blockheads. Therefore, it is also possible to divorce summer sparrows by transferring branches or logs with mushrooms from the forest.
Mushrooms on the table and stock
The most delicious and healthy mushrooms are those that grew in optimal conditions for each species and were collected on time. . For example, the oyster is supposed to be harvested when the mushroom caps have not yet straightened up and started to dry up, and then immediately processed. Important: mushrooms can not be stored at room temperature, and prolonged storage in the refrigerator for them, too, is undesirable.
The fact is that maturation of spores continues in the cut oyster mushroom bodies, while the tasty and wholesome protein substances of fungi lose their properties. In addition, ripening and spilling out spores in some people can cause severe allergies.
Therefore, the collected mushrooms must be immediately put into cooking or freezing (photo 1). preliminary problansirovav them in boiling water 2-5 minutes (so they are not so fragile, more suitable for tight packaging). Oyster can generally be considered a fungus, created by nature itself for use in fried form. It does not fall apart to a formless mass, but remains in the form of mouth-watering pieces.
Shiitake mushrooms remain much better than oyster mushrooms. But overgrown mushrooms become stiff and less tasty (although they do not lose their healing properties). These mushrooms are dense enough, do not crumble, are convenient for culinary processing (photo 2), but they are still recommended to blanch. Shiitake is very good in hot and soup, fry them better in a mixture with other mushrooms to somewhat mute their pronounced taste.
Winter gin is suitable for soups and for frying. For storage, it is better to freeze it with a whole bunch.
Bouquets - from freshly cut mushrooms can be used in salads (photo 3) even without heat treatment.
Note: advice from an experienced mushroom picker
The season of quiet hunting is in full swing. It's time to decide who to "hunt" for and how to keep your "prey".
All mushrooms can be divided into three types: edible, conditionally edible and poisonous. This division is considered approximate, so the same fungus in different sources can refer to different types. In addition, there are territorial features of the division: a mushroom that is a delicacy in one country can be considered poisonous in another.
The difference between edible mushrooms and the rest is that they can be eaten without additional treatment, that is, without soaking and prolonged boiling with repeated draining of water. These include white mushrooms, boletus, poderyozoviki, maslata, mosses, white mushrooms, ryzhiki, russula.
Conditionally edible fungi are distinguished by the presence of foreign flavors, impurities (sand, burrows), and in some cases even toxins. Another thing is that after drying, soaking or heat treatment, they become safe and suitable for eating. and by their taste qualities some of them will give odds to even noble species. By conventionally edible fungi are morels, freckles, and sweets.
To determine whether a poisonous fungus is not always easy. Some of them are very similar to edible species.
So, for example, a false mushroom, a false chicken and a false chanterelle can reveal only an experienced mushroom picker for a number of specific features. In any case, if you doubt the found fungus, it is better not to take risks.
Experienced mushroom pickers know a lot of mushrooms, which fans of quiet hunting undeservedly leave without attention. Let's talk about the safest conditionally edible mushrooms, to confuse which with others - it's difficult. One of them is an umbrella. Edible are considered umbrella variegated, umbrella blushing and thin. In food, the umbrella is used fried boiled or salted. It does not require long processing and has valuable taste qualities. The danger of an umbrella is in the presence of inedible subspecies and similarity with fly agaric, so at the slightest doubt the fungus should be left untouched. Umbrellas grow on fields and pastures, and a blushing umbrella can be found in coniferous forests.
Another unusual mushroom - dunger. Despite its name, it is considered a delinace. The manure grows on well-fertilized soils. Of the many subspecies of the fungus, only a few are edible - for example, white, gray and ordinary. Cook them right after the harvest, as these mushrooms quickly decompose. An important feature of the fungus-dung - when used with drinks containing alcohol, it causes severe food poisoning!
Romarya golden or yellow they are also called reindeer or coral for an unusual shape. You can find it on mossy areas in pine forests. Before consumption, mushrooms are boiled. The value of coral is in its tender flesh. But to collect reindeer horns, not having experience, is very dangerous, since it has inedible twins.
What to do with mushrooms-though grown with at least some collected ...
Freezing
The simplest and safest way of storing fungi for a long time is freezing. In its raw form it is possible to freeze white mushrooms, boletus, podberezoviki and paddocks. Others, before you send to the freezer, you need to cook, observing the technology of cooking.
You can store frozen mushrooms for a year.
COUNCIL
Determine that the mushrooms were cooked, not difficult: if they swim on the surface of the water, then raw, if dropped to the bottom - boiled.
Dried mushrooms and mushroom flour
A real winter delicacy is dried mushrooms. For this type of harvesting, white, boletus, birch bark, oak, oily, scallop, chanterelle, as well as moss, morels and stitches are suitable.
Mushrooms need to be cleaned in a dry way. Drying can be done both in the dryer and on a sunny ventilated place, spreading them on a baking tray or hanging on a string. A better product is obtained if the fungi are first dried in air, and then brought to the desired state in the oven or dryer. For storage, tissue bags will be needed. You can store dried mushrooms within a year.
COUNCIL
For storage, you can lay well-dried mushrooms, which break, but do not crumble.
Mushroom flour is a wonderful seasoning for many dishes or their component. Prepare the flour from the milled dried mushrooms.
Salted mushrooms
A nice cold snack is salted mushrooms. There are two main ways of salting - cold and hot.
In the first case, the fungi must be sorted, sorted and soaked. The duration of soaking depends
COUNCIL
Marinate and salt different вida mushrooms better separately — so will remain taste и aroma, intrinsic to each. When preparing different mushrooms together, it is difficult to observe the peculiarities of their preparation.
from the species of fungi, on average it is two days. The most suitable mushrooms for cold pickles are mushrooms, redheads, deer, russula.
Hot salting involves the procurement of boiled mushrooms. There are excellent taste qualities of the valui. freckles, butter, chanterelles.
Salted mushrooms are stored for about six months.
Marinated mushrooms
It is recommended to pickle boiled mushrooms. They can be welded separately, then the pickle will be more light and attractive externally. - or directly in the marinade, which will saturate it with taste and aroma. For this method of preparation suitable white, boletus, podberezoviki, oily, chanterelles, ryzhiki, russula.
Marinated mushrooms are stored for about 8 months.
Mushroom spawn
Mushroom eggs are prepared from both fresh and salted mushrooms. The technology is simple: prepared mushrooms are stewed with the addition of spices, grinded and laid out in cans or frozen in bags.
COUNCIL
To keep the caviar rich in mushroom taste, mushrooms should be extinguished on medium heat: the dish should boil, but not much.
More often, eggs are made from chanterelles and springs. The caviar is stored - frozen and rolled in cans - for up to a year.
© Author: Natalia Stepanova
Growing mushrooms at home - advice from specialists
Mushrooms for sale - business or ruin
First of all, I will list the most significant problems facing the beginning mushroom growers.
1. Production of substrate or rules for selecting raw materials (straw, husk, flax, sawdust, etc.) and the way it is prepared (hot water or steam, soft pasteurization or rigid sterilization).
2. Microclimate - creating optimal ventilation, thermoregulation and humidification modes in the room where mushrooms are grown.
3. Quarantine regime, necessary to reduce the number of pathogenic microorganisms and insect pests.
4. Pre-sale preparation and marketing of mushrooms. The marketing system for mushrooms should take into account the significant seasonal fluctuations in consumer demand for them. It is important to provide rapid cooling, high-quality packaging and suitable storage conditions for mushrooms.
5. Organizational and legal issues, or minimization of risks associated with renting premises, obtaining loans, lack of mutual understanding between project participants.
Now everything is in order.
Choose mushrooms
It is economically advantageous to grow those kinds of mushrooms whose planting mycelium can be bought in Russia and multiply it on wheat grains of hard varieties, and then profitably sell. These are only two kinds of mushrooms: mushroom bipedal (Agaricus bisporus) and oyster mushroom (Pleurotus ostrea-tus). A good compost of champignon can not be produced in small quantities, so for homestead farming it is possible to recommend only a seamless
a breeding variety of oyster mushrooms that is tasty and beautiful, but can bear fruit without temperature shock (without a sharp drop in temperature), for example strain NK-35 (read as "ash-ka" 35). Shock varieties, such as K12, K15, etc., can yield more crops, but sometimes they crush production, ceasing to bear fruit.
What mushrooms can be grown at home
Oyster mushroom, or oyster (Pleurotus ostreotus), - the most profitable mushroom for the household, if it is grown according to intensive technology with heat treatment of the substrate. Compliance with technology allows you to get the maximum income. Only oyster mushroom manages to capture the substrate rather than mold. The mushroom grower will have to learn how to measure substrate moisture using an oven and scales, prepare a substrate of the desired moisture content, and of course, master the cultivation technology.
Lemon oyster (Pleurotus citrinopileatus) and oyster mushroom pink (Pleurotus djamor) form fruit bodies more fragile and less tasty than oyster mushrooms, and are grown according to the same technology.
Steppe oyster mushroom (Pleurotus eryngii) for advertising purposes are called oyster mushrooms or oyster mushrooms. They grow it according to the technology of P. Ostreatus and even in one room with it.
Shi'inake (Lentinula edodes) has immunomodulatory action and other healing properties. Cultivated on a substrate prepared according to sterile technology.
Maitake, or mushroom-ram (Grifola frondosa), edible at a young age, for medicinal properties close to shiitake. Cultivated the same way. Lacquered tinder, or Reishi (Gonoderma lucidum), -grib inedible, stimulating. Applied in the form of broths and tinctures, grown according to sterile technology, almost the same as shiitake.
Champignon bisexual (Agaricus bisporus) - the one we buy in stores. For him, the most advanced cultivation technology was developed, which, however, is difficult to implement in a private household.
Ring (Stropharia rugoso-annulata) - tasty plate mushroom, in appearance, consistency and taste similar to a white fungus. In the estate, it can be grown on a patch of wood chips (from the area of 30 sq. M., It can be removed daily from 40 to 60 mushrooms weighing about 2 kg).
Substrate for mushrooms
It is important that the substrate substrate is cheap and easily accessible in your area. Too humid, small or too nutritious substrate is easily populated with mold fungi, and all blocks must be discarded.
1. The straw. The ideal substrate is yellow straw of winter wheat or rye. harvested in the dry period, crushed in a straw chopper to 2-5 cm, with the addition of barley grain (10% by weight). Spring cereals are worse than winter crops, worse - barley straw.
2. Sunflower husks do not require grinding and additives. Somewhat complicates the work the grain and oil content in the husk of different butter factories, since the substrate blocks are overheated.
3. Cotton tows - cotton wool containing cotton seeds - give a surprisingly good result. To save, you can add wood sawdust - 50% by volume.
4. Flax bonfire - flax production waste - does not require additional chopping. It gives a good result only when the substrate moisture is not higher than 60%.
5. Wood chips from ground aspen and birch wood (fractions of 0,5-4 cm) - an ideal basis. Add barley grain (10% of the weight of the chips).
Substrate can be done anywhere, in any shed or under a canopy in the street even in winter.
Hydrothermal technology. The substrate is kept in hot (70-100 °) water 4 h in woven polypropylene bags. After processing, the bags are removed from the tank with water and allow the water to drain for 12-24 h.
Processing the substrate with steam. The substrate is moistened in a heap or in a mixer to a moisture content of 55-60%. Then put it on the grids in the tank. having a nozzle for supplying steam under the substrate. Under the leaky lid the substrate is treated with steam 4 h at a temperature of 90-100 ° and left to cool for a night in the same tank.
Failures in work on other technologies are due to the fact that in the substrate remain unvarnished areas of straw or husk (in a dry state mold spores are viable up to 160 °).
Room for growing mushrooms
The most important place in the production of oyster mushrooms is the fruiting chamber. The chamber is filled with substrate blocks from the floor to the ceiling, leaving passages (for air movement in the fungus growth zone).
Most of the failures in the production of fungi are associated with inoculation of the mycelium in a room under one roof with a fruiting chamber of fungi.
Inoculation (introduction of mycelium into the substrate in an amount from 2 to 5% of the substrate weight) is carried out in a separate room.
I noticed that there are fewer problems with mold where the substrate blocks are transported to fruiting in a separate building. In extreme cases, you can inoculate on the street.
The substrate is mixed, poured into polyethylene bags with a diameter of 20 cm of volume 20 l, perforated with sixteen round holes of diameter 1 cm, sealing to fit snugly to the film (optimum density -0,5 kg / l).
Accommodation of blocks and microclimate for mushrooms
It is profitable to sell only a beautiful, tasty and dense oyster of the correct form. And for this, the microclimate in the fruiting chamber is very important.
Optimal for homestead farming can be considered a dual-zone system for the cultivation of oyster mushrooms, when substrate blocks placed vertically are mastered by mycelium in one room. Light is not required, but acceptable. The temperature of the substrate in the center of the substrate block during incubation 16'32 °, air temperature 16-24 °. relative humidity of 70-100%, the concentration of carbon dioxide is high. Ventilation is not required in the incubation chamber: it is only necessary to ensure that the blocks do not overheat above 33 °.
After 20-30 days, the substrate block will turn white: it is ready for fruiting. After the emergence of fungal primordia on some blocks of this batch, the entire batch is transferred to the fruiting chamber. Here the air humidity is 80-90%, the temperature is 15 ° (in winter to save 13 °): the lower the temperature, the darker and more beautiful the mushrooms. At this stage, lighting is necessary for 8-10 hours per day, the intensity is less than 100 lux. An ultrasonic humidifier (“cold steam”) is suitable for humidification. The timer will turn it on for 5 minutes every hour.
In the fruiting chamber it is necessary to constantly supply fresh air from the street, otherwise the fruit bodies will be irregularly shaped, with a small hat and a long stem, and the harvest will decrease. It is difficult to sell these oyster mushrooms. The correct movement of air in the chamber is provided by means of a jet fan: air, repeatedly passing by the fruit bodies, removes carbon dioxide, and then is thrown out onto the street.
From spring to autumn, you can place the oyster in the shaded on the south side of the greenhouse, moistening the air with regular watering (in a greenhouse with a large number of plants you can do without a humidifier). To harvest the oyster mushrooms, gently break out of the perforations of the substrate block, swinging them down and up.
About work on purchased blocks
And what if we buy already ready-to-fruit substrate blocks, chase mushrooms, pack them and sell them? Experience shows that with such a distribution of labor, most of the profit remains with the producers of the substrate, rather than the mushrooms. Substrate blocks make it more profitable than chasing mushrooms: the energy costs of preparing air in the fruiting chamber are much greater than the energy required to heat the air for thermal treatment of the substrate
In addition, if you have not grown mushrooms on purchased blocks, it is difficult to prove that it is not your fault.
However, there is one way: you leave the manufacturer with several blocks you bought and sign them with a permanent felt-tip pen. If his mushrooms also did not grow - let him compensate for all losses. The matter did not reach the court, but in order not to lose their reputation, block manufacturers at least partially compensated for the losses.
Another surprise may be that the blocks may not be the type of oyster, the cultivation of which your technology is tuned and to which your customers are accustomed.
Sanitary-protective measures in mushrooming
1. In the production of the substrate, the water for soaking is passed through the barrel, where the lime layer of Ca (OH) g
2. In a room where the substrate is seeded with a mycelium, a bactericidal ultraviolet lamp is used for a few hours before work. After extinguishing it, wipe with chlorine-containing liquid (-Beliz ", diluted 1: 10) table surface and tools.
3. Anti-mosquito nets with a cell of less than 1 mm cover all openings in the outgrowing rooms, close all the cracks, tightly adjust the doors. This is especially important in the summer to protect against the fungal mosquito.
4. Before entering the "clean" room and in the growth chambers, rags dipped in chlorine containing liquid ("Whiteness", diluted with 1: 10) are placed in rubber mats with bumps.
When preparing a substrate with the required humidity level, protective measures with additives of foundation and other preparations are not needed.
Sales of mushrooms
If you yourself will sell oyster mushroom by the road, in markets, in organizations you know, offer it through your friends and bring it home to your customers - your small business will rise. If you plan to hand it over to resellers, you may not even start production.
In 2004-2008 I went to Yekaterinburg, helped there mushroom grower, which is still successful today. He agreed with the management of the main supermarket of the city on permission to conduct free tasting of oyster mushrooms for customers and at the same time exhibited only beautiful dark splices in the usual packaging. His oyster is sold at a price two times higher than that brought in boxes from other places, and by noon it is no longer there.
On a note:
The easiest method to grow mushrooms in a homestead is to plant oyster mushrooms on stumps or make a bed for a ring in the garden. Labor costs with this method are minimal, mushrooms grow on their own, requiring virtually no cash costs. It is enough to sow wooden blocks of oyster mushrooms with mycelium once, and the mushrooms can bear fruit for 5 years. New lumps can be put on the old ones, then the mycelium will switch to them on its own.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of worm fungi with such technology. However, the ring from such misfortune does not suffer: mushrooms are removed at a young age, while their plates are still closed. For multiplication of the mycelium on a bed of wood chips, it is sufficient to add a new substrate.
Another thing is that you do not get a large income in this way.
© Author: F.KARPOV
CULTIVATION OF MUSHROOMS IN THE GREENHOUSE
The main thing is technology
Growing mushrooms is an exciting experience. This process seems to be complex and time-consuming, but this is not entirely true.
You just need to follow a few rules: choose the right place, buy a quality mycelium, prepare the right substrate, create good temperature conditions
There are several options for growing champignons: on garden beds, in the greenhouse, basement, cellar, on the glazed balcony.
SUBSTRATE PREPARATION
First of all, it is necessary to properly prepare the substrate. I took the straw and horse manure (you can replace the bird's or cow's). The straw was soaked in water for a day's 3, then folded in layers with manure, adding urea and superphosphate. Left to mature, watering every day and shaking layers.
IMPORTANT
The mushroom mycelium of champignons is cereal and compost. Cereal - very productive, compost - less demanding on temperature extremes.
The preparation took about three weeks. After that you can lay out the substrate in boxes or pallets.
MY EXPERIENCE
I decided to grow champignons in the greenhouse. Spread out the prepared substrate on the beds, spread grain cereal from the top and sprinkle it with a thin layer of earth.
That's all, then - watering and warmth. Light mushrooms are not particularly needed.
The first mushrooms sprouted after 2 of the month. During the season you can collect several waves of the crop. Mushrooms are best fruit until it is hot.
READY SOLUTION
If soil preparation and planting seem too tedious to you, you can buy ready-made blocks with champignonamia just to plant them in the beds. Watered abundantly with warm water daily - and literally in a few days you can collect the first crop of small strong mushrooms.
Try and grow mushrooms on your summer cottage. Inquisitive summer resident all on the shoulder!
GROWING POMA DELICIOUS MUSHROOMS
Growing mushrooms at home is nothing new. In fact, more than two thousand years ago, mushrooms were cultivated, as they say, artificially. In Russia, they began to seriously engage in the production of mushrooms about 100 years ago, but a real stir appeared in recent years.
First of all, you should know that the basis of each mushroom is a mycelium, so it is with its purchase that it is worth starting the production of mushrooms.
Acquire mycelium, which by its nature is germinated fungal spores. Then the mycelium is dipped into the substrate, providing it with optimal conditions for growth, and then mushrooms appear.
On sale you can usually see two types of mycelium: cereal and on pieces of wood. The latter is usually valued at twice the price, however, its viability is twice as high and it is much less susceptible to viral infections. For example, if a couple of kilograms of mushrooms can be harvested on a grain, then up to four kilograms on a tree, after which the mycelium will require replacement or yields will drop dramatically.
TECHNOLOGY OF CULTIVATION OF MUSHROOMS IN HOME CONDITIONS
Usually, mushrooms are grown at home, resorting to one of two known methods - extensive and intensive.
The extensive method is as close to natural as possible and involves the production of mushrooms on a site covered only with film or polycarbonate (in fact, in a greenhouse, starting in mid-March). This method is good, but with its help you can harvest only once a season, as well as in the wild - it is chilly there for mushrooms. When using the extensive method, they begin to plant mycelium in mid-March, and already in the first decade of September, if all goes well, it will be possible to start collecting mushrooms.
Substrate for growing mushrooms can be banal land, but it is used quite rarely. Usually all over the greenhouse or on the territory set aside for mushroom cultivation (maybe it will be a small greenhouse), stumps are placed or large pieces of wood are laid out. After that, they make holes in them and spread mycelium there, and then parts of the wood or stumps are dropped on the site or buried in the ground so that only holes with mycelium remain on the surface, which will allow the mushrooms to grow freely.
BTW
Instead of parts of wood, you can use dense bales of straw, as well as plastic bags or boxes, which should be filled with a moistened substrate, which is known to be mixed with mycelium.
The obvious advantages of this method are its cheapness and simplicity, but there is also a drawback: as we have already mentioned, a crop can be harvested only once a season - in the fall, and it will directly depend on the climate conditions.
The second method, the so-called intensive, is much more efficient in terms of harvest, but it is also more expensive. In order to collect thirty or a little more full-fledged crops of mushrooms in one year, it is necessary to create ideal conditions for the development of the mycelium. Usually, it is necessary to build special rooms for this (but sometimes they are banal cellars and cellars) that will be used exclusively for growing mushrooms.
The premises of these collect the basis for mycelium, which most often represents the straw of cereals. It is well crushed and thermally treated (steamed) in order to eliminate the possibility of infection. After this, the substrate is shifted in layers with mycelium, placed in bags or boxes, and laid out on metal shelves.
ATTENTION
The main thing is not to grow mushrooms in the living room, where you spend a lot of time. This is dangerous for a person due to the fact that during the ripening period mushrooms release into the air tens of thousands of spores, which can get into the lungs and cause serious illnesses. Experienced mushroom growers in rooms where mushrooms grow, are exclusively in a gauze bandage or even in a respirator.
It is possible and on wooden, but such racks are short-lived.
Further, in bags filled with substrate and laid out on racks, they make slots through which mushrooms will grow. If the substrate is placed in boxes, then it is necessary to make sure that there is space between the boards of the box for the full development of the fungus. When using this method, the entire development cycle of the fungus is compressed to ten days, that is, a maximum of 35 complete cycles can pass in a year.
TYPES OF MUSHROOMS FOR CULTIVATION IN HOME CONDITIONS
There are quite a lot of them, but most often they grow oyster mushrooms, champignons, circlet, mushrooms and shiitake.
In the first place in this list is the oyster mushroom, its easiest to grow. These mushrooms are unpretentious, fruitful, they have very good taste qualities and are almost as good as forest mushrooms in taste and taste, except a little more watery. Oyster mushrooms are most often grown in plastic bags or on birch stumps.
Mushroom occupies the second place in terms of production popularity at home, it is known for its taste and is easily recognizable by Russians, since it can be purchased all year round in almost every store and on the market. Champignons are a bit more demanding in their growing conditions. In order to get a good harvest of these mushrooms, it is necessary to strictly observe the levels of temperature and humidity. Mushrooms are usually grown in boxes.
A very tasty and quite cold-resistant mushroom that can also be grown at home is a mushroom. Its plus is that even with a small positive temperature, it can grow and develop normally (that's just for March greenhouses and hotbeds, it is quite suitable). Usually, honeydew is grown on pieces of wood; boxes with the substrate are also used, but less often.
From a series of mushrooms that are poorly distributed for growing at home, one can name a ring. He appeared in a comparative culture recently - less than a hundred years ago. The ring-like is similar to a boletus, even a gourmet can distinguish its taste from the “original”. The ring grows well in greenhouses, right on the beds built there or in the basement - in bags and boxes.
Well, a couple of words about the healing mushroom that is fashionable today, which is often attributed to literally miraculous properties - about shiitake. In a culture, they began to grow this mushroom just a few years ago solely because of its medicinal advantages. However, if you really want to harvest this mushroom, then you will need to buy a mushroom picker exclusively in Japan and China, and the mushroom picker that is sold with us, sometimes for fabulous money, is just some kind of real shiitake.
This fungus does not differ capricious nature, it can grow well on pieces of wood or on substrates placed in a bag or box.
PREVENTING MUSHROOM DISEASES
Growing mushrooms at home is always a risk. First of all, to remain without a crop, because, like all living things on this planet, mushrooms also have enemies, and not only pests, but also diseases. They are much easier to prevent than to treat.
The most dangerous are parasitic fungi, they can
it is easy to quickly spoil a lot of fruit bodies, as well as to reduce the activity of growth of fungi, or even lead to their death.
The main cause of parasitic fungi, such as plaster mold, is improperly prepared compost. Plaster mold strongly inhibits the development of fungi, dramatically reduces their yield.
Brown mold fungi most often affect champignons, especially if there is a high concentration of ammonia or increased humidity in the substrate on which they grow. Brown mold mushrooms are also progressing when there is insufficient ventilation in the room where cultivated mushrooms are grown. It is impossible to cure this mold, but to prevent its appearance is quite real. For this, it is necessary to carry out a thorough treatment of the coating material with a foundation.
No less dangerous enemy of cultivated mushrooms, including champignons, is green mold. Mycelium of the parasitic fungus slowly fills the entire substrate, which is covered on top with buds of light green color. On such a substrate champignons die.
Harms champignons and yellow mold. This species originates between the cover material and the substrate. As soon as they noticed that the substrate was affected, then immediately 4% formalin solution should be sprayed around the place where the mushrooms were grown. It is very difficult to deal with the mold that has already appeared. Usually, mushroom growers simply pick all the contaminated material and bury it in the soil somewhere in the wasteland. After this, the place where it was once located should be treated with copper sulfate solution (2-3%). In order to avoid re-occurrence of the disease in the room should be disinfected and thoroughly cleaned.
Yellow-green mold affects not only mushrooms growing in nature, but also home-grown mushrooms. It most often gets into the substrate with infected source material. As soon as the temperature in the substrate starts to rise, mold will actively develop, but if pasteurized, it can be destroyed.
Carmine mold is probably the most unpleasant, it appears even when cultural fungi are formed. It is easy to notice the mold: it is a small white powder puff, which in a very short time covers virtually all the coating material. With the rapid development of this mold, the growth of cultivated mushrooms, especially champignons, decreases sharply and then stops altogether.
Oyster mushrooms and other cultural mushrooms often suffer from olive and spider mold, it can be destroyed by sprinkling with fine salt.
IMPORTANT!
If you don’t want the diseases to appear on your mushrooms, then you must strictly observe the requirements for their cultivation, do not use unfamiliar and untested materials for the substrate, maintain the optimum temperature and humidity in the room, ventilate it and keep it clean.
© Author: N.Khromov
CHAMPIGNONS IN THE GREENHOUSE - VIDEO
During the preparation of the article, the materials of the remarkable edition for summer residents and gardeners "Home and Garden" (Sviyvypusk "Mushrooms in the home") were used. Photo by A.Karpov
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
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Bought morel mycelium. On which substrate should it be sown?
And what kind of care is needed for the mushrooms to appear?
The recommendation for planting says that you need ash, soil, sawdust (1: 6: 3). Soil-for indoor plants. I suspect that it is necessary to use soil for indoor plants - it can be different, both sour and non-acid ...
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Virtually all types of fungi that grow in natural conditions, prefer a slightly alkaline soil.
The most common types of morels are conical morels, which grows in the territories after fires and deforestation, on plant debris and ash. Morel more often grows in open areas on floodplains of rivers, in areas of natural growth of poplar, aspen or alder.
What methods are used for artificial cultivation: on the plantations on the ridges planted pieces of mycelium, it is possible under the apple trees. The surface of the soil is pierced and planted there mycelium.
The positive effect of rotting apples on the growth of fungal mycelium was noted. Or the use of glucose, which is poured into small holes in small amounts; where plant mycelium.
Sawdust, which is mentioned in the recommendations, is not the best material for maintaining moisture, because they acidify the soil. It is better to use rotted leaf litter.
The sowing site on top can be covered with a layer of straw, or hay, which will limit the evaporation of moisture and at the same time will not prevent air exchange.
Mycelium of the fungus grows slowly, gradually conquering space. Depending on the microclimate, fruiting may begin from the end of March to June.
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Mushrooms from the pantry
In winter I grow oyster mushrooms right in the apartment - in the pantry. Crushed straw is densely packed in a bucket, pour boiling water, I give a stand until the complete cooling. Dissolve the substrate evenly pour 0,5 kg of purchased mycelium and put it in a strong plastic bag. I tie, I make a few small holes so that the mycelium "breathes", and put in a dark pantry for 2-3 weeks.
When the straw turns white, cut through the sides of the package holes with a diameter of 2-3, see. As the oyster mushrooms grow, I keep them in a room away from the window and the battery. After 3-5 days I cut the first crop.
Then again I pour the substrate with warm water and return it to the dark pantry until new mushrooms are poured. With one such package, it is usually possible to harvest 6-8 times. Spent substrate I do not throw out - in the spring I put it on a bed as a fertilizer when sowing cucumber seeds.
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I began my science of amateur mushroom growing with the study of the properties of mycelium. If it is poor quality all other efforts can be completely vain
Mycelium in a transparent plastic bag has a white color of a dense consistency with impregnations of grain at the surface
At purchase it is necessary very carefully to examine a package with a mycelium that in nom there was no mold. Moldy mushrooms can be formed if the technology of production of planting material of fungi and, first of all, purity is not observed. When you open the package you should feel a pleasant mushroom flavor. Mycelium can easily be affected by moldy mushrooms and after its acquisition, so when handling it it is important to observe sterility and cleanliness. If the rudiments of mushrooms were formed in the mycelium, they should be immediately separated: in the future, they usually rot.
Grain mycelium acquire exactly as much as is required for the near future. For example, on an 10-liter package with a substrate, I spend about 150-200 g of mycelium, or in the recalculation of approximately 1 kg of mycelium on 10-20 logs of wooden logs
For the time being, there is no sense in stocking the planting material. With 2-3 grad, the heat in the refrigerator can only be stored in the 2-3 model.
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Somehow we read about growing a mushroom on our site of mushrooms and decided to try it for themselves.
Its mushrooms - it's tempting! In spring, aspen logs were brought to the garden of 20-30 cm in diameter. Cut them into pieces of length 20-40 cm placed in a barrel of water for 3 weeks, pre-drilled holes in them with a depth of 5 cm on all sides (to be well saturated with moisture). In May, the store bought 2 kg of mycelium oyster mushrooms.
In the corner of the plot, in the shadow between the currant and the grapes. dug a hole depth of 15-20 cm each. Then they planted the mycelium in the drilled holes of aspen logs, and covered it with garden feces. At the bottom of the dug pits laid on a small handful of mycelium, from above put the logs and sprinkled around the ground to make it fill the voids.
No other work was carried out: the ground was not loosened, the weeds were not weeded out. Since the weather turned out to be dry, it often watered its planting.
And in the middle of the summer we started to grow mushrooms. That was the joy! At first they were happy with each mushroom, then it became commonplace - in fact, we had oyster mushrooms until the fall. Mushrooms are very much liked - in fried, and boiled, and in cutlets.
With the onset of cold weather, the growth of our mushrooms, of course, slowed down, and with the onset of permanent frosts stopped altogether. It was very unfortunate, but we already knew for sure that next year we will definitely have mushrooms. We could not even imagine how this could be without them.
For the winter the plantation was covered with lapnik. If it was snow, the snowmelt was still snowed. Cultivation of oyster mushrooms is quite effortless, we advise everyone, it's a real delicacy, besides it's free.
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Fungus for own mushrooms
Finding a white mushroom is a great success. But why look for him, if you can ... grow! In my country house, for example, I have a special mushroom bed.
In a shady spot in early summer, I dug a ditch depth of 30 cm and a width of 1,5 m. Then I typed in a grove of rotten wood, old needles and forest litter. Needles and litter laid in a pile layers of 15-20 cm, densely sprinkling each with wood dust, manure and watering 1% solution of ammonium nitrate. After 2 weeks, all the layers are thoroughly mixed. The resulting mass fell asleep in the ditch layers by 10, see. Between the layers did about
puffs from the usual forest land thickness 5-7 cm. Above, too, fell asleep with earth. The height of the embankment made about 40 cm.
In 2-th half of the summer went to the forest to look for white mushrooms. When I found it, I cut the adjacent soil together with the mushroom with a knife. "Mushroom" land for a handful fell asleep in the holes on the mound in the garden. The holes were staggered at a distance of 40 cm from one another and a depth of 9-10 cm. The surface of the already filled wells was compacted, covered with a thick layer of leaves and small branches. A year later, my mushroom crop finally yielded.
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At the site and at the neighbors there were placers of small mushrooms - first under an old apple tree, and in the autumn made warm beds, laid down cuts of large trunks and fresh manure down.
It rots the roots of the apple tree and the tree in the beds? Small mushrooms appear periodically, then darken and wither. Are they harmful and how to deal with mushrooms?
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This is probably a fungus - scattered dung beetle (Coprinellus disseminatus), bell-shaped creamy pink caps of mushrooms up to 1,5 cm in diameter quickly fade, become gray-gray, darken, spread out into “ink”. Without moisture, the mushroom dries.
Small hats contain little pulp, so the mushroom is inedible. Colonies (several hundred) of mushrooms live on decaying wood of deciduous trees from May to September-October in the northern temperate zone - they look like a mushroom lawn.
During the season, several generations of them grow and age on a stump. Since manure and rotting wood are present in the ridges, they are composted: they are shed, covered with a film for a long time, they are shoveled from time to time, again shed and covered with a film - in an elevated temperature without air, the spores should burn out. The method of changing the conditions of their habitat will help get rid of mushrooms. Mushrooms prefer to grow in shaded places - lighten the area: cut branches of trees that impede the penetration of sunlight. Decrease the humidity in the area, refuse for a while or significantly limit the watering of the area, remove anything that may rot from the area.
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Oyster mushrooms grow themselves
And not traditionally - on stumps, but in bags with straw, and even hanging.
Straw can be any, but I usually take wheat or rye,
I chop it into pieces of 4-5 cm, put it in a sugar bag, put it in a barrel and fill it with hot water (+ 60 ... + 70 degrees).
There it is macerated 5-6 hours. After it I pour out into the basin, and as cool, lay in layers in a tight black polyethylene bag: a layer of straw in 7 cm, sprinkle mycelium, again a layer of straw in 7 cm, etc. (one bag leaves about 700 g of mycelium). The instructions say that the total height of the straw should be about 60 cm (the volume of 65 cc), but I do a little less, about 50 cm, because The bag is then suspended with the granddaughter in a wooden summer shed.
A week after I make in the package some holes for ventilation (in the manual it is said - 5-6) and immediately covers the bag with a spunbond, which lifts only in the heat or during watering: once in 2 weeks the package is sprinkled with rainwater from barrels. The door to the shed in the heat periodically opens up for airing. The first mushroom caps from the made holes are shown days through 15. During the season, the hostess removes three waves of harvest from the package. Next year he is preparing a new bag. Used straw is poured into the garden, to manure.
TIP: The date of each wave is recorded by the landlady to determine the best time for sowing. For example, last year the mycelium sowed 15 August - and everything got the same. Once she sowed it later - and the mushrooms did not manage to "get out". Then she took the bag from the dacha to the apartment, where she kept it suspended in the bath, but the oyster mushrooms did not germinate there, so they do not pick up any more mushrooms.
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To get a mushroom crop at home, you can use it well.
ventilated heated basement, where in summer the temperature does not exceed +12. "+ 16" C. They can be grown there all year round. But unheated premises allow you to grow only two harvests of champignons: from early May to late August and from early September to early November.
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Mushroom mini-farm
In the basement of high-rise buildings it is usually warm, because there are badly insulated pipes. This makes them ideal premises for growing mushrooms: shiitake. white, cherry. No heating costs! And if you grow champignons, then they do not even need lighting. For other fungi will have to equip the lighting. The humidity in the basement is also suitable -85-90%. To maintain it you will need only watering and you will need to eliminate all drafts. If you manage to get all the necessary permits and arrange a mushroom mini-farm there, everything can come out just fine!
I grow mushrooms in the basement of my private house. Substrate for
I form mushrooms from sawdust, straw, hay and rotted manure mixed with mycelium: per 100 kg -500-700 g. I add another 70 g of superphosphate, 40 g of saltpeter, 20 g of urea and 100 g of gypsum. Next, lay the mixture in boxes and moisturize. During the period of mycelium overgrowth (2-2,5 weeks), the temperature should be 22-25 (for which I put a heater nearby). Then] I lower it to 15-17 ″.
Oyster mushrooms I grow in polyethylene bags with a substrate of sunflower husks, buckwheat, wood shavings. Mushrooms appear in slots made from the sides. Every 6 months I change the substrate to fresh.
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Neighbors apartment building were not against my idea to break in the basement of a small garden, and I, fencing a corner there myself, I started creating the necessary conditions for plants.
Walls and ceiling cleared of dirt, fungi, mold, whitened lime with copper vitriol. For illumination, phytolamps and daylight lamps were used. At 1 sq. M. m area should account for not less than 1 kW of lighting power.
He hung a hygrometer (for humidity measurement) and a thermometer (for temperature control). And still, arranging a garden in the basement, you need to make a choice between earth mixtures or hydroponics. Personally, I like the cultivation of crops on nutrient solutions, since it does not need to drag heavy bags of soil into the basement, disinfect it and change it every season.
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Oyster midsummer
Oyster mushrooms are not cheap on the market. So I decided to try to grow them myself.
First I prepared a substrate for mushrooms - finely chopped straw. Then acquired a mycelium. It is dangerous to buy such a product from the first comer, because you cannot determine the quality of mushroom material by eye, it can only be evaluated after a long time. Therefore, it is important that the seller is responsible.
Before applying the mycelium to the substrate, I properly moistened the straw (when water is squeezed from it), laid it on wooden boxes and
well rammed. For the mycelium made in the substrate fovea depth 4-5 cm at a distance of 20-25 cm from one another. The "sown" boxes were covered with a film and carried into a shed.
Approximately a month later, he removed the film and carried the boxes to the greenhouse so that they would be well illuminated by the sun. Regularly watered through a fine sprinkler and constantly ventilated the greenhouse to avoid high humidity and the appearance of mold.
My first plantation of veshenok gave a good harvest, so I do not buy any more mushrooms in the market.
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In the spring I planted a "plantation" of oyster mushrooms: I bought a mycelium and, as I told you in one of the garden gardens and (maybe in yours, I do not remember), I loaded seven 70-centimeter pigs into them, dug them in a row to the ground. Now I have already removed the first small crop, and there are new fusions of mushrooms. Tell me, please, whether it is necessary to remove fruit bodies for the winter and hide somehow logs?
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Neither one nor the other do not need. Firstly, the oyster mushroom does not die, freezing, and in the winter thaw a little bit continues to grow. And absolutely winter hardy. So, having arrived in the winter at the dacha, you can visit your plantation and, if you do not hide it "seriously", chop off a cluster of frozen mushrooms and prepare a dinner from the winter harvest! In this sense, oyster is one of the few fungi that allows such tricks.
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"Silent Hunt" in the ... greenhouse!
It’s a pleasure to someone to pick mushrooms, and flour for me. Well
I do not like these annoying mosquitoes, and health is no longer that. to wander in circles in the forest. That is why for many years I have been growing them in my small greenhouse, set in a place shaded by birches. Mycelium (in other words, mycelium) brought many years ago from the forest. I looked, where more white mushrooms grew, and dug up the earth with squares of 50 × 50 cm, a depth of 20 cm.
In unprepared soil, planting mycelium is useless, it needs to create special conditions. I mixed 15 buckets of horse manure, 2 kg of gypsum, 2 kg of lime, 1 kg of urea. He added a few piles of cereal straw, which, by the way, can be replaced with dry leaves of trees. Distributed the resulting land evenly through the greenhouse and left "ripen" for 2 weeks. Once in three days, the artificial soil was watered and mixed. Then the well-moistened soil was lifted with a shovel, and at a depth of 4 cm laid squares with mycelium. In the places where I put my mycelium, I made holes with a thick finger for air access. When a white coating appeared on the surface of the earth, he sprinkled it with a friable humus. Regularly, but moderately watered. And about a week later the first mushrooms appeared.
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Going to the forest for mushrooms is an exciting activity, but often, especially if there is dry, hot weather, a “quiet hunt” is unsuccessful. In order not to be left without mushrooms, I have long and successfully grown oyster mushroom in the country.
For mushrooms, I have adapted the basement of the cottage. The hole for ventilation was covered with a fine mesh, installed fluorescent lamps and a heater. First he raised oyster mushrooms from ready-made blocks, which he bought from a friend of the farmer. And then I decided to make the mushroom blocks myself. As a substrate, he took the corn cobs and straw. For a start, I sterilized the "filler". Chopped cobs flooded with hot water (70-75 °), insisted for 24 hours, drained off water and again strewed with boiling water. After the substrate
it cooled down, squeezed out excess moisture with a press, and then layered it with mycelium in plastic bags (b cm of substrate - 0,5-1 cm of mycelium). Having tied a bag, he made small holes at the bottom - perforation. On the surface of the bag, I made cuts 1-1,5 cm long and hung the resulting mushroom block.
A month and a half with the help of a heater maintained the air temperature 25 °. During this period included lamps at 8 hours per day. Once the mycelium has grown well, I lowered the temperature to 17 ° (switched off the heating). At the same time, the air humidity increased to 90%. I used to spray concrete walls with water, now I'm experimenting with an air humidifier. Within two weeks the oyster mushrooms rise, and I gradually harvest.
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It is not difficult to grow an oyster, it would be a mycelium. Independently without the relatively complex equipment it can not be grown, and the attempt to "introduce" oyster mushrooms on hams prescribed by the stump is rather doubtful. At least, I tried to do this around the dacha, but the mushrooms appeared only after three years, and then in a completely different place.
I readily admit that mycelium can not be bought in your village, but in a large city it is not uncommon at any garden store. To write out a mycelium it is possible and by mail. And when you do, do it.
First, prepare churochki, any (oyster mushroom, in general, anyway, what kind of wood "is", it grows even on old wooden chairs, exposed on the street), but better alder, maple or fake. 0.5 m long and thick with an adult's hand. Shoot them in the form of the letter "X" for two and in some shady place (in the thick of raspberry, between sheds, etc.), put in a line, pre-drilling holes in them with a diameter of 8-10 mm every 7 cm.
Now mycelium. Take out the contents of the package, crush it with your hands and mix it with sawdust from those chicken to which you will mushrooms to settle. Now moisten this mass of slightly sweetened (a teaspoon of sugar on 5 l) with warm water, fill it with holes in drilled logs (do not fill very tightly) and cover the holes with clay. Now cover the entire "bed" with an old film. The sun should not enter here, and the chocks should not dry up completely: occasionally sprinkle them with rainwater.
In the middle of summer, the film can be removed: a qualitative mycelium will already begin to "eat" the chump, and in August and September, you can wait for the first harvest.
Fructify such a plantation will be about three years, and the second or third year is more abundant.
Collect mushrooms and can be in winter - freezing, fruit bodies do not perish, as well. thawing, start to grow again! After three years, the wood will be eaten, and we will have to start all over again. And because of illegibility in food predilections veshen-ki be careful when you fuss with her so as not to find her hat on the house or on the porch of the shed somehow. For fruit trees do not be afraid - on live trees this mushroom does not live.
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Mushrooms in the chicken coop
On our summer cottage there is an old chicken coop. We did not use this building in any way, although it is quite solid. And recently, I got the idea to grow mushrooms in the country. I think this chicken coop is the perfect place to realize my idea. What conditions are required for growing mushrooms (champignons or oyster mushrooms) and where can I get material for their propagation?
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Champignons are suitable for cool and humid rooms, they are undemanding to light. They can also grow in open ground - in the shade of trees. First of all, it is necessary to prepare the substrate. To manure (50 kg), it is better to horse manure, you need to add gypsum (11-13 kg), lime (11-13 kg), straw (100 kg), urea (1,5 kg). This mixture is watered and covered with a film. Maturation of the substrate will last 16-20 days. When the smell of ammonia disappears, it is folded into a permanent place. After about 2-3 weeks, the mycelium grows by 3-5 cm. During this period, 2-4 cm of nutritious soil must be applied on top of the substrate and periodically watered through sprinkling. The first mushrooms should appear in 40-50 days.
Oyster mushrooms are grown under approximately the same conditions, but instead of a substrate, log blanks or hardwood sticks are used without signs of rot, but stale. Propagating material - spores or mycelium - are often sold in specialized stores.
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For mushrooms - to the garden!
I am an inveterate mushroom picker, but there is not enough time to hike in the forest. So he decided to get mushrooms in his own garden.
At the end of the summer he brought several birch, oak and aspen logs with a diameter of 30-40 cm to the site. He sawed them into chickens, which he dug in the most shady places of the garden, bearing in mind that mushrooms do not like sunlight.
On the upper edges of the hemp made cuts or nicks with an ax, several times abundantly watered them with rain water, in which I wet the hats of large furs during the day. He also laid out the hats himself on the stumps. In the evenings, he systematically moistened the mushroom "beds". About a year later I gathered the first harvest. Carefully cut them with a sharp knife to the very bottom.
On some stumps, mold developed over time. They had to be burned. And the rest of the stumps have "fruited" for several years in a row.
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The soil after growing champignons is a valuable organic fertilizer, which may be better than chernozem in its parameters, because straw, chicken manure, superphosphate, urea, chalk and gypsum are most often used to prepare the substrate to create acidity in 6,5-7,5. I have not met scientifically grounded recommendations on the use of waste soil and its exact characteristics, but I assume that it contains many biologically active substances: vitamins, amino acids, enzymes, etc. The best way to use it is to pour in 0,5 l in the wells when cabbage is planted , watermelon, pumpkin. Such a primer can also be made for digging (4-5 kg per 1 sq.m).
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I have been doing mycelium of oyster mushroom mycelium for several years, and I have brought unsuitable products for sale to my dacha. In addition to this organics, I do not use any organic or inorganic fertilizers anymore - I also get good harvests of vegetables, fruits and berries. In the spring I walk on a carpet of oyster mushrooms, and after digging, the ground receives excellent organic top dressing. Therefore, I advise you to dig the site again and plant a culture, for example, a pumpkin that loves organics, and in this way to cope with competitors.
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If you look carefully, the fruit body of the cannabis grows not at all on the ground, but on some branch hidden in the litter. The mushroom pickup has the property of engaging in "reconnaissance of the surroundings", releasing long lace-like "tentacles" in the litter. And when such a rhizome stumbles upon a suitable substrate - a fallen trunk, a stump or just a branch, it begins to form fruit bodies - mushrooms, which are no different from those collected on sheer wood, only their condition is usually much older. And it seems that mushrooms grew simply on the ground!
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Autumn sprouts grow on stumps and on fallen shafts; the branches. But sometimes there is a felling on the ground! Is this a mushroom anything? Can I eat it?
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The topic of edible fungi is very delicate, and, not being a special mycological edition, we do not consider the right to discuss it. We confine ourselves only to general considerations.
The edibility or inedibility of fungi has a strong shade of tradition, in addition to a purely medical aspect. So, many mlechniki, aged for the first time considered salting in us (redhead, freckle, etc.), are perceived in Europe as conditionally edible, and a black mushroom, a second-rate fungus, in Germany is valued above the white mushroom.
In Mordovia, salvoes are salted, and they are neglected by us, red fly agaric after special treatment is taken to the table in Bulgaria, and the Caesar mushroom, which you are most likely to frighten with its cursed appearance (you are unlikely to meet it north of the latitude of Kiev), in Southern Europe is revered second after the truffle.
Lepiote will get from 99 of 100 mushroom pickers, but it is deliciously unusual and just as terrible in appearance. I'm happy to collect dunki caps and eat them, and still alive, and many people twist their temples. Strictly speaking, the controversy on this topic will resemble the dispute of the mu-
edibility of red fly agaric, about it!
With Yudintseva, Rostov
a sulman and a Christian about the edibility of pork.
But a pallid grebe or spring fly agaric, even if not a complete profane, can easily be confused with some russules or ryadovkami, and the lethal outcome is guaranteed.
In fact, deadly poisonous mushrooms are few, and it's more difficult to die from poisoning than getting under the car.
But the insidiousness of the fungal toxins is that when they are not destroyed in heat treatment, they give off the symptoms of poisoning, when the time remains - sometimes a few hours.
So do not believe the “connoisseurs” who claim: cooked a dubious mushroom - sip a spoonful of broth and wait a couple of hours. If everything is okay, then burst ... It's not so simple. Specific problems in case of poisoning with gyrometrin, for example, which sometimes accumulate lines, appear after three (!) Days, when almost nothing is left of the liver. So eating a line is pure Russian roulette. Interesting substances contain pigs, and not all of them act, and not so immediately that thinking about how to bite
Yes, nephrosclerosis (often a fatal disease) has taken, they will not lead to anything. But only 8 years ago they bought a cottage, and in the next fishing line every autumn a sow is a sea ... And after all, I was not alone ...
A lot of tales about false apiaries, poderezinoikov, white. They have real ground only about white. The Satanic mushroom is very similar to it, but the bitterness - strychnine will seem honey! It's not poisonous, but after you have eaten a piece, you will spit for 24 hours.
With regard to other painful (blackheads, podberezoviki, boletus) it's more of a fairy tale. But under certain conditions in some seasons they can become if not poisonous, then toxic, and outwardly not differing in anything. Do not be scared: under the lightning strike get to much easier than to type such mushrooms. And armed with the rule that even a little bit of doubt when quiet hunting is inappropriate, you will eat mushrooms long and happily! .
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Repeatedly heard about the edibility of red mushroom. Please tell us about this!
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I bring a proven recipe for pickled mushrooms from a neighbor. I tried - any jar is eaten at a time - very tasty! You can pickle any mushrooms. The main thing is the purity of this procedure, almost sterility.
Mushrooms next door I clean my mushrooms, cut them into small pieces and soak in salt water for 30 minutes. Rinse and pour water again. Boil for 10 minutes, drain the water. Why such scrupulousness? To avoid botulism - a very dangerous disease.
For a marinade, I never use water after decoction of mushrooms. It is better to take care of yourself.
Marinade: 1 liters of clean water. I'm adding 3 cm. l. sugar (without top), 4 tsp. salt (without top), 1 tsp. vinegar 70% essence, spices to taste (bay leaf, dill umbrellas, sweet pepper, black pepper peas, cloves, 1 / 2 tsp ground cinnamon.) Marinade with mushrooms cook 10-15 min. from the moment of boiling,
The best for pickling are the mushrooms collected in autumn. They are smaller and stronger.
for 2 minutes until the end of cooking, I add another 1 tsp. acetic essences.
My banks and sterilize (or just wash and scald with boiling water). The neighbor, besides this, always dries the cans.
I spread the mushrooms to the banks, roll them up or spin them. Then I turn over the cans, wrap it in a newspaper, cover it with a warm blanket and leave it there for a day.
For a month, such pickled mushrooms can be eaten without any fear. If I open later, then to protect myself from botulism, boil mushrooms 15 min. Even if you have violated the technology, and a harmful microbe has been found in mushrooms, it will completely die by boiling. And the taste of mushrooms will not suffer.
Quick appetizer
This is a very fast way of pickling. For him, you can take any mushrooms, but it is better to pick different kinds of marinade separately from each other. Because, on
For example, the oily one darkens in the same dish with the boletus. And podberezoviki and podsinoviki reach the preparedness unevenly.
A quick snack can be enjoyed just three days after soaking the mushrooms in the marinade. But it will be stored, alas, only one month.
It will take: 0,7 kg of mushrooms, 3 laurel leaves, 5-6 clove buds, according to 2-3 sprigs of oregano, thyme, parsley, thyme, 1 / 3 glasses (70-80 ml) of wine white vinegar, 3 / 4 cup of raw water, 1 bulb, 1,5 tsp. ground sweet pepper, 1 cm. l. salt (sea or ordinary).
We sort any mushrooms (if necessary, clean), wash, if small, then leave whole, if large - cut into pieces. Onion thinly shred. My greens and spread it on the bottom of the can. Pre-sterilize the container.
Meanwhile, put the mushrooms in a pot and connect them with other ingredients (except for greenery). Bringing up to
boiling. After that, the fire is reduced and boiled for another 15 min.
Cool and lay out the contents of the cans along with the marinade, close with plastic covers. We store such "fast" mushrooms in the refrigerator.
Mushroom shish kebab
Mushrooms can be exactly the same as meat, marinate, string on skewers and cook shish kebabs. It turns out not at all worse, and even more fragrant!
We clean the mushrooms, wash them, put them in a bowl, salt, pepper and add mayonnaise. We mix everything. Add bay leaf and a few peas of allspice. Leave for 1 hour. String mushrooms on skewers or put on a wire rack, you can wrap in foil and bake on charcoal. The main thing is not to have a lot of heat. Mushrooms are cooked for about 10 minutes. Fast, easy, and most importantly - unusual!
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I heard more than once that you can plant mushrooms in your garden. I decided to start with the fish, they are the most unpretentious in terms of breeding.
And then we brought mushrooms from the forest. We selected small and krepenki for food and marinade, and large ones, with large hats, were taken to the garden, because even old and wormy mushrooms are suitable for planting. Then in a bucket of water I dissolved manganese (1 g per Yul water) and added 2-3 a handful of sugar (sugar is needed to increase future yields). I fill the mushrooms with a solution of potassium permanganate and knead them with my hands until I get a lot of consistency like liquid sour cream. I sustain it for an hour in the bucket, and then I proceed at once to sow the bulbs of the tulips, and to sow the mushrooms.
In the spring - a bouquet, in the fall - roast
Around the trunk of the apple tree and stumps from the formerly cut down old apple trees at a distance of 50-60 cm, I remove the top layer of soil with a shovel, I ground the forks with forks. In the soft loosened ground I plant deeper bulbs of tulips, level the soil. On top of the neat mug I pour the mushroom mass, evenly distributing it around stumps and apple trees. Then I return the removed soil to its former place, and I water abundantly with water: I consume at least 4-5 buckets per tree or stump. Water Lily
on the trunk so as not to erode the loose earth. I watered my crop once a week, if there was no rain. The following year, in the summer, she also watered 1-4 buckets once a week. I spend planting bulbs and sowing mushrooms between mid-September and mid-October, depending on the weather. In spring, tulips bloom around the stumps and apple trees, and in autumn, mushrooms come together in a friendly layer.
Flower growers recommend bulbs of tulips to excavate annually, but I do it only in 2 year, as it is 2 year that fruiting mycelium.
Under each aspen is a dodder!
In the same way, you can sow other mushrooms, such as white, poderezozovik, boletus, but only under the trees under which they grew in nature. If you take the seed material from under the oak and move it under the pine tree, then there will be no point, it will not take root. Now I want to experiment with white mushrooms. White mushroom loves light, moderately moist places, in the old dark forest it does not grow. Do not find it and there, where the hoof and fern, but with the usual narrow-leaved grass, it gets along well. I'm a fan of experiments, and you, fellow gardeners, do not be afraid of new ways. It is interesting!
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Once upon a time, I also looked suspiciously at the brown pimply piles and cones of morels and stitches. But somehow in the spring very much wanted fresh mushrooms, and just went morels. They did not even go, but, you can tell, they blew! Then I told myself that there are no bad foods, and there are only improperly cooked. He collected morels, cooked them with observance of all security measures and was satisfied. Now I every
zones I collect the first mushrooms! First I clean them, then chop, then rinse. Then boil - exactly 3 times - in a large amount of water. Each time, these mushrooms must be boiled for at least 15 minutes, and - this is also a prerequisite - each time to change the water. After the third boil, rinse thoroughly again and then send it to the soup pot or pan.