Condensation and cracks on windows - how to get rid of them?
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7 WAYS TO GET RID OF CONDENSATE ON WINDOW GLASS
В frost fogs up even modern windows, and at normal relative humidity in the apartment. It is unprofitable to install warmer double-glazed windows, and dry air causes discomfort. We will tell you how to reduce the likelihood of condensation forming on windows
At room temperature 22 ° C and relative humidity 55%, the dew point value is about 12,5 ° C, and if it gets cold outside -20 ° C, the internal glass of a conventional double-glazed unit will start to fog. In the kitchen, where humidity often reaches 65%, the process will begin even with moderate frosts (about -9 ° C). In order not to look at the world through the turbid glass, the latter must be blown with warm air, as in a car, however it is desirable to dispense with natural convection, because no fan works silently.
Installing a narrow window sill
Typically, the window sill deflects the upward flow of air heated by the battery away from the window. But, as practice shows, with good heating and installation of a window sill up to 150 mm wide in central Russia, condensation does not form even on single-chamber double-glazed windows
Perforating the windowsill
If the width of the window sill exceeds 300 mm (and in the northern regions-200 mm), a series of air holes should be made in it, for example round ones of diameter 15-20 mm, arranged in increments of 30-40 mm. More aesthetic long and narrow rectangular slots, covered with metal grilles.
Window sills with perforations are easier to order in production. In principle, it is possible to purchase grids separately (they are offered, for example, by Ventokey, Service Industries, etc.) and to cut them on the site, but this equipment and skill are needed for such refinement.
See also: Installing the supply valve with your own hands (+ photo)
Installation of a sill with a ventilation gap
This method is used mainly in old houses with thick walls, where the window is strongly biased towards the street.
The window sill is installed on supports (for example, made of antiseptic wood) with a height of about 30-up to mm, and not close to the lower profile of the window frame, but with an indent (also 30-40 mm, then the gap is closed with a narrow lattice).
When fixing the board, the glue or mounting foam is applied so that there are channels for air flow, and the battery is decorated with a convection screen guiding the flow into the ventilation gap.
Mounting of a stone window sill
Products made of natural marble and granite, as well as quartz agglomerate have a high thermal conductivity and, warming up from the bottom of the battery, form an ascending airflow that blows the glass.
However, it is necessary that the overall width of the board does not exceed 350 mm, and its fragment (at least 150 mm) must hang over the battery.
For acrylic stone, this principle works much worse.
Electrically heated window sill
With thick walls, a section of self-regulating heating cable can be inserted into the adhesive layer under the stone window sill, calculated approximately 150 W of power at 1 m2 window sill.
This solution should be provided during the installation of electrical wiring: external cable channels are unlikely to decorate the modern interior. Another inconvenience: you have to carefully monitor the outdoor temperature, in order to turn on the heating in time, or equip the system with automation.
В A wide window sill made of wood or wood-polymer composite should be cut openings. The built-in convector in the floor perfectly manages the condensate, but if the window is strongly moved to the side of the street during installation, the bottom of the glass in the frost will still be misted.
Installation of a built-in convector
This costly and time-consuming method is used mainly in cottages. Convectors, the cost of which starts from 18 thousand rubles, are both water and electric; they are produced by companies EVA, Mohlenhoff, Purmo, etc. The devices are mounted in the floor before pouring the screed, and the height of the latter should be from 60 mm. Models built into the windowsill (the so-called parapet) are much less common.
Electrical glass heating
Double-glazed windows with heated glass have recently competed with convectors. The first are durable (the service life is not less than 10 years), they are safe (the conductive heating layer is inside the chamber) and do not need to change the design of the floor. However, this solution will cost even more: 1 m2 glazing costs at least 20 thousand rubles, besides, unlike the convector, the window with electric heating is not able to take on the function of heating.
Reference by topic: Reflective insulation on windows
BASIC METHODS OF PROVIDING CONVECTIVE GLASS WELDING
The narrow window sill does not interfere with the warm air rising from the radiator to blow the glass (a). With a large width of the sill board, air ducts are laid under it (6) or air vents are cut into it ()
© Author: Vladimir Grigoryev
NOTE: CHAPTERS IN WINDOWS – HOW TO GET RID OF THEM?
Heat loss through cracks in windows is evil, but it can be combated.
From Figure 1-6 you can see what is usually done for this. And before replacing old windows with new ones, weigh the pros and cons, evaluate the need for drastic actions.
Suddenly it turns out that a simple cosmetic repair will completely solve your problems.
First you should check the quality of the seams between the wall and the window.
Small cracks are sealed with elastic putty, and the loose putty is removed. The wide gaps are stuffed with thermal insulation material or filled with polyurethane foam.
The folds of the frame are also loose. What to do in this case is shown in Fig. 1 and 2. If the shutters themselves freeze, they are sheathed with boards.
- Use of sealing mass. The mass is applied to the fold, covered with plastic wrap and smoothed with your finger. Then the window is closed for about a day until the mass hardens.
- Installation of sealing profile. In this case, a sealing profile made of porous rubber is glued into the frame rebate from the inside. Thanks to the Y-shaped section, the profile perfectly resists any wind.
- In modern houses, double-glazed windows are already used, consisting of two glasses hermetically connected to each other. This type of glazing has good thermal insulation properties, but not very good sound insulation properties.
- A double-sash window has two sashes connected to each other by screws or by means of special devices of various designs. To wash the shutters you have to separate them. The space between the two glasses provides good insulation.
- A double sash window is similar to a double sash window. But both doors are mounted in such a way that no thermal or sound bridges are formed between them. Has very good insulating properties.
- An ideal window for sound insulation, consisting of an outer sash with double glazing and an inner sash with single glazing made of thin or thick glass. Expensive, but great solution!
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
Below other entries on the topic "How to make your own hands - a householder!"
- Do-it-yourself protection on the window from children
- Window-balcony - montage by own hands
- Clypeus-amulet for the window with your own hands (photo + scheme)
- Condensation on the windows - how to fix the situation and get rid of it?
- We paint the window before installation (installation) in the bath
- How to install dormer windows by yourself - photos of replacement works and instructions
- Mounting the roller shutter with your own hands (photo)
- Setting the window to the pediment
- Do-it-yourself "stone" window sill (colour) - master class
- Condensation and cracks on windows - how to get rid of them?
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A couple of years ago, new windows were installed in the house, and now there is strong condensation. Why is this happening?
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If condensation occurs immediately after the installation of windows, then the reason may be the wrong choice of glass unit. In residential premises, it is better to install 3-chamber double-glazed windows, and leave inexpensive 2-chamber windows for cold balconies and loggias.
If condensation occurs in the very first winter, then it is likely that everyday mistakes were made when installing the window. For example, there are gaps between the wall and the frame. Penetrating there, the cold street air provokes fogging of the windows. Poor-quality fittings may also be the reason, due to which the sashes do not fit tightly to the frame.
If the problem occurs in the second or third year after the installation of windows, then first of all, the fittings are revised (it may need to be adjusted) and the rubber seal on the windows (it could have worn out).
To prevent the appearance of condensation, plastic windows require regular maintenance. The moving parts of the fittings are lubricated, the screws are adjusted if necessary, and the sealant is lubricated twice a year (in autumn and spring) with universal silicone greases or compounds that soften the rubber and extend its service life. The worn-out seal is changed.
Sometimes the reason for the formation of condensation is the wrong installation of the window sill, blackout curtains or insufficient heating. Try to keep the warm air from the radiator to the glass unobstructed, and you may be able to get rid of wet drops on the glass with minimal effort.
A. KOLOMOYTSEV, foreman for the maintenance of PVC windows
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Three main factors affect the formation of condensation on windows:
- cold air outside:
- high humidity in the room;
- double glazing with poor thermal insulation.
Also, the accumulation of condensate on the windows can be the result of improper installation of radiators (radiators). If they are located away from windows, completely get rid of the "window crying" will not work.
The absence of exhaust or clogging, and consequently, poor ventilation of the room.
How to fix the problem
1. The first thing you need to check the hood and if there is a blockage to clean the channels. If there is no hood, air the room regularly.
2. If there are pots with flowers on the windowsills, they should be removed, as the plants also emit moisture.
3. A fan heater installed on the windowsill or a heater placed near the window will help to dry the “tears” on the windows.
By the way
Here are some popular ways to combat condensate.
Place a lighted thick decorative candle on the windowsill.
At least once a week, wipe the glass with a rag dipped in vinegar.
You can wipe the windows with a solution of medical glycerin and pure alcohol (proportion of 1: 20). This procedure should be performed once per 15 days.
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We have an unheated kitchen in the house, which we warm up only during severe frosts, so that there would be a small temperature plus. Nevertheless, the windows in this room are constantly wet, and the walls are moldy. How to avoid this?
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Your case perfectly illustrates the indisputable laws of physics, which are already described in the school course: when steam from a boiling kettle settles on the wall and dew “runs” along it. In the same way, water vapor, which is inevitably present in the air of your home and in a heated kitchen, immediately settles on cold windows and walls. Moisture from them condenses in the form of dewdrops, while the wall is saturated with moisture (which it does not really need, but ultimately harms). This happens regardless of what material the wall is made of. There is no miracle to be expected. Either you will not heat the kitchen at all, or you will have to conscientiously warm the room. And outside. In addition, ventilation should be arranged. It will help to carry away air with water vapor, then moisture will not settle on windows or walls. But the price for this issue is the idle heated air that goes into the ventilation system, simultaneously cooling your kitchen. But there’s nothing to choose from.