Hexagonal arbor in the country house with your own hands (+ detailed drawings)
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How we built a wooden gazebo at the dacha with our own hands
Learn at school, learn at school, learn at school ...
And although the ideas of beauty are different for everyone (this, by the way, is also affected by material prosperity), I will not be mistaken if I say that the most optimal design of the arbor is the hexagonal tent: the internal volume of the room can be used with great convenience (especially with the influx of guests) than with an ordinary tetrahedron.
The trick is how to correctly calculate the foundation of such a structure. So I want to share our little experience building a hexagonal gazebo.
It was in 2005 at the summer cottage of my brother Stanislav, who lives near Kiev. His possessions are small - only eight hundred parts, but not far from the forest and there is no mention of any city bustle. They were preparing to celebrate his 45th anniversary. And then the question arose in all its glory: “And where will we“ sit ”?”
The best way out is in the gazebo. So, we need to build. Based on the above reasoning, we decided on its form. Then they began to decide with the materials. Of course, it would be best to weld the frame from metal pipes: the design would be airy, light and durable.
See also: Construction of a gazebo with your own hands
But in the horticulture there are no specialists who can perform such a job quickly and efficiently, nor the corresponding electric welding equipment. And besides all this is not cheap.
We decided to build our wooden hexagonal pavilion of the economy class from the remaining lumber.
And here we have already come close to preparing the drawing and calculations. But in the beginning there is a bit of theory. So, from the course of school geometry it is known that if we construct the axes of the coordinates X and Y with the center of intersection at the point O, draw the circle R by radius R and make the intersections with this radius and draw through them mini-segments, then we obtain a regular hexagon with sides equal to the length radius R.
We decided that the optimal dimensions of our gazebo will be at a radius of 1,75 m. 1 this hexagon is shown in red. In addition, after some estimates, we came to the conclusion that if you put on the inner perimeter benches of a width 0,4 m and length 1,4 m, then each of them can comfortably accommodate two people. Therefore, in such a gazebo, 12 people can easily fit. These theoretical calculations suited us perfectly.
On one plate
We chose a free place between a country house and a well. The entrance to the gazebo (side AB in Fig. 1) was planned so that the sun rising in the morning illuminated it. Then they set about preparing the foundation. The soil on the site is sandy and the depth of the fertile layer is small, only 10-12 cm. After removing it, the area was leveled in a circle with a radius of 2 m. To mark the foundation, we took a wooden plank 2000x50x30 mm and hammered two 150 mm nails into the ends: one for a fixed fixing the bar in the center of the future circle, and the second became a "marker" (Fig. 2). We drew a circle of the desired radius and built a hexagon. Around the perimeter of ABCDEF, a formwork of edged boards of 2000x80x30 mm was placed, placing them on the edge. In each corner of the hexagon, according to the template made of plywood, metal pins-anchors 40 cm long were hammered for fastening on them bearing racks from a beam of 100 × 100 mm. The depth of anchoring is 25 cm. 15 cm remained above the surface, of which 7 cm were supposed to be concreted, and 8 cm were left for mounting the supporting posts on them (Fig. 3).
Now the next important point: around the gazebo, a blind area is necessary to protect the entire structure from flooding by meltwater, rain and moisture that occurs when watering flowers planted around the perimeter (flowerbeds surrounding the arbor are also an indispensable attribute of this building). We decided to cast the blind area out of concrete - this is more durable.
Moreover, we poured both it and the platform under the arbor at the same time - we got a homogeneous concrete pillow without joints, which could serve as places of faults over time.
Used concrete grade M300 (on a bucket of cement - a bucket of sand and gravel). The thickness of the plate came out about 5-7 cm. In total, the filling area is 11 square meters. m, we needed 0,75 cubic meters. m solution.
Next to the intended anchorage of the support post A on the left side, a metal pipe was poured and poured with concrete so that the pipe protruded above the surface of the bay at 250-300 mm (Figure 4). Through it, we stretched the corrugation and inserted a wire in it for the gazebo lighting device. Filled with concrete pad covered with a film and left for two days to allow the cement to better grasp and gain strength.
The arbor grows
Now about the preparation and installation of the bearing racks and the lower strapping. For the first, we used an edging bar length 2300-2400 mm. The ends of the workpieces were chamfered, so they had to be detached with a circular saw, aligned along the length of 2150 mm and marked the places for the grooves of the upper, middle and lower strapping.
For fastening on anchors at the lower end of each carrier, holes were drilled with a diameter of 8 mm to a depth of protruding anchor pins 90-100 mm long. Having installed the prepared load-bearing racks on the anchors and placing them vertically, we started to conduct the lower strapping using an edged beam with dimensions of 1750x100x50 mm. In the grooves it was fastened with self-tapping screws 4,2 × 90 mm and metal corners (Fig. 5). To ensure waterproofing, strips of roofing material were placed under the lower harness. And to carry out two middle strands, a beam of 1750x50x50 mm was used. For the upper trim - planed trim boards 1750x160x40 mm.
See also: Gazebo with own hands for summer residence - photos, drawings and order of construction
Roof gazebo on the ground
It's time to talk about the most complex and tricky "node" - the rafter system with a central lock and the method of attaching it to the racks. Professional woodworkers know how difficult it is to tie together the elements of a tent hexagonal roof. We succeeded only thanks to the effective assistance of our neighbor in the country, Alexander, who came at our call not only with good advice, but also brought his own working tools and fixing materials (
launched construction nails with dimensions of 6 × 200 mm and 8 × 300 mm). He suggested that the upper harness and the rafter system itself with a central lock be prepared on the ground, since below it is more convenient to adjust the details of the central lock, align the rafters and, most importantly, choose the correct trimming angle for the rafters.
We made rafters from planed timber of 2080x80x50 mm. The central lock of the rafter system was made in the form of a hexagonal prism from a bar 200x120x120 mm (Fig. 6). To attach the rafters to the hexagonal prism, we used pads that themselves were made of galvanized iron roofing (Fig. 7). The upper plate was attached to the hexagonal prism strictly in the center with a 4,2 × 90 mm self-tapping screw. The lining petals were attached to the upper part of the rafters with two 3,5 × 32 mm self-tapping screws and a 6 × 200 mm construction nail. If the height of the rafter system is 900-1000 mm, then the trimming angles of the rafters will be: in the upper part - at an angle of 60 °, and in the lower part, which is attached through the upper harness to the supporting racks - at an angle of 30 ° (Fig. 8).
When using 6 × 200 mm and 8 × 300 mm construction nails for fixing rafters, it is recommended to first drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm and 8 mm, which will avoid splitting both rafters and load-bearing racks.
Well, a general view of the assembled system can be seen in Fig. 9. After we all mounted it, we started roofing. A corrugated slate was used as a roofing material, using a grinder to file suitable triangular pieces. Nailed them with special nails. Then, strips of 25 cm wide and 2 m long were cut out of galvanized iron roofing, covering them at the junction of slate pieces. Polycarbonate can also be used for roofing. Such material is fastened with special roofing screws with dimensions of 3,8 × 38 mm or 4,8 × 46 mm.
Advantages and disadvantages
It remains only to build a shell skeleton gazebo. The material used was the remnants of a sheet pile lining 2100x96x12 mm (Figure 10 and 11). Mount this clapboard can be metal staples using a stapler.
We used cloves of 2,0 × 32 mm and universal screws (they usually differ from the rest in yellowish color) 3,5 × 30 mm. The lining was sawn with an electric jigsaw, making blanks of two sizes: 500 and 750 mm long.
It was covered with a special transparent varnish for outdoor work, and the racks and benches were painted brown. The electrical wiring was switched on, which is switched on via the automatic electronic switch type TDM 1f 6A. Now you can stay in the summerhouse in the dark evening.
After that our building was ready to receive guests. The anniversary of his brother was celebrated there in a big way. Everyone had room, everyone was comfortable. But the further exploitation of the gazebo revealed two of its main drawbacks: in the rainy windy weather it began to rain the benches, there was a strong draft. To eliminate them, we decided to put on the sides of FE, ED and DC window frames with glasses. They used frames, which they put in the summer cottage for the winter period. We also installed window sills along the entire perimeter (this can be seen in figure 11), which were made from a planed edging board 1750x150x30 mm.
To make it easier for readers to consolidate all the information, I have compiled a general table with end-to-end designations affixed to all the figures given.
See also: Gazebo with own hands (photo) - strong and beautiful
DIY gazebo - detailed drawings and dimensions
Np / n |
Construction Materials |
Size mm |
Quantity |
1 |
Trim panel for lower strapping |
1 = 1750x100x50 |
6 |
2 |
Metal Anchor |
d = 8 mm, I = 400 |
6 |
3 |
Support stand, timber |
1 = 2150x100x100 |
6 |
4 |
Medium beam |
1 = 1750x50x50 |
6 |
5 |
Window sill - edged board |
1 = 1750x150x30 |
6 |
6 |
Window frame with glass |
2000 × 750 |
3 |
7 |
Strapping, beams |
1 = 1750x50x50 |
6 |
8 |
Strapping, beams |
1 = 1750x50x50 |
6 |
9 |
Sliced planks for the top harness |
1 = 1850x150x30 |
6 |
10 |
Rafters, beams |
1 = 2150x80x50 |
6 |
11 |
Roofing material, slate |
S=1,6 sq.m. |
6 |
12 |
Evrovagonka S = 13 sq.m. |
1 = 2100x96x15 |
65 |
13 |
Bench of two boards |
1 = 1400x150x40 |
12 |
14 |
8-face prism c. of the castle |
1 = 200x120x120 |
1 |
15 |
Metal corner |
50x50x2 |
10 |
16 |
Metal overlay |
d = 350 |
1 |
17 |
Building nails |
I = 300 and I = 200 |
16 |
18 |
Self-tapping screws |
3,5 × 40 |
500 |
19 |
Ruberoid |
1 = 1750 × 100 |
6 |
20 |
Concrete of the brand M300, cu. m |
0,7 |
|
21 |
Varnish for outdoor works |
1 |
© Author: Andrey Grigor'evich Belgorod
HEXAGONAL GAZEBORES OWN HANDS - TIPS AND CONSTRUCTIONS FROM READERS
HEXAGONAL HAPPINESS AT THE DACHA
We decided to place our gazebo closer to the house, so that it would be more convenient to set the table.
We were lucky to buy a cheaper frame. The rest was finalized by ourselves, giving it a unique character.
Under the "nature"
The gazebo is hexagonal, 3 × 4 m in size, each side is 1, 7 m. The foundation was made on piles so that the air could walk under the floor and the tree would last longer. All parts of the structure were covered in two layers with brown wood impregnation with preservation of the texture (4 cans of 5 liters were needed). This will extend the service life of the gazebo by an order of magnitude.
For more comfort on windy days, the lower part of the building was sewn up with flat slate. They cut it to size, covered it with white facade paint and attached it to the inside of the structure.
The window openings were left open (it is possible that we will warm them over time).
The ceiling was made of lining, painted with white wood impregnation. A roofing made of flexible shingles was laid on an OSB-board substrate: the lightest was chosen so that the load on the rafter system was minimal. The roof attracted aesthetically, and there was less waste during construction. Themselves cut out the corners of the desired size from it.
Benches were installed around the perimeter in the gazebo, and a hexagonal table in the center.
Plant decor for a hexagonal gazebo
The idea of decorating the space near the gazebo was special - at the same time I wanted to hide the hatch from the well, as well as to fence off the plants from neighbors and create a favorable atmosphere around the building, to give this place coziness and warmth.
I closed the hatch with unpretentious fast-growing perennials: hosts, badan, daylilies. Treelike hydrangea and willow Hakuro Ni-shiki - the fastest growing shrubs, very decorative and unpretentious - became the "highlight of the program". As a hedge along the neighbor's fence, I will plant Brabant thuja in order to form a wall with a haircut (for comparison: Smaragd will not give such an effect). And climbing roses and viburnum will create the mood at the gazebo.
Rural zest
A highlight is a chandelier made from a cart wheel. They hunted for a suitable one for a long time, until they found it in an old clothing market in another city. They brought it to the site and first cleaned the wheel of paint residues. Then the wooden part was treated with brown wood impregnation. The rim and bolts are enamelled over a chocolate rust. We installed LED bulbs under the retro: 4 on top and one glowing at the bottom (the caps were attached to self-tapping screws, the black PVA 2 × 1,5 wire was fixed with nails). To hang the chandelier, a chain, carabiners and hooks were used. A swing mount was installed at the very top of the dome.
© Author: Veronika PUGACH, author of the blog garden_by, Minsk
HEXAGONAL GAZEBOR OWN HANDS - VIDEO
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
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