The better the seeds are treated before planting - warm or cold?
Presowing seed preparation - is it warm or cold?
Is it warm to you, seed?
I once read that for better growth and increased yield, the seeds of vegetables must be heated before sowing. However, in nature, the seeds are formed in the heat, and then before the shoots undergo winter cold treatment. So what about better for seeds - warm or cold? I decided to find out by experience.
CUCUMBERS
Experience started with cucumbers. Separated the seeds into 2 parts. I put one in the refrigerator and kept the other in the room. In the spring before planting, house seeds warmed, took out a batch from the refrigerator and sowed (without germination). The warmed seeds went up to 2 days before those stored in the cold, quickly went into growth.
By the beginning of flowering, it turned out that the plants from the "cold" seeds laid the first flowers exclusively for women - with the "cucumber", and the plants from the seeds that went through heating first formed only male flowers - empty flowers.
Thus, in plants with female flowers, if there were no plants with male flowers nearby, pollination would not occur. In the future, the flowering leveled, on all plants there were both female and male flowers, but the cucumbers from the warmed seeds gave less fruit, although the blossoms were abundant (there were more male flowers).
Now I grow cucumbers from "cold" seeds, but next I necessarily plant one plant from a warm seed.
See also: Seed treatment and preparation for sowing
ROOTS
When cold-processing the seeds of carrots and beets, I discovered that a few plants appeared that threw a flower arrow. The root crop of such a plant will not go into food - dry, woody. Earlier, I generally didn’t notice that beets in the first year of sowing go into the arrow, while carrots sometimes appear such plants during winter sowing. Root crops grown from “cold” seeds seemed harder to me than those obtained from “warm” ones. I don’t store any more root vegetables in the refrigerator.
GARLIC
Once I was late with buying garlic for planting for the winter, I had to leave it for storage until
spring. I selected 30 large denticles and divided into 3 batch. Each lot was sealed in an envelope and placed two of them in the refrigerator (on the lower shelf), and left a third lot in the room.
In the spring of the "warm" teeth suitable for planting were only 3 (7 rotted). From the refrigerator threw 2 denticle, and from the freezer-and one. After planting, the teeth from the freezer did not want to germinate. Then I dug one of them. The frozen garlic was killed.
By autumn, the remaining teeth gave normal bulbs with large denticles. But the plants from the "warm" denticles gave the bulbs whole, without dividing them into denticles. I concluded that it is better to plant winter garlic in the fall or keep it until spring on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.
BOW
After harvesting, I usually immediately picked up small bulbs for planting in the spring, put them in boxes and put them on the floor in the house. It is cool there, and the bulbs were well preserved, but in the spring they went off the arrow. Pulling the bow once again, I noticed that in one box the bulbs did not dry out enough. I put this box on the bake - the protrusion from the chimney on the top of the stove. I remembered about it only in the spring when landing. The “onion” bulbs did not give arrows at all, they grew larger and with a large number of turnips in the nest. Since then, I store all the seed onions until planted warm on the stove.
POTATOES
In the spring the potato tubers are vernalized. But I learned that to increase the yield they should be placed on 10 days in the cold. In the second half of May, at night, the air temperature rarely rises above 5 °, and during the day it rises within 10-15 °. Half of the boxes with seed potatoes, lying on vernalization for 20 days, I took out into the barn.
The potato tubers that had been in the dark and cold climbed two days later, but later grew and developed normally, did not stand out from the general field. In autumn, after harvesting, I did not notice the difference in productivity. However, almost every plant of "cold" potatoes hung a brush of green fruit, while the rest of the potatoes did not have them. I did not frost more potatoes.
See also: Device for processing seed potatoes by electric current
WHICH SEEDS NEED COLD, AND WHICH - HEAT
Cold processing of seeds to increase productivity has been known since ancient times among peasants in Russia, who at the end of February for three days exposed even morning cereal grains (wheat, rye, barley, oats) for planting for three days in the morning frost. Even then, they knew about the effect of cold on seeds to increase the reproductive organs of plants (reproductive organs - fruits), that is, to increase productivity.
I have done a lot of experiments in the garden, with the results of some of them and I want to share.
cucumbers
The seeds of cucumbers intended for spring sowing, divided into two lots and put one batch in storage in the refrigerator, the other at room temperature. In the spring before sowing, the seeds stored in the room warmed up. All seeds sown at the same time, without first germinating. Heated seeds sprouted two days earlier than the seeds stored in the refrigerator, energetically went to growth. Seedlings from the refrigerator slowed down in growth, as if saving energy for something else.
By the beginning of flowering, it turned out that the plants from seeds stored in the refrigerator laid the first flowers exclusively for women - “with a cucumber”, and the plants from seeds that went through heating laid the first flowers for men — empty flowers. Thus, in plants with female flowers, if there were no plants nearby with male flowers, pollination would not have occurred and the fruits would not have started. In the future, flowering was leveled, female and male flowers appeared on all plants, but cucumbers from warmed fruit seeds yielded less, although they bloomed profusely.
After this experience, I grow cucumbers only from seeds treated with cold in the fridge, but always plant a plant from a heated seed next to it.
Roots
I tried to process the seeds of carrots and beets when cold stored in a refrigerator. And I discovered that from such seeds there were single plants that threw out a flower arrow. The root crop of such a plant is not suitable for food - dry, woody. In beetroot, I had never seen plants from seeds with a flower arrow at all, whereas in carrots such plants sometimes appeared during autumn sowing. When eaten, it seemed to me that root crops and carrots, and beets grown from seeds treated with cold, are more harsh than stored in room conditions. Therefore, I never again kept the seeds of carrots, beets and other root vegetables before sowing in the refrigerator. And from the heated seeds of carrots, beets, turnips, radishes, parsley, I always collect a plentiful crop.
Garlic
Once I did not have winter garlic for autumn planting. It was possible to purchase garlic bulbs only in November, when the earth was already frozen enough. I knew that at room storage winter garlic does not persist until spring, it rots. And during the autumn landing teeth
the garlic is frozen in winter, but in spring they germinate together, sometimes even through underexposed snow.
And I decided to keep the garlic in the cold. Picked up large Zubkov in three batches of ten pieces. Each batch was sealed in a paper envelope and put one simply in the fridge, the other in the freezer, and the third was left for normal storage in the room.
In the spring, he opened the envelopes and dropped the chives on the garden bed. From the garlic stored in the room suitable for planting it turned out three teeth, seven rotted. From the refrigerator, he threw out only two teeth rotted, seven landed on the garden bed. From the freezer, all the teeth were firm and looked healthy.
When the “room” and “cooling” teeth sprouted, there were no “freezing” shoots. After waiting another week, I dug up one of the teeth stored in the freezer. He was not alive. Apparently, freezing in the refrigerator, unlike freezing in the soil in winter, does not contribute to the life support of garlic planting material.
By autumn, plants from cloves stored in the refrigerator provided normal bulbs with large cloves. Plants from "indoor" cloves gave whole bulbs, without separation into cloves, like onions. The conclusion was drawn from this experience - it is better to plant winter garlic in the fall, but if it was not possible, then store it in the refrigerator's refrigerator.
Bow
In the autumn, pulling out onions, after drying, sorted, selecting small bulbs for planting in the spring. Selected bulbs were put in boxes and stored for storage in a hut on the floor in a secluded place. It was believed that there is the most cool and the bulbs are better preserved, not rotting and not dried. The bulbs were well preserved, but when planted in the spring, they all gave a flower arrow. The bulb, which gave the flower arrow, spending energy on flowering, reduced the yield on the turnip, but was not stored.
One fall, taking the bulbs for planting, I noticed in one of the boxes that the onions were not dried enough, and put this box with seed onions on a stick — a ledge from the chimney on top of the stove. Everyone forgot about this box, but only grabbed it in the spring when landing. Subsequently, it turned out that the bulbs that were stored on the stove in the winter did not produce flower arrows at all, grew larger and with a large number of turnips in the nest. Since then, all the seed onions are stored until planted warm on the stove and never give floral arrows.
Potato
In the spring, a month before planting, potato seed tubers from the cellar are collected in small boxes and put in a hut to heat and light - for vernalization. And once I find a recommendation that to enhance growth and increase productivity, potatoes should be placed in darkness and cold before planting for 10 days. It was not difficult to choose a cold - in the second half of May at night the air temperature rarely rises above +5 ', and during the day it constantly keeps around +10', +15 '. And I'm half of the boxes with seed potatoes that lay on the vernalization already
20 days and gave the green shoots, handed down to the barn. And he divided the potatoes into two batches in order to compare the effectiveness of the innovation with the tried and tested method of preparing potatoes for planting over the years, which has shown good results.
The potato tubers, which were in the dark and cold, rose two days later, but later grew and developed normally and did not stand out from the general field. In the autumn after harvesting, there was no difference in yield.
And one feature emerged — almost every bush of potato tops, which had been in darkness and cold, had a brush of green potato apples, whereas the other potato did not have them at all. I didn’t conduct such a procedure with potatoes.
© Author: Yuri Alekseev, p. Andomsky Pogost, Vologda region
METHOD OF LANDING CUCUMBERS IN TEA + COOL! AMAZING RESULT!
© Author: Yuri ALEKSEEV, p. Amdomsky Pogost, Vologda region
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
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Small seeds sow without difficulty
These two methods of sowing long ago peeped on the Internet and I enjoy using them until now. The first is ideal for seeds of carrots, dill and parsley, the second for even smaller seeds of lettuce, celery, turnips, basil, thyme, rosemary.
1. I put the seeds in a container from under the Chinese toothpicks and gently shake out through the hole in the lid one at a time in the hole.
2. A packet of food gelatin is poured in 1 st. warm water, mix thoroughly, add seeds. I add water until the gel begins to resemble a dough for pancakes. I dial it into the syringe and squeeze it in a droplet into the row. By the way, I noticed that the plants grow better and bear fruit after the "gelatinous" seed sowing.
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I buy seeds of vegetables that I grow with a seedless method in March. Last year, an interesting conversation took place with the seller in the garden store. It turns out that in addition to the usual dragee and inlaid, bubbled, encased in a gel shell and even plasma seeds appeared on sale. Has got on a bag of each novelty. Here are my conclusions.
Drazirovannye and inlaid seeds on radish and carrots are treated with fertilizers and growth stimulants, they grow better. I sow them dry in a damp ground, otherwise they will not germinate.
Seeds in the gel shell really liked. I often do not have time to water the crops, so the moisture-retaining gel was a good find.
The bubbling seeds, aged in oxygen-enriched water, did not impress.
Plasma (treated in a special atmosphere under reduced pressure) and allegedly super-similar (as stated on the package) also differed little from conventional (except perhaps the price).
But the convenience of carrot seeds, pasted on tape, appreciated. And to sow simply, and do not need to thin out. This year I will definitely buy these more!