How to water a kitchen garden in the heat?
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WATER IN THE HOT-WEATHER - KINDS AND WHAT IS BETTER?
Vegetable crops are big "waterbirds", and it is understandable why: in a short period of vegetation they need to increase kilograms of juicy fruits, roots or a large mass of leaves. but natural moisture in our climate, alas, can not do.
In the middle of summer, we basically do two kinds of watering: vegetative, giving plants moisture for growth and fruiting, and refreshing, simulating rain - to increase the humidity of the air and reduce the temperature around the plants, so that they can tolerate the heat more easily. The simplest is considered furrow irrigation.
The main rule of this watering: water is fed first to the lowest point of the garden.
If we take water from an open reservoir (irrigation ditches, ditches), then opening 2-3 the lowermost furrows, letting water into them, and when they fill up to the brim, open the next furrow, and close the watered ones. Water from a closed water pipe with a small head is convenient to feed to the beds on a polyethylene sleeve, which is laid throughout the site and in which opposite the each aisle we make holes. Watering with the help of the sleeve is carried out in the same way as on the furrows - starting from the bottom point and gradually closing the holes.
Watering in the holes laborious, because you have to carry buckets or watering cans, but economical. Wells and furrows after irrigation must be mulched with humus or compost to reduce the evaporation of moisture.
See also: How much and when to water vegetables: a table-memo
Where there is a central pressure water supply or a well, many use hose watering. But experts categorically do not recommend it: firstly, the water is too cold, and secondly, with a hose irrigation, the water jet blurs the soil, unevenly and shallowly moistens it, the moisture evaporates quickly, a crust forms. So the hose is used only to feed water into the furrows, to sprinklers and to fill barrels, tanks and other containers, where water for irrigation will settle and warm. By the way, when watering with sun-heated water, all cultures develop better and faster.
Subsoil watering especially suitable for tomato, pepper and other crops that do not like high humidity. For this method, ceramic, polyethylene or metal pipes with a diameter of 3-7 cm, in which small holes are made every 30-40 cm, are laid to the ground at a depth of 8-15 cm. Water should be fed into this system with a low head. Of course, this irrigation should be installed in advance, but now we can use its principle in a simplified form with the help of plastic bottles: pierce several rows of holes on one side of the bottle, and, filling it with water, we put it into the soil in the inter-row, leaving the upper part on surface, so that the water is warmed by the sun. For convenience, we will also make holes for filling bottles with water, so as not to remove them from the ground.
Drip irrigation, at which water is supplied very "targeted" to each plant through pipes from a tank raised to a small height, many gardeners have already equipped. This is a convenient and economical way, it creates constant and comfortable moisturizing for plants. And as a temporary drip irrigation, we can use all the same plastic bottles with water, having stuck their neck (in which the holes are made) into the ground near the plants. The main thing is to adjust the size of the holes so that the water does not flow too quickly and not very slowly.
Sprinkling and aerosol irrigation refresh the plants and at the same time moisten the soil. They increase the humidity in the ground layer by 50-70% and decrease the temperature in this zone by 5-6 ° C. We spend them in a break between vegetative watering. The disadvantage of such watering is that after a while a part of the lower leaves, especially in young plants, lay on the ground and are nailed by the soil. Therefore, even in hot weather, it is necessary to switch off the air for 2-3 h for a while.
After watering the next day loosen the soil, so that a crust does not form and the moisture evaporates. No wonder they say that one loosening is equivalent to two watering.
See also: Inland watering by own hands (photo)
On a note:
Weeds are defenders
In a strong heat, the soil is heated up to 50-60 ° C, and the sun burns from above, and the vegetable garden, as they say, "burns". Leaves and fruits get sunburn. What to do, how to save plants?
Anomalously hot summer is no longer a rarity. And many gardeners on their own experience were convinced that often weeds for tomatoes and peppers were not weeded out in time.
They protected the vegetables while the fruit beds were literally baked on clean beds. So even this summer, in a period of intense heat, we are not eager to fight with weeds, they will give vegetable crops a small but salutary shade. In addition, the soil covered with weeds does not overheat so much.
It saves it from overheating and mulching with crushed bark, straw, mown grass and other materials.
For the shading of vegetable beds in the gardens are traditionally planted "screens" of corn, sunflower. They put and fences, in the shade of which cucumbers and zucchini grow well. To priteniya beds, you can use the stakes, fixing on them old sheets. curtains or bundles of hay, straw, cane. Are also sold and special nets, giving a diffuse shadow, they are fixed above the beds at a height of 1-1,5 meters.
Reference by topic: How to water a garden
The way to protect plants from heat with the help of white clay (kaolin) has long been known. When kaolinirovanii plants sprayed with clay mortar (1 kg of white clay for 10 l of water). Add some liquid starch to the solution for better adhesion. We repeat the processing in 10-15 days. At one time this method was tested in the steppe zones, both in the fields and in the household plots. And it turned out that the white clay is a good protection against sunburn and burnt melons, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, cucumbers and zucchini.
WATERING WATER - VIDEO
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS..
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Many gardeners make the mistake of watering plants often, but little by little. Such watering will not bring much benefit, since moisture does not reach the roots of garden crops, but remains in the upper layers of the soil. In this case, the bulk of the roots of fruit trees is at a depth of 50-70 cm.
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When and how is it recommended to water vegetables?
Kirill Leonidovich
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In the open field, it is recommended to water vegetables in the afternoon, when the heat from the sun is on the decline, respectively, moisture evaporates less. In greenhouses of various types (film, glazed) it is better to water in the morning so as not to create excess moisture and precipitation of water drops at night on plants, this is especially dangerous at low night temperatures.
You can not water plants in the heat with cold water, they can get sick. For every square meter of land - at least 12-15 liters. Water in several stages.
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In the summer when watering:
30-50 l of water goes to the seedling;
on 3-5 summer trees - 50-80 l;
on 7-12-year-olds - 120-150 l.
If there are interruptions in water at the site, I decide which plants need to be drunk first, and which plants can survive without problems until the next rain.
So, for plum and cherry plum, watering is important in the first half of summer. In this case, the plum can not be poured.
Apple and pear watering abundantly in May and July.
But I rarely go up to a cherry with a watering hose. In the absence of rain I water it at the end of June during the active growth of shoots, as well as during the ripening of berries in July.
Currants and gooseberries water is especially needed during the formation of berries. On 1 sq. M spend about 20-30 l. The same amount goes to raspberries during the formation of ovaries and during the filling of berries.
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Grandma always said that plants should not be watered on the leaves in the heat. And I recently read that cabbage and garlic, on the contrary, like a cooling shower in the midday heat. Is it so?
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- The share of truth in the words of the grandmother is, however, this applies to greenhouses. When a drop of water lies on a piece of paper in the heat, the spore of the fungus can start growing inside it, and the longer the droplet does not dry out, the more likely the plant will become sick.
But on the street the drops dry out instantly, but the plants and the earth around them are cooled. This is especially important for cold-resistant plants that suffer greatly in the heat. For example, cabbage at temperatures above + 30 hail, does not tie a head of cabbage, slows the growth of potatoes, all types of onions, garlic and greens, except basil. Do not water the leaves of tomatoes, peppers.
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In the autumn, gardeners transplant some plants from the soil into pots and transport them home. When caring for them or for home flowers in general, I advise you to pay attention to an important point: tap water often contains a lot of lime, so the ground in the pot when leaking through the 4-5 months leaks out.
Signs - a white-yellow coating that appeared on the surface of the soil, these are salts of calcium and magnesium. In such an alkaline soil, plants lose the ability to absorb nutrition, do not develop and become sick.
A radical way of salvation is a transplant with full or partial replacement of the soil (top layer). The best prevention from alkalization is watering with rain, melted snow, pond, river or salt-free water in a special household filter. At worst, mulching the surface of the earth in a pot with marsh sphagnum moss.
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Do I need water after the rain?
I always rejoiced in my childhood when it was raining, which means that my mother will not force watering the beds in the evening! However, sometimes she still forced. Do you know why? Yes, because not every rain can replace a full watering. Especially if it's a short rain, after which hot weather sets in again.
To understand whether it is necessary to water after a rain of beds, it is necessary to dig a small hole.
If the earth is wet on the bayonet of a shovel - everything is fine, you can postpone watering for several days. But if the water has saturated the soil to a small depth, you will have to go to water. The roots of most garden crops are located at a depth of 15-30 cm, and if moisture has not reached this layer, the plants will suffer from a lack of water.
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In dry weather, the trees on the site are particularly in need of watering. We made this process more efficient.
Along the perimeter of the trunks, a metal tape (you can take plastic) with a width of 15 cm and a length of 2 m was cut into the ground. The low edges were obtained, thanks to which the water does not spread, but flows directly to the roots.
To moisture last longer in the soil, after watering, we thickened the trunk circles with a thick layer of humus. This is also an additional source of power for trees!