Do-it-yourself greenhouse in Siberia - arrangement, improvement and maintenance
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HOW TO EQUIP THE GREENHOUSE IN SIBERIA - TIPS AND SECRETS
Yes, that’s one widely known gardener who spoke of Siberia - paradise. And this is much more true than calling spacious, harsh, but fertile lands the land of evergreen tomatoes ... By the way, southerners also have something to learn from the author of the letter.
JUNIOR METHELICA
I am writing to you from the city of Nyagan, in Western Siberia, about 200 km north of Khanty-Mansiysk. Yes, we do not have a Colorado potato beetle and a bear, but all the other diseases and pests are a complete set. Summer residents grow and harvest almost all types of fruit crops, with the exception of grapes, pears and large-fruited apples. In greenhouses, stable yields of cucumbers, tomatoes and other vegetables, carrots, beets, turnips, potatoes, etc. grow well in open fields.
But in order to grow it all, you need to work hard and competently. The main problem is that our summer is a month, or even one and a half, shorter than, for example, in Moscow. Of course, here a polar day lasts a whole month, when plants receive sunlight all day, but the north is north. Over the 20 years of my stay here, frost occurred twice on June 3, snow lay, and a snowstorm walked along the street! In such summer snowfalls, only the yellow flowers of the swimming pool are surprised to see the snowdrifts around them ... Planting potatoes begins in early June, and last year only on the 10th.
I have been working with plants for more than half a century. By profession, like my father, I am a biology teacher. In North Kazakhstan, in the city of Mamlyutka, I was also the head of the pilot site, in charge of the garden and vegetable garden.
Arriving in Nyagan in 1998 year, besides the main work, he directed the school forestry. I worked with the guys and am engaged in gardening the city, growing flower seedlings for its decoration. Many thousands of pines and birches, firs and rowan trees, planted by children during the past 20 years, grow and decorate our city. Pleased planted as an experiment, limes and oaks, blue spruce and weeping willows, elms, snow leopards. For the past five years, we have acquired a dacha where we cultivate a wide variety of crops.
I wrote all this to say that over the years I have acquired a certain experience, some of which may prove useful to summer residents, not just the northerners.
I widely use in my work experience and skills, borrowed from my father, from literature, from other people and on the Internet. Here are some facts worthy of attention.
See also: Greenhouses and greenhouses with their own hands
GREEN SECRETS
Polycarbonate greenhouse not only increases the yield several times, but also makes it more stable, annual, but this is achieved only if the set of rules is respected. Here's what I'm observing:
- • The greenhouse is located from north to south;
- • the north of the region, the thicker the polycarbonate thickness should be (I have 8 mm);
- • the ends of the sheets before installation should be muted (zapenit), otherwise they plant algae, the transparency is reduced.
In the greenhouse (3 × 6 m) three beds and two paths were made, the beds were fenced with boards and 20 cm above the paths. Early in the spring, I wrap the greenhouse in a circle with a bubble wrap about 130 cm high, fasten it with tape, and take it off in June. I regulate the temperature in three ways.
The top ends of the greenhouses open at 90 °.
They are mounted on ordinary door brackets. One side of the bracket is screwed to a metal mount in a greenhouse with a self-tapping screw, and the other to a board attached to a polycarbonate sheet. The lower part of the polycarbonate is pre-fixed between two self-tapping boards. I have one door in the greenhouses.
The photo shows that all the space opens above the door and about a meter from the front side. Simple door handles turned out to be the most convenient for fastening; they are easily fastened with self-tapping screws both to the frame of the greenhouse and to the board on a polycarbonate window leaf. Special polycarbonate fasteners complement well the caps on plastic bottles. I pull up and down the window with a thick copper wire - it is durable and does not break for a long time.
When the heat comes, I take the thinnest white lutrasil 1,5 × 6 m and with large clothespins I attach it from the inside to the upper ridge. It is easy to regulate, and completely removed in August.
If the heat lasts long, I take a suspension Lime and sprinkle it on top of the greenhouse, it dramatically reduces solar radiation and the temperature in the greenhouse. If it rained and washed off part of the lime, I spray it again - this is only three minutes of work.
LITERARY SOIL INJURY IN THE "SIBERIAN" GREENHOUSE
In any greenhouse, especially in the new one for the first goal and in the old one every 3-5 years, a double digging is necessary. From the conversations with the summer residents, I got the impression that not everyone understands its essence and necessity. This is a doubling of the fertile horizon, a sharp improvement in the aeration of the soil, its fertility and, as a result, an increase in yield. It is advisable to do this on all beds in the garden, and in the greenhouse - it is strictly necessary.
Equipment: shovels bayonet and shovel, buckets or tanks according to 30-50 l, humus or soil mixture from peat, old sawdust, etc. from the calculation of 5 buckets at 1 sq. m. m or on a layer of not less than four fingers. We start work from the edge of the garden:
a) remove the upper layer of the soil with the bayonet shovel along the entire length and fill them with buckets and tanks. With a shovel, we clear the bottom of the groove, loading the soil into buckets;
b) on the bare bottom layer, fill the layer of prepared organic material with at least four fingers thick;
c) with a bayonet shovel as deep as possible, with a turn of the layer we dig this layer, trying to get as much organic material as possible to the bottom;
d) We again remove the upper layer of the soil with a shovel, but now we are already moving it forward, spreading over the dug ground with humus. We clean the bottom, pour the organics again, digging up to the end of the bed;
e) reaching the end of the bed, also cleaned, fertilized, dig over, and from the top we pour from the buckets and tanks soil from the first row.
TIME-TWO, TU-THU-TU! ..
I have problems with the place under the seedlings. Warm up the entire green area of 18 square. m is difficult and expensive. I plan to fence with dornite, sheets, etc. one third on the south side, put 4-5 pieces of 200-liter barrels of water (as heat accumulators), put boards on top, and place boxes with seedlings on them. Then, I think, even electric heating will not be very expensive.
Seedlings and even plants in the greenhouse I water and feed solutions exclusively for based on snow or rainwater. Such water has a special molecular structure, no salts. But the herbal infusion is prepared in well water: it contains salts and trace elements, necessary for the development of bacteria.
If the soil under the seedlings or even in the greenhouse turns green, I immediately water it well 2-3 times with a chalk suspension to reduce acidity.
I plant tomato seedlings obliquely, "head" to the north, roots to the south. But the day before the landing of crates. Or other containers with seedlings, I put with the slope, the upper part to the south. For these days, all the tops of plants are rushing up, and the roots, I think, are heading down. Such a seedling is then very conveniently placed in an inclined position, it has already taken the necessary shape.
Barrels for 200 l for planting zucchini and so on. I have been cut into three parts, and holes are made in the bottom, in the bottom. Such containers can easily be covered with a film on arcs, three times more plants can be placed on the same volume of organic material. Only the soil on which you will install pruning barrels, it is desirable to pre-fertilize well beforehand and dig.
Flowers with very small seeds, such as lobelia, petunia, snapdragon, and also onions (due to the very low germination of seeds, the norm of sowing has to be increased three times), I sow on the snow. In the box I fall asleep soil mixture, abundantly watered with water, and from above I pour a layer of snow. After that, I take the seeds and gently scatter them on the snow, trying to distribute them evenly on the surface. On white snow they are clearly visible.
Then I take a toothpick and I further distribute the seeds. After that, I put the film on top and put it in a warm place. I sometimes have 20 boxes in 4 row standing on the floor in the biology cabinet. Every morning, the boxes are inspected, then they are covered with a film again. It is necessary to make sure that the soil surface is moist, if necessary, gently watered. When the first shoots appear, the boxes must be placed on the south window sill. The germination is always excellent.
By the way, the onion for seedlings should be planted no later than 10 March, and its large seeds on the next day, sprinkled with a layer of soil in 5 mm and abundantly watered. Seedlings are planted in mid-May, both with pruning, and without. With good care, the harvest is the same both from seedlings and from seedling, most importantly, do not regret the ashes.
Usually when sowing root crops and some flowers it is recommended to sprinkle them with soil after sowing, then regularly watered. And my father taught 55 years ago to be different. Therefore, carrots and beets, and from flowers I will smell, eschol'tsiyu, koreopsis, nasturtium I sow so.
First, a bed is prepared, fertilized, digged or loosened, leveled by rakes. Then the cords are stretched, three are better. A small hoe along the cords should make a furrow depth of about 3 cm. Hand gently sow the seeds on the bottom of the furrow. Take a watering can with the capacity of 2-3 l and, without hurrying, plentifully water the bottom of the furrow, not allowing water to run off to the left or to the right, carrying seeds (large seeds of nasturtium with a finger pressed into the wet soil to the depth of the nail).
Take the rake and fill it with the reverse side of the furrow in a strictly defined order. The rake goes across the row. First, grab the far side of the row and sprinkle the furrow towards you, and then grab the near side and sprinkle it finally with dry earth, and slam it on top three times, tamping. It turns out very quickly and like to the music: one-two, one-one-one, one-two, one-one-one ...
Then transfer the cords, and everything repeats (cords are not needed on small beds). After sowing with a rake at an angle of 45 °, carefully level the bed. That's it, now for three weeks you can not approach carrots or cosmea: the seeds have received the necessary moisture supply, they have close contact with the soil, the rows are dry, the weeds do not grow there - the labor is minimal, and the germination is excellent.
Categorically forbidden to water such crops! Watering causes cracking and desiccation of the soil, the germination decreases in 5-10 times!
Seeds of carrots before sowing, I mix with wheat about 1: 3 or 1: 4-so sowing is easy and convenient, because they have the same specific weight. By the way, in Kazakhstan we carrots sowing seeder, and this mixture allowed to increase in 4 times the hole in the bottom of the sowing apparatus. The sow turned out to be uniform, and the sowing machines were never clogged.
If, as early as possible, in spring, soil is cultivated, sown carrots and rolled, all done in one day, the germination will always be excellent. True, before sowing it will be necessary to fill a portion of this mixture into one sowing apparatus, measure the length of the rim of the seed drill wheel and make 3-5 revolutions by wheel, collecting the seeds in the container. After that, count how much carrot seed was spilled out, what distance the seed drill would travel. Then, by increasing or decreasing the holes in the sowing apparatus, ensure that 1 m seeds are sown on 100 m.
Hybrid seeds of tomatoes I get this way: I prepare bright ropes, threads, tweezers. I choose green flowers (they are salad or light green in color) on the 2-4 brush and with a pair of tweezers, I tear off the yellow column of anthers, leaving a bare pestle with petals. In the "papa" cultivar, I choose ripe flowers (they are bright yellow) and I tear off the whole column of anthers with petals from my fingers. I remove the petals, and I completely put the column on the pestle of "Mom". Mom's petals
I wrap this column around and tie it around in a circle, and mark the entire brush with a bright rope. Day through 3-4 I look: if the formation of bad means, pollination succeeded, then I delete all other flowers on this brush.
These hybrid seeds will give a splitting, so I sow them twice as much, culling 50% seedlings and seedlings.
Growing large-seeded strawberries from the seeds, I was convinced that the best time for planting is April, that the splitting of the characteristics on the yield, taste, resistance to diseases, etc., necessarily takes place. Therefore, no more than 25% of plants are suitable for further cultivation.
FOR A RAINY DAY
There is nothing worse than hunger. My father-in-law, a veteran of the Great Patriotic War, awarded two Orders of Glory, said that in the war he stopped starving only when he went into intelligence. My father, who by some miracle did not die of starvation in the labor army, said before death that he most of all wanted to eat a fried mouse, and my mother said that the most delicious thing in her life was gophers, which they drove out of their minks with hungry water 1930s in the village of Lepekhinka in the Saratov region. They said that every Leningrad survivor of the blockade always had a sack of flour on the balcony. I never went hungry, but just thinking about it makes me shiver ...
I got the impression that our government is trying to restrain the unlimited export of grain abroad, which is very, very correct. It would be desirable that in the next years as much as possible attention and resources should be directed to the development of the grain economy of the Non-Black Earth Region, the North of the Tyumen Region and similar regions.
I believe that the most the main crops in arid years should be potatoes and black beans because of their yield and nutritional value. Let in this year there is not enough water to irrigate raspberries or even tomatoes and cabbage, but for 200-300 potato bushes 2-3 times over the summer there will be water, at least according to 3-5 l under the bush.
Sorry for the confusion of the presentation. I wish all the toilers of the earth rich and sustainable crops!
See also: Greenhouses and greenhouses with their own hands - advice from readers (Collection 3)
GREENHOUSE IN SIBERIA OWN HANDS - VIDEO
© Author: Valery FREZE, Nyagan. Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug - Ugra
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