Chicken coop with your hands on stilts - photo and its advantages
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KURYATNIK ON THE SUPPORTS OWN HANDS
Having moved to live from town to village, my husband and children from scratch mastered farming, brought in dairy goats, laying hens, guinea fowls and rabbits. I’ll tell you about how we built a chicken coop - a practical house decorating our site for 20 laying hens. It can be placed in a prominent place in the yard. And the high support pillars allowed to significantly increase the area for walking.
You think that cleanliness and chickens are incompatible concepts, right? I assure you it is possible!
Any household building in the yard should be beautiful on the outside and functional inside, and the work should bring joy and take a minimum of time.
COOLER CLEANING
This chicken coop is very easy to maintain: inside there are pallets for collecting droppings under the perches, which we take out for cleaning through the doors located on the rear wall. It is noticed that chickens defecate in 95% of cases just sitting. Thus, the floor remains almost always clean, not counting a pair of random piles.
It is for this reason that we do not cover the floors with litter even in winter. A clean, dry floor is a guarantee of dry legs in chickens.
A full indoor cleaning takes 15 mines: you need to shake out the pallets, scrape a few heaps off the floor with a scoop and replace the hay in the nests. If desired, you can clean the floor with disinfectants.
Once a year we carry out a full cleaning with washing walls, floors, perches and pallets. Then, we all whitewash, adding an insecticidal concentrate to the solution.
See also: Mini-chicken coop on stilts with own hands (photo)
CLEANLINESS OF EGGS IN BLOCKS
Hens do not rest and do not sleep in nests that are below perches. The survival instinct is calling the bird to climb overnight from danger onto a branch. In our case - perched. And the chicken enters the nest only to lay an egg.
LACK OF RODENTS
For 3, the operation of the coop, neither rats, nor mice, nor Horey thought up to climb inside the stairs! So the problems of gnawed walls, strangled chickens and spoiled eggs are simply not there.
NO ODOR AMMIAKA
There is no wet floor bedding in the room. A built-in exhaust fan for 15 min completely cleans the air.
However, the design has its drawbacks.
First of all - the cost of electricity. You have to pay for beauty. Winter heating is only electric. We use an electric heater with temperature control. We do not turn on the heating until frosts below 10 ° are established. During this time, chickens grow thick and warm fluff, which will warm them in the winter. My hens and at minus 15 ° walk all day on the street. Young laying hens rush all winter, except on days when the thermometer drops below minus 25 °, they rest. In this case, an infrared lamp was hung on the wall so that the light diagonally fell on the entire length of the perches. Different temperature zones turned out: the closer to the lamp, the warmer.
And this the hen house is not suitable for laying hens. Toddlers can fall from a height and crash. That’s why I don’t leave eggs under the brood hen — I change the livestock, buying 4-month-old hens, or I only raise chickens in the summer, fencing the supporting posts of the chicken coop with a net and putting a box of hay there for the children to sleep there.
Having chosen a high dry place on the plot, we made a cement curb around the entire perimeter of the plot, on which the hen house itself and the hen enclosure walls were later installed. PVC pipe was installed for water drain in case of high water. And for our convenience, we also cement the path leading from the house to the chicken coop.
8 support pillars 80 cm high are made of a beam with a section of 100 × 100 mm and are interconnected by a beam of 100x50 mm. 4 are standing on the curb, and cement blocks are dug under the rest.
On the long side of the chicken coop every 50 cm they inserted a rib and fixed boards 100 × 25 mm - logs of the future sex.
A whole OSB sheet of 125 × 250 mm was laid and fixed on top of the structure, the missing fragment was cut and docked flush. The floor is ready, it remains to insulate and sheathe it from below.
All walls are built on the principle of a sandwich: the frame of the beam is insulated and sheathed outside with OSB sheets. Timber sawed on the segments according to the drawing, drilled holes for screws to prevent cracking. Laid out on a flat surface, fixed with clamps. Connect the timber to the screws using a device for drilling oblique holes Kreg Jig. If it is not, everything is going on the corners.
The frame was laid on an OSB sheet, a pencil was draped over window and doorways, which were then cut out with a jigsaw and fastened with screws. In the same way prepared the second side of the wall.
See also: Chicken coop with own hands - 2 type: portable and stationary
Assembly chicken coop designs very simple.
The wall with the windows and the door through the lower timber was screwed through the floor to the supports, the front walls were attached to it and connected through the side risers to each other and also to the floor.
On the back side, 2 made large doors, for the entire length of the chicken coop. Through them now we take out trays for collecting litter. All insulated with 30 mm foam plastic, sliced it in place, and sheathed outside OSB sheets.
The frame of the chicken coop floor is made of timber 50 × 50 mm. The bottom side was sewn with an OSB sheet, insulated and sewn on top. The side walls were mounted on bolts, connecting them from above with a beam. This beam also serves as a support for the roof of the mounted socket. The nest itself is assembled separately and bolted. The external wall of the nesting compartment is hinged. How convenient it is - do not go into the chicken coop to collect eggs! The nesting compartment is also insulated and
OSB sheathed inside, roofing - metal. When assembled, this element of the chicken coop turned out to be very heavy, therefore, it was fastened not only to the screws, but also installed spacers below the bottom of the socket and the support, adjusting the length in place. Partitions are installed between the nests, so that the size of one "seat" is 30-40 cm. This is enough for chicken breeds. How many nests do you need? We were guided by general principles: one nest for 3-5 hens.
A board 100 × 25 mm went to the rafters, fixed it with metal corners on the upper beam of the wall, covered it with a crate, waterproofing film, laid a metal tile on top.
Large doors made two types: summer - with a mesh for ventilation, and winter - insulated.
And the door for the exit of chickens is equipped with a lifting device in the form of rollers and fishing line. In order to open and close it, it is not necessary to enter the enclosure - the fishing line is brought out and fixes the door in the open / closed position. The dimensions of the doorway are 25 × 25 cm. The width of the ladder along which the birds enter the chicken coop is 40 cm, between the steps 15 cm.
We made street perches so that hens could “sunbathe” there in winter, because the winter sun falls under a canopy only in this place. However, I do not recommend repeating this experiment. There are no pallets here - this is firstly, and secondly, the chickens are so fond of sitting there that they forget to enter the house for an overnight stay, even in cold weather.
HOW IS THE COURT EMERGENCY INSIDE?
Perches are made of a rounded bar 40 × 50 mm and are located on the same level at a height of 60 cm from the floor.
The distance between the perches and from the 30-40 wall, see. Under them are installed removable trays for collecting litter, each of which stands for perches in both directions on the 20 cm. To prevent them from sticking, we put a small layer of sand before installation. We bring the feeder and the drinker for the winter period to the inside of the room. The feeder is hung at the level of the bird’s chest, and the trough is installed on a special stand with heated bottom. It is made of galvanized sheet, folded in the form of a box with an incandescent lamp of 40 W installed inside the incandescent lamp. Now the water does not freeze in any frost. And so that the chickens do not turn over the water bowl, on top it is protected by a small roof installed at an angle of 45 °.
Outside, the chicken coop and the aviary were covered with drying oil, on top with two layers of PF-115 enamel.
Only the floor is painted inside - water-based parquet varnish (odorless).
They also made an aviary for walking. Its walls are assembled from boards, covered with plastic mesh with a mesh of 20 × 20 mm and covered with a banner from the rain. A litter of a thick layer of sand prevents dampness. During cleaning, we simply sift the sand through a fine mesh collecting litter.
We keep laying hens for about 10 years, and a new chicken coop was built only 3 a year ago. Comparing the content of chickens in a regular barn and in a new chicken coop, I can say that now I really enjoy poultry care and spend a minimum of time on it.
Reference by topic: Two useful devices for the chicken coop with their own hands
And NOW I WILL TELL A LITTLE BIT ABOUT THE MOST DESIGN
Chicken coop dimensions: 250x145x125 mm.
For the construction took:
- bar 100x mm 100 for support posts;
- a beam of 100 × 50 mm for connecting the supports;
- beam 50 × 50 mm for the frame of the walls;
- board 100 × 25 mm for the roof;
- OSB sheets moisture-proof 250x125x9 mm;
- insulation (mm foam 30);
- roofing materials;
- screws;
- bolts for mounting sockets;
- corners or device for drilling oblique holes Kreg Jig;
- galvanized sheets for pallets;
- built-in fan;
- rollers for lifting the door;
- linseed oil and enamel PF-115.
CHICKEN HOUSE IN OUR HANDS - PHOTOS AND DRAWINGS
© Posted by n. Tails Volgograd
CHICKEN HOUSE ON OWN HANDS - OPTION 2
From spring to late autumn, we spend a lot of time in the country. In addition to the vegetable garden, he decided to breed chickens in order to save on the purchase of meat and eggs. Made for pestles a small chicken coop.
I sawed out details for the walls of the frame from a bar with a section of 40 × 40 mm (photo 1). Separately knocked down frames for walls with openings for windows and doors, assembled a chicken coop frame for self-tapping screws (photo 2)
From a board with a section of 80 × 20 mm, I made a gable roof frame, consisting of rafters and lathing, and fixed it on the base of the chicken coop (photo 3)
Outside, the frame was sheathed with OSB (photo 4) and from the inside it was insulated with mineral wool (photo 5). Heater sewn up with plywood.
The walls are closed with glass (photo 6) and sheathed with clapboard. On the roof frame secured with screws OSB (photo 7)
A board with a thickness of 20 mm made the floor, leaving an opening through which chickens would go outside. Inside mounted perches, and to one of the walls for long screws fastened a box for layers.
At the final stage, he fixed a soft tile on the roof (photo 8) and installed windows and doors in the openings.
I chose a suitable place on the site, dug in four columns and installed a ready-made chicken coop on them, it remains to buy chickens.
© Author: Nikolay Abgaryan, Rodnichok, Saratov Region. Photo author
CHICKEN HOUSE IN OUR HANDS - VIDEO
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