Do-it-yourself hand-drawer with drawers - photo and drawings
Contents ✓
BEAUTIFUL BOX FOR CHEST (ACCESSORIES) OWN HANDS
COMPOUND
With this accessory the dresser will get an elegant look and additional storage space. It is easy to assemble using lamella joints, and two drawers are easy to manufacture. Conceived as an addition to the dresser presented earlier, it will perfectly fit into any situation.
PROJECT OVERVIEW
Overall dimensions: width - 743 mm; depth - 413 mm; height - 127 mm.
Two drawers with hidden compartments for storing small things.
Used materials: cherry boards 22 and 19 mm thick; maple boards - 19 and 13 mm; birch plywood - 6 mm.
* Nakomodnik: 1) is an additional piece of furniture with shallow drawers for storing small items, mounted on top of a dresser or low cabinet;
2 is a small tablecloth or decorative napkin that serves as an ornament to the dresser or low cabinet cover.
BEGIN WITH CABINET DETAILS
1. Glue the boards of cherry boards with a thickness of at least 22 mm to get two blanks with dimensions of 419 × 914 mm for cover A, bottom B, side walls C and partition D (Fig. 1). A little tip! Glue the boards in parts so that they can be processed on a thicknessing flock.
For the manufacture of each piece will need three boards width 140 mm. Most reysmusnyh machines, which are usually found in home workshops, will not allow to process shields of such width. Therefore, first glue the two boards and cover them to a thickness of 19 mm. Blaze the third board to the same thickness, and then glue it to the shield, aligning the sides of both blanks flush.
2. Saw cover A from one blank according to the dimensions indicated in the “List of Materials”, and bottom B from the other.
3. Install a parallel stop of the saw machine at a distance 89 mm from the saw blade and cut out the side walls C and the partition D according to the specified dimensions from the remnants of the board blanks. In addition, cut another piece of the same size as the side walls (later use it to make a measuring bar). To safely cut short parts along to the final width, fabricate them using a cross-cut technique using an angular (movable) stop of the machine.
4. Tilt the saw blade at an angle 37 ° vertically and file the bevels along the bottom edges on both end edges, and then on the front edge of cover A (Fig. 1 and 1). Along the upper edges of the edges with bevels, cut roundings with a radius of 3 mm.
5. Use a mill for roundings with a radius of 10 mm to process the upper edges on both end edges and on the leading edge of the bottom B, in accordance with fig. 1.
NOW ACCEPT FOR CONNECTIONS
1. To make lamella joints, prepare a measuring bar (fig. 1, “Wizard board”), using an extra piece C to make it. Mark the back edge of the board.
THE MASTER'S COUNCIL
Measuring plate for easy marking
Measuring plate will help you quickly and accurately mark recurring dimensions, for example, when marking the slots for the slats. Instead of measuring and marking the joints separately, mark them only once on the trimming board, as shown in the photo. Then attach the gauge to the part and transfer the marking lines. When working on this project, we also used the measuring bar as a stop for the lamellar router when sampling sockets in the lid and bottom (photo B).
2. Mark the center lines of the lamella sockets on the upper (inner) side of the bottom In the middle of the part and at a distance 29 mm from both edges (fig. 1).
3. Hold the center line of the lamella sockets in the middle of cover A on its inside. Place the lid and bottom B on the workbench, aligning the back edges and aligning the center lines. Transfer to the cover and mark the side lines of the connections (photo A).
4. Set the lamella router to select the #20 lamella sockets. At a distance of 10 mm from the center line of the sockets of cover A, set the marked back edge of the gauge and press it with a clamp. Holding the lamella milling cutter vertically, press its base to the measuring bar and mill the lamella sockets according to the marks on it (photo B). In the same way, cut the nests along all the middle lines of the cover and bottom B, each time setting the measuring bar flush with the rear edge of the part.
5. Transfer the marking lines of the lamella sockets from the measuring bar to the upper and lower edges of the side walls C, also aligning their rear edges.
6. Shorten the measuring bar by the rear side of the 6 mm. Then align the new trailing edge with the trailing edge of the septum D and mark the position of the sockets on the upper and lower edges of the septum.
7. Adjust the stop of the lamellar milling cutter to select the nests exactly in the middle of the edges of the side walls C and the partition D. Fixing these parts with clamps on the workbench, cut three sockets in each edge.
COLLECT THE CABINET
1. On a milling table, using a cutter for sampling folds 6 mm in width or a straight cutter together with a parallel stop, cut the folds along the rear edges of both side walls C from the inside (fig. 1).
2. Sand the cover A, bottom B, side walls C and partition D with sandpaper to a grit size of 220.
3. Apply glue to the bottom sockets B, insert lamellae into them and install side walls C and partition D according to fig. 1. Then put glue into the slots of the side walls and partitions, insert the lamellas and install cover A.
4. Making sure that the rear edges of the side walls are aligned with the rear edge of the bottom B, and the rear edge of the partition D is separated from it at a distance of 6 mm, squeeze the body with clamps (photo C).
5. According to the specified dimensions, cut out the back wall E. Drill the mounting holes in the back wall and cut them (for 4,5 mm screws, drill the 4 mm mounting holes and 2,8 mm guide holes). Set the back wall aside.
See also: Changing table-chest of drawers with own hands (photo + drawings)
Make a couple of boxes
1. Cut the stops F, front G, side H and rear I walls as well as the bottom of the J drawers to the dimensions shown.
2. On a saw machine with a slotted disc with a thickness of 6 mm, process the front G and side H walls (see “A chest of drawers with a shaker style”, Fig. 9, and 1-3). Then install a slotted disc with a width of 13 mm and cut out the grooves at the rear ends of the side walls (as shown in Fig. 9, step 4). Saw an additional slot to install the partition (fig. 2).
3. In the front G and side H boxes, cut out the dowels with a width corresponding to the thickness of the plywood bottom J. The top edge of the dowel should be located at a distance from the upper edge of the front and side walls equal to the width of the back wall of the box (Fig. 2).
Glue front G, rear I and side walls / partitions H together, as shown in fig. 2. Insert the bottom J into the front and side dowels, but do not stick it. Check the squareness of the boxes and squeeze the connections with clamps (photo D). Attach the bottom to the back wall I with the finishing nails.
5. Drill mounting holes in the front walls of the G-drawers to install knobs (Fig. 2). Finally polish the boxes.
See also: Wooden chest of drawers with drawers
COMPLETE DETAILS
1. Check how the drawers enter the cabinet and, if necessary, lightly polish them. Glue to the bottom of the housing B stops F, as shown in Fig. 1.
2. Toned room commode as desired (we used Min Wax No. XXUMX Cherry-wood stain to get the same color as the dresser).
3. Apply a transparent finish (we used three coats of opaque polyurethane varnish with interlayer abrasive sanding using 320 grit).
4. Apply an antifriction tape (fig. 1) in the corners of the housing openings. Replace the back wall of the housing E, drill the guide holes in its side walls C and screw in the screws. Glue to the bottom of the case in the felt lining. Attach handles-buttons to the boxes and insert the boxes into the openings of the case.
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
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