Very beautiful stand-hanger for clothes, blankets, etc. do it yourself - photos and drawings
HANGER FOR QUILT OWN HANDS
Try your hand at bending bands of elastic African mahogany to create strong and graceful legs of this hanger.
We produce a template
1. From the MDF panel 19 mm thick, cut three parts with a size of 710 × 1040 mm. On one of them mark one bend with a radius of 355 mm and the other with a radius of 150 mm for holes for clamps (Fig. 1). Glue the three sheets evenly together, avoiding any distortions; timestamp should stay on top.
2. From a hardboard 6 mm thick, make a template of a central shape (but not side swipes) and screw it in the center of the bottom to glue together three sheets of MDF. Install a guide sleeve on the router in 35 mm and a straight mill 20 mm. Mill around the circumference of the template in several passes (deeper and deeper) to separate the shape from the workpiece.
A quick tip: if your cutter for cutting out a template is not long enough, just flip the workpiece and use a flat cutter to finish the job.
3. Remove the sleeve, insert the cutter for the template, and cut the shape flush with the template.
4. Separate from the shape of the swage and cut them to a given shape (Fig. 1). Unscrew the hardboard template and drill in the shape of the holes for the clamps. Glue the wide packing tape on the adjacent ends of the molds and swages to prevent their possible gluing in the future.
5. Draw the centering lines and mark on the form the location of the grooves under the spikes of the progres (Fig. 1).
See also: Furniture on wheels with their own hands - 2 option: stepladder and stand
Cut and glue
1. From the veneer sheet, cut 24 strips of 2 × 2235 mm. Fold them in the order of the cutting sequence for perfect bonding. For each sidewall A, eleven strips are required. The remaining two will be spare: if any of them crack or break.
2. To gluing does not stick to the surface of the bench, cover it with paper. Apply a strip of liquid hide glue in the center of the strip (photo A). Put another strip on top of it and repeat this operation until you fold the pile of eleven strips. At the same time try to fold the ends and edges of the strips as smoothly as possible. From the end of the resulting laminated glue mark the center point along the length, and then follow the directions shown in the photo BF.
To avoid bonding problems, practice first clamping strips folded but not oiled with glue. The liquid glue will set in about 20 minutes - so you have time to apply it, assemble the workpiece and clamp it in clamps. However, work pretty quickly.
3. When the glue is dry, grind off the uneven edge of the laminated glue using an equalizing groove cutter (photo G).
4. Turn the entire assembly over, loosen the clamps and push the milled end A so that it is flush with the top (and now the bottom) of the mold. Tighten the clamps again and trim the other end to bring the workpiece to the specified width. Trim the ends of the workpiece in length (photo H).
5. Transfer the groove layout lines from the template to the sides A. Then repeat steps 2-5 to make the second sidewall.
Go to the assembly stand-hangers
1. Mark the locations of the projectile spines on the inside of the sidewalls A. Make grooves for the progresses B and the crossbar C and D (photo I).
2. Saw the widths B in size (fig. 2), carve the spikes and drill holes. Round the edges of the ridges and the ends of the spikes. Sand down the tips. A quick tip: don't you have a 11-mm rounding cutter? It does not matter: use the 12-mm milling cutter pushed on the 11 mm above the milling table. Then sandpaper remove the flat edges between adjacent rounds.
H. For crossbars C and D, cut five blanks 22x22x762 mm. On all four edges make the cutter rounding 10 mm (photo J). Cut the crossbars along the length (Fig. "Detailed view") and polish them to a circular cross section.
4. Carve the spikes at the ends of the crossbars (photo K). Note that the spikes on the lower crossbars D are shorter than on the upper crossbars C (fig. “Detailed view”),
5. Assemble the entire structure, glued in place of prokhozhki. Drill the lock holes in each spike and put dowels with a diameter of 6 mm in them (Fig. 1, “Detailed View”). After drying glue abrade dowels flush ends.
Brief tip: so that there are no glue smudges in the places where the spikes of the cuttings exit, apply only the spikes to them, backing about 5 mm from the edge. A quick tip: make your own mahogany dowels using the same method as for the crossbars - just take a 3-mm milling cutter for rounding.
6. Glue all five of the crossbars in the sidewall with the guide, then attach the other sidewall and fasten the entire assembly with clamps. Place the hanger on a flat surface and check if it is swinging.
7. Apply a film-forming impregnation, such as polyurethane or other varnish, lightly sanding each layer with an emery sponge with 320 grit. Allow varnish to dry completely before hanging on the crossbar quilts.
See also: Excellent stand for a Christmas tree with your own hands
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
Below other entries on the topic "How to make your own hands - a householder!"
- A great home desk for a child with their own hands (+ PHOTO)
- Ironing board with own hands (+ photo)
- DIY round table made from a hanger
- Bed-podium for a mattress made of wood by own hands
- Two-sided (with 2 backrest) bench by one's own hands
- Do-it-yourself soft headset on metal legs - drawings
- DIY kitchen furniture set - drawings
- Piano chair (not rotating) with your own hands: how to draw photos and drawings
- Do-it-yourself podium in the nursery with drawers for toys
- Table with a lid-tray with your own hands - drawings and production procedure
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DIY hanger
Last year, an old hanger broke in the country. I made a simple wall option from improvised materials.
I took four trimmed boards of a rectangular shape in different sizes. Each processed on all planes and faces with sandpaper. In two smaller details (they will be at the edges), I cut along one side edge at an angle of approximately 45 degrees.
He folded the parts tightly one to one to check for cracks - there was no need to even the edges. Grani missed the glue with PVA Stolyarny glue and connected the parts, fixed the workpieces with clamps for additional setting.
The finished product was covered with a double layer of colorless varnish on wood and screwed on the hooks purchased at a hardware store. The hanger is ready.
Recently I updated the entrance hall in the country and bought a new coat rack, but did not throw out the temporary option, now I use it as a housekeeper.
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Hanging hanger do it yourself
I wanted to decorate the hallway in the style of minimalism, so the idea to make an original clothes hanger soaring in the air appeared.
Wooden base for hangers found with friends in the woods. Thoroughly dried and covered with matte varnish. Then, drill a few holes under the hooks with a drill (photo 1). Suspended the structure to the ceiling in two loops of thick twine (photo 2), after fixing metal hooks on the ceiling (photo 3).
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There were ringlets from the old cornice, and in the closet was a broken coat hanger. Looking at this good, I decided to make a convenient holder for shawls.
She took the fabric duct tape and fixed with it on the hanger rings from the eaves along the entire length of the crossbar. Additionally, she strengthened the cracked place with a ribbon and connected the rings to each other for reliability. In the ring wore shawls. On such a convenient holder, you can hang belts or ties, and if you have many such things, fasten two or three rows of rings.
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"Pedestal" for paper towels with their own hands
On the Internet I found an interesting version of the holder for kitchen paper towels. He made himself the same.
From the trim of the furniture board (you can use it from the board), I sawed a rectangular base 25x20 cm in size with a jigsaw. Stepping away from the short edges of 2 cm to the center, I drilled two holes of d 14 mm and inserted two 10 cm cuttings into them. I missed before inserting for reliability glue. I sawed a clamping bar measuring 25 × 10 cm from the same shield. I also stepped back from short edges of 2 cm and drilled two holes d 16 mm. He cleaned both parts of the holder (base and clamp) with sandpaper and coated with colorless varnish on wood. He placed the product on the table and “charged” towels into it.