Shadow on the plot - what plants to plant and what to do with it
Contents ✓
- ✓ Shadow through the wattle
- ✓ SHADOW UNDER TREES
- ✓ Every tree has its own climate
- ✓ STRUGGLE AGAINST SHADOW - FIRST STEPS
- ✓ TRIM CROWN
- ✓ IMPROVEMENT OF SOIL COMPOSITION
- ✓ MULCHING
- ✓ WHAT INSTEAD OF THE LAWN IN THE SHADOW
- ✓ COUNCIL OF FORMED GARDENERS
- ✓ FLOWER IN SHADOW - VIDEO
- ✓ CHOICE OF PLANTS FOR SHADOWS
- ✓ WHEN ALL THE EFFORTS TO FIGHT AGAINST THE SHADOW IN THE AREA ARE SCALABLE
- ✓ A SHADY PLACE ON THE PLOT AND PLANTS FOR IT - ADVICE AND FEEDBACK
- ✓ WHAT PLANTS TO PLANT AND GROW IN THE SHADOW - VIDEO
SELECTION OF PLANTS FOR A SHORTY HOUSE PLOT
As a rule, the best garden compositions work out on the ground, well lit by the sun. But no less interesting options can be created on shady areas.
There are many plants that not only do very well without constant sunshine, but also prefer shade. True, the shadow of the shadow of discord. Therefore, to begin with, let's see what it is.
Shadow through the wattle
The conditions in the shadow are directly dependent on what objects create it. If the site is shaded by a house or a deaf fence, then the shadow in this place is dense, dense. But during the day the situation changes. Places on the western or eastern side of the wall are shaded for only a few hours, the rest of the time the rays of the sun fall here.
From the north side of the world it is much less, especially in the period from late autumn to early spring, the plants get only a bit of the morning and evening sun, and besides the snow does not melt here for a long time. In addition, places close to a house or a fence can be quite dry, since raindrops rarely fall strictly vertically, the prevailing winds and a blank wall can create an obstacle for them.
SHADOW UNDER TREES
If the site is shaded by trees and shrubs, then the factors affecting the conditions of plant growth are even greater. It is important to consider when in spring the tree wakes up and begins to grow. Early grow leaves of birch, poplar, maple, willow, hawthorn, horse chestnut. Later, foliage appears on the apple tree, linden, oak, ash. Ornamental shade-loving plants planted in their shade can get ahead of trees in spring - time to grow and bloom.
The shape of the crown of trees is important. Wide and dense crown of chestnut and maple, weeping willow crown creates a dense shadow on the site. Lace shadow prevails under the apple, irga, rowan, alder, pine, larch.
The color of the foliage also contributes to the shadow conditions. So, trees with dark leaves give a thicker shade and reflect less light than trees with foliage of light shades.
In the shade of trees, less moisture evaporates from the surface of the soil. But we must not forget that their roots actively suck water and nutrients from the earth. It is believed that the root system of the tree is located within the boundaries defined on the ground by the projection of the crown. But in fact, the roots in search of moisture can continue to penetrate - for example, to places where rainwater accumulates or a flower garden is broken up on fertile soil. Trees begin to actively "drink" before the buds wake up, and reduce water consumption in late autumn. The firs, birch, and bird cherry dry the soil most of all.
Every tree has its own climate
- The apple tree gives a lace shade, which serves as a natural defense against the direct rays of the sun and leaves enough light for the development of other plants:
- Oak wakes up late in spring, but its roots, bark and leaves are rich in tannins, which have tannic properties and suppress soil bacteria. Therefore, the conditions for plants are unfavorable in the circle of an oak tree.
- The bird cherry gives a loose shadow, but its roots strongly dry the soil.
- Spruce creates a dense dense shadow and almost does not miss rainwater.
- Pine virtually no shadow area.
- Fallen needles increase the acidity of the soil. In addition, terpenes are contained in green needles - substances that can inhibit the development of plants.
See also: How to arrange a plot near the forest - tips and ideas
STRUGGLE AGAINST SHADOW - FIRST STEPS
So, you have decided to win a part of her possessions from the shadow and create there an attractive garden composition.
To provide new plants with favorable conditions, do not forget to hold some events.
TRIM CROWN
It will help to make the crown more transparent, letting in more sunlight. There are two ways to trim. Combining them, you can get the desired result. The first is thinning of the crown. Its general form is retained, but part of the large branches are removed. The second way is raising the crown. It is done by cutting the lower branches and allows access to the light from the side. The lower branches are usually removed on conifers with a low crown (firs and firs) and deciduous (willows, bird cherry, ash, mountain ash), which hang the branches to the ground.
IMPROVEMENT OF SOIL COMPOSITION
Most shade-loving and shade-tolerant plants prefer moist, but well-drained soil, it should be sufficiently nutritious and at the same time light. The optimal composition is sheet soil and compost or humus with the addition of sand.
If plants with a shallow root system (for example, ground cover) are selected for the shady area, then the soil mixture suitable for them can be simply scattered in the places of planting. For plants with deeper roots, in some cases it is appropriate to make a raised flower bed. Sometimes it is arranged in a tree circle. But then the height of the bulk soil should not exceed 30 cm, so that the roots of the tree do not suffer from a lack of oxygen. And in order for the earth not to be washed away, the edges of the flower bed are reinforced with stones or boards.
MULCHING
Obligatory event, which is necessary for flower beds, located in a dry shade, if they do not have ground cover plants. Mulching should be carried out annually in spring, when the soil is already warmed up and was saturated with moisture. As a mulching material, you can use the bark of trees, wood chips, nutshells. Mulching should be done so that no bare plots of land remain, but perennials, especially small ones, are not recommended to fall asleep: their young shoots will not be able to break through the layer of mulch and will begin to rot because of dampness.
WHAT INSTEAD OF THE LAWN IN THE SHADOW
Gas under the canopy of trees is difficult to maintain in good condition. Therefore, it is better to replace it with fast-growing ground-cover plants: zhivuchka, yarnot-koy, pakhizandra, periwinkle. Higher plants with creeping stems and rhizomes will also suit: lily of the valley, kupeny, bergenia, disporum and some ferns.
COUNCIL OF FORMED GARDENERS
Near pines, planting perennials is quite simple, trees do not inhibit their growth. With spruce, everything is different. Many gardeners recommend planting no closer than a couple of meters from the trunk, in the selected sector, chop the roots of the tree and establish protection - a piece of metal tape 30-40 cm wide. Only dense plants survive under the dense crowns of fir trees.
FLOWER IN SHADOW - VIDEO
CHOICE OF PLANTS FOR SHADOWS
MEDUNITA (Pulmonaria).
This is a short-growing plant, the height of which does not exceed 30, see. The stalk of the medunitsa is covered with short hairs, the rhizome is rather thick, the leaves are sessile, with a soft down. In plants of this species, in the process of flowering, the color of the corolla changes: pink at first, by the end of flowering, the rims turn blue.
Medunitsu can be seen in a mixed forest: on the edges, clearings and under shrubs. But in recent years, the plant is more confidently “prescribed” in the gardens. After all, this shady perennial blooms at a time when nature still does not spoil us with bright colors. And after flowering the plant pleases elegant leaves.
In almost the entire territory of the European part of the country (with the exception of the northern regions), there is a medunitsy obscure, or dark (Pulmonaria obscura). It grows mainly in deciduous forests among shrubs, along ravines, along streams, and mainly on sandy soil. In addition to it, in the gardens, the most commonly grown sugar-lung sugary (R. saccharata), red-lungwort
(R. rubra), long-leaved jungle (R. longifolia). In the red, soft, softest and indistinct medunitsa leaves are pure-green, in the sugar and long-leaved leaves they are decorated with white or silver spots, dots or a marble pattern.
Medunitsu prefers a shady and moist area with fertile loose soil. In the summer during a drought needs watering, in the fall it is desirable to pour peat or compost under bushes.
Every 5 years, plants are divided and planted in a new place at a distance 25-35 cm from each other (otherwise the leaves will shrink). When planting, delenki are slightly buried.
Seeds of lungwort sown immediately after harvest. Usually shoots appear next year. Varieties and ornamental forms reproduce only vegetatively.
See also: How to arrange beds about the sides of the world?
LARGE (Lamium).
Its appearance resembles nettles. In yasnotki tetrahedral stalk, opposite leaves, located in pairs crosswise, pubescence, covering the plant. A peculiar flower resembles the head of a fabulous beast with a gaping maw. Corolla tube is short, curved, hairy inside. The upper lip is round and convex, strongly hanging over the flat bottom. A lot of nectar accumulates at the base of the corolla.
Growing yarnotku easy. It is unpretentious, prefers loose soil and semi-shady places. Propagated by seed and division of the bush. Planting grows quickly with creeping shoots that form roots at the points of contact with the soil.
Young stems and leaves of the lungwort are used to make salads and soups. And although they have no particularly pronounced taste, they are quite good with sour or spicy additives. The aboveground part (grass) of a plant collected during flowering is widely used in many countries for respiratory and pulmonary diseases.
WHITE CLEAR (Lamium album) - wild plants, its height in the first year does not exceed 20-25 cm, under favorable conditions it grows up to 0,5 m. Spotted lamb (L. maculatum) has a number of interesting decorative forms - Aigeite, Beacon Silver, Roseum , Variegatum. Unlike the white cassock, they have low shoots (15-20 cm) and pink or purple flowers, but the main thing is beautiful leaves with silver-white spots.
These forms are often planted in mixed flower beds, as well as used as ground cover plants in the penumbra.
GROUND, OR AZARUM (Asarum).
An evergreen plant with a year-round ornamental, successfully resists weeds and perfectly complements the composition in a shady corner of the garden. Due to its shape and arrangement of leaves, the wild goose is successfully combined with plants with a vertical or fountain-shaped form (ferns, lambshes, sedges, trilliums), with narrow foliage.
The hooffoot, or European asarum (Asarum europaeum), is found in the European part of Russia, as well as in southern Siberia. In the wild, the plant can most often be seen in deciduous or coniferous forests, as well as in the forest-steppe belt. It is a low ground cover plant whose maximum height is 25, see. Ledging branched stems are decorated with leaves in the shape of a heart on long petioles, and no more than 2 leaves grow on one shoot. Their color is deep green. Young shoots, leaves and buds are trimmed with a short silver pile. Lingonberry flowers, about 1 cm in size, with 3 pointed petals. Flowering occurs in the middle of spring.
The hoofed hoofed dog (A. caudatum) got its name because of the highly elongated tail-like top of the petals, because of which the flower takes the form of a three-pointed star. This azarum from North America has light green leaves, and their petioles are noticeably higher than those of Europe.
Canadian canine (A. canadense) is another inhabitant of American forests. Its leaves are also green and have no pattern. However, it is more squat and more compact than tailed.
Hoofed splendens (A. splendens), the name of which is not accidentally translated as “brilliant” or “magnificent,” is with large leaves, along which a pattern of silver spots curls. Flowers up to 6 cm in size.
Gypsy is very demanding on the soil. It should be loose (water and air permeable), moist and have moderate or neutral acidity. Perfect loamy substrates with the addition of peat and sand, rich in humus.
All plants reproduce easily. Their jackets gradually grow, forming a dense cluster of rhizomes interwoven with each other on the soil surface. Rhizomes have roots along the entire length, which is why virtually any piece is “doomed” to easy survival and further growth when dividing at almost any time of the year. The best time for planting or dividing is spring or autumn with subsequent watering and mulching.
The hoofed foot can be propagated by seed, but this method is much more complicated and takes more time.
MILK (Euphorbia).
The unpretentious plant growing practically on any nutritious air-permeable soils and not demanding special leaving. It is easily reconciled with penumbra, perfectly tolerates dry periods, to the stagnation of water (with the exception of milk eater marsh) is negative. Actually the flowers of all euphoria are inconspicuous and inconspicuous. And we do not admire their flowers, but beautifully colored fused bracts.
Euphorbia marsh (Euphorbia palustris) forms fan-shaped bushes in height from 100 cm to 150, see. This species blooms in spring and early summer, at this time it is very decorative, the foliage remains until frost, and in autumn it can become beautifully colored. Propagated by dividing the bushes in spring and at the end of summer, green cuttings in the first half of summer.
Griffith Euphorbia (E. griffithii) - a long-rhizome species from the Eastern Himalayas up to 90 cm high, is quite aggressive. Leaves are opposite, linear or lanceolate, angry. It blooms in early summer. Easily propagated by segments of rhizomes. This species grows well both in the sun and in partial shade, foliage effectively contrasts in texture with cereals (sheep, reedweed) and large ferns. The plant can be propagated by dividing the bush.
Milkweed amygdala (E. amygdaloides) is an evergreen species from Europe and Southwest Asia. Stems up to 80 cm tall, more or less erect, form bushes. It blooms on the shoots of the second year, which subsequently die off. It is recommended to cut the stems after flowering - this stimulates the growth of new shoots. Leaves up to 8 cm long, 2 cm wide, dark green, often with a purple tint. Red-leafed forms are reproduced by seed propagation. Euphorbia amygdala grows well in the shade, on moist soils. However, varietal plants are best planted in the sun, so that their peculiar coloring is fully manifested. This species is decorative all year round, with its help it is possible to decorate tree trunk circles, varieties with burgundy leaves will serve as a good background for other plants.
BOOK Siberian (Atragene sibirica).
Shrub vine, wild congener of garden clematis with delicate carved leaves and bell-shaped white fragrant flowers. Four wilted "petals" (it is more correct to call them sepals), inside of which there are long stamens, always look down.
It has no special claims to the soil, it grows in partial shade. Moreover, the denser the shade and the more north the location of the liana, the larger and whiter the flowers will be and the flowering period will last longer. The prince needs a support, on which he will crawl in height to 3-4 m with the help of curling cuttings of leaves. Liana is decorative not only in flowering, but also during the blooming of leaves and at the time of fruiting. In August, the princesses tied the seeds and at the same time richly covered with charming fluffy balls.
The easiest way to propagate this liana with layering, but you can get new plants and with the help of seeds, woody and green cuttings.
ASTILBA (Astilbe).
Perennial herbaceous plant with an aerial part dying off for the winter. Stem erect, height depending on the type of 15 cm to 2 m. Numerous basal leaves on long petioles, twice or three times pedicat, less often simple, dark green or reddish-green, toothed. The flowers are small, white, pink, lilac, red or purple, collected in apical inflorescences-panicles.
The ideal place for this plant is the shaded corners under the canopy of trees or shrubs. Heavy loam is more suitable for astilbe; it is important that phosphorus and potassium are enough in the rooting layer. The plant blooms around mid-July, flowering of different varieties continues until autumn.
In dry hot weather, astilba will fade away earlier, but if it is plentiful to be watered, then in September it can bloom again. Such properties are possessed by the varieties Amethyst, Mont Blanc and Hporia Purpurea, which is valued for saturated pink or lilac flowers and unusual foliage with brown or reddish tint.
Astilba Professor Van der Vilen also has milky-white flowers on thin reddish-brown stems. The height of the plant reaches 90-150 cm. The length of the racemose inflorescences is up to 45 cm - to match the size of the bush. Flowering begins in July. The bright flowering of the Astilba Straussenfe der attracts glances not only with the elegant shape and size of the inflorescences, but primarily with their unusual coral color. Plants of this variety grow up to 80-100 cm, bloom in late July and will well decorate shady areas of the garden and corners under the scattered sun.
The simplest and most common way of propagating astilbe is to divide the bush in spring or late autumn. Each delenka should have at least one kidney of renewal and a rhizome 5-8 cm long, preferably with accessory roots.
WHEN ALL THE EFFORTS TO FIGHT AGAINST THE SHADOW IN THE AREA ARE SCALABLE
In a shady place, especially if perennials do not want to grow there, you can arrange a gravel garden. To begin, you will need to dig a bed of 10-15 depth, see. At the bottom it is desirable to put some permeable inert material, the best geotextile. It is necessary to arrange the boards near the bed, they will protrude from the ground, but only a little, so that they will practically not be visible. To reinforce the sides, you can use ribbons made of thick plastic, strip of tin, curbstone or brick. During laying, gravel must be thoroughly rammed.
A SHADY PLACE ON THE PLOT AND PLANTS FOR IT - ADVICE AND FEEDBACK
PLANTS FOR A SHADY PLACE AND TYN FROM CONES WITH YOUR HANDS
In any garden there is a shady corner that you want to decorate with flowers.
But the lack of sunlight limits the choice of plants for such a garden.
The shady corner on my site, which has an almost triangular shape and dimensions of 70x100x130 cm, was not so at first. The wall of the building, located on the western side of the triangle, did not prevent the sun from illuminating it until 14 pm, but this was enough for low and curly annuals to grow here.
On the south side, 24 years ago, I planted three western arborvitae and a spruce. The trees probably liked this place, and they grew tall and with a spreading crown. Planting them, I did not count on such a result. Spruce, planted, for example, on the same day with four more of her peers, surpassed them in development by three to four times. As a result, from the illuminated this corner turned into a shady one.
Thinking about why these trees grew so well, I remembered that while digging planting holes, I came across a layer of construction debris left from the previous owners of the site. This layer consisted of broken bricks that became drainage.
In subsequent years, when conifers became prestigious plants on the plots, I took into account previous experience and, when planting conifers myself or helping others, I always laid a drainage layer on the bottom of the planting pit.
Now my shady corner began to be illuminated by the sun for only 3-4 hours a day. But despite this, it grew very well here in the semi-wild state of scorzonera, or as it is called “black root, which had beautiful pinkish-purple inflorescences in summer. But in autumn it was better not to pass by it - you will be covered with seeds that cling stronger than any burdock.
However, the soil in this place was fertile. And I hoped that someday my “hands would reach” this site, and therefore, constantly digging it up, I brought leaf litter, humus, sod and forest land here.
Therefore, when I was presented with lilies of the valley from the forest, and I myself bought garden flowers, there was not even a shadow of a doubt where to plant them. Having dug out the rhizomes of the black root, I planted lilies of the valley (C. majalis) in the most shaded place of this site. In a more illuminated place, I placed Astilba Arends in dark red (Fanal) and pale pink (Federsee). And around Astilbe he placed saxifrages (S. Caespitosa) - with flowers of white and pink flowers, and also (S. Umbrosa) - with panicles of white flowers with red speckles (photo 2).
But this flower bed looked unfinished. I tried to overlay it with stones, gravel, bricks - it did not work. It's good that spruce grew nearby. cones from which fell on a flower bed. This led me to the idea to make a "tyn" of cones.
First, around the flower bed, I drove a steel strip into the ground, picked up cones and, alternating them in height, stuck them into the ground.
"Unblown" cones in the place of their attachment to the branch have the shape of a cone.
A flower bed framed by cones is just beginning to live, and I planned to plant undersized species for the already growing plants - American Volzhanka (A. americanus) and Exclusive Dicenter (D. eximia). In this case, the building material was not at hand, but overhead. And whoever seeks will always find.
© Author: Sergey DEMENTIEV. Moscow Photo by the author
NOTE: PLANTS FOR SHADOW IN HOME (+ PATIO, INDOOR ROOMS, ETC.)
Aglaonema (Aglaonema) Under natural conditions, it is found in the rain forests of tropical New Guinea, the Malay Archipelago, and in Southeast Asia. It is an evergreen herb with a short and straight, rather fleshy stem. In some species, the trunk begins to branch at the base, its formation occurs due to the flying of the lower leaf plates.
Color foliage directly depends on the type and variety of plants. The form of dense leathery to the touch leaf plates ovate or lanceolate. The leaves are attached to the stem with stalks, which can be long or short. The edge of the leaves is solid, while the plate is patterned, and on its front side there is a depressed middle vein, which is convex on the wrong side. At the top of the plant from the leaf bosoms grows from 1 to 3 cobs with a greenish-white veil, they are inflorescences.
The cobs can be thick club-shaped up to 40 mm long or thin cylindrical about 60 mm long. The fruit is a juicy berry, inside of which there is one orange or white seed.
In the wild, aglaonema grows in shaded areas, so when grown at home it also needs penumbra, but for a variegated shape, bright diffused sunlight is required, otherwise the decorative coloring of the leaves will be lost.
The optimum summer temperature is 20-25 °, in winter it should not be lower than 16 °. The plant does not tolerate drafts and a sharp change in temperature, prefers abundant watering, which is carried out after the top layer of the substrate dries out. The plant requires high humidity. To maintain it, flower growers are advised to pour pebbles or expanded clay into the pan, pour some water into it, and put a plant pot on top. It is important to ensure that the liquid and the bottom of the pot are not in contact. It is recommended to transplant an adult plant no more than 1 times 4-5 years.
Variegated Aglaonema Crete (Crete) reaches a height 70 cm. Stems erect, densely covered with oblong-ovate leaves. A young plant has a red leaf color that eventually fills with green spots. In this case, the red streak in the middle of the sheet does not change its color.
Aglaonema changeable (A. commutatum) has two shades on one sheet: light green in the middle and dark green on the edges. An adult plant reaches a height of about 0,5 m, but grows very slowly.
Aglaonema ribbed (A. costatum) - the shortest species, has an underground stem and short petioles. The leaves are oblong, with a bright central vein and many light spots on a dark green background.
Cissus (Cissus) - unpretentious ampelous plant, which in nature is common in the tropics and subtropics. People often call it indoor grape or birch because of the external similarity of leaves with foliage of these plants.
Cissus is not distinguished by lush flowering: it blooms quite rarely, (nondescript pale flowers are collected in false umbrella inflorescences. The plant is valued for decorative leaves and unpretentiousness. The optimum spring-summer temperature is 18-25 °, the most comfortable winter temperature is within 18 °, but the plant can tolerate short-term drops to 10 ° C. Cissus does not like drafts, due to sudden changes in temperature, it often drops leaves, prefers high humidity.
Most light-requiring cissus rombolistny (C. rhombifolia), but from the bright sun the plant is still recommended pritenyat. Cissus Antarctic (C. antarctica) can grow in the shade. It is often placed in the halls or even in the bathrooms. It is an evergreen vine with oval or ovate leaves up to 12 cm long, the edge of which has serrate-toothed shape.
Sansevieria It has several popular names - a pike tail, mother-in-law's tongue, snake skin, and comes from the subtropics and savannahs. This is a very hardy and unpretentious plant with straight meat and lanceolate leaves, which in some varieties reach a height of 1,5 m. The leaves are usually directed upwards, sometimes slightly to the sides.
Sansevieria grows well in the temperature range from 16 ° to 26 °, it does not have a pronounced rest period, therefore it can be maintained all year round under the same conditions. The main danger for the plant is excessive soil moisture. Dampness provokes stagnation of moisture in the roots and their rotting, therefore, watering should be carried out only when the top layer of the substrate dries out on 1 -1,5 cm, and care should be taken to ensure that no water gets into the rosette of leaves. Powerful roots grow strongly to the sides, for this reason low, but wide flower pots are best suited to a plant.
Three-lane Sansevieria (S. trifasciata) can reach a height of up to 100 cm. Lancet-shaped leaves, elongated, grow in a vertical direction, painted in dark green color, with light transverse stripes. The plant can do without natural light, content with artificial light.
Munsein Sansevieria (S. Moonshine) - with dense upright leaves of light green color with a bluish-silver tint about 6 cm wide, the length can reach 30 cm.
Sansevieria cylindrical (S. cylindrica) they are distinguished by unusual twisted leaves, resembling a large onion in shape, with transverse contrasting or close to the main stripes and a sharp point at the end. The plant is absolutely not demanding lighting. One of the varieties of this type Twister (Twister) has a tubular flexible leaves, which allows you to create fancy compositions from them.
Spathiphyllum (Spa-thiphyllum) come from South America. The stem of the plant is absent, the basal leaves of oval or lanceolate form a bundle directly from the soil. An inflorescence in the form of a cob on a long leg with a veil at the base. After flowering, the white veil quickly turns green.
Spathiphyllum Wallis (S. Wallisii) - with leaves about 5 cm wide and 15-20 cm long, on which depressed veins are clearly visible. The cover of the cob is small, up to 4 cm long, first it is white in color and then gradually turns green. The plant is undemanding to lighting.
Ficus (Ficus) prefer a bright place in the room, but without direct sunlight, which can cause leaves to burn. Ficus creeping (F. sagittate) is less demanding, it can grow in a dark room with artificial lighting.
This plant is popular due to its graceful shoots, which are swirling rapidly and at the same time have numerous additional roots. The leaves are rough, wrinkled to the touch, painted in bright green color, have a heart-shaped form and a mesh pattern on the surface.
The plant loves moisture and regular spraying. Often it is placed on a stand filled with water.
Adiantum - a small and very beautiful fern native to the subtropics, where it prefers to grow in the cracks of calcareous rocks near water bodies. Cirrus leaves (vayi) of this plant are fan-shaped and asymmetrical. Almost every species of adiantum has its own leaf structure, they also differ in the degree of branching and size.
At home, most often grown adiantum Venus hair (A. capillusveneris). The lobules of its leaves have rounded-toothed edges. The plant is shade-loving, prefers frequent spraying with warm soft water. The rest period lasts from October to March. At this time, watering should be carried out once a week, but make sure that the soil does not dry out excessively. In the summer, the plant is watered 2-3 once a week.
GARDEN UNDER THE CROWNS - ARRANGEMENT OF A SHADY AREA WITH LARGE TREES
Trees and tree-like shrubs are an excellent basis for design ideas. That is why plots of land with large plants are very valuable, because it is more comfortable there than on empty land. But to buy such a dacha and not go wrong - you still have to try very hard. Or you have to be very lucky. Before buying, you need to take into account and check a lot, and in the process of arranging the territory you cannot make mistakes.
GOLDEN MIDDLE
On a small plot, even one mature tree with a spreading crown can shade almost the entire plot, and the neighbors will certainly get it. In addition, forest giants, like birches, are noble water-drinkers. So this area will not be suitable for those who like to dig beds, create rock gardens and rose gardens. It’s easier to choose without trees or with a specimen whose shape can be adjusted by pruning - maple, linden, thuja.
But if there is a lot of space at the dacha, they mainly relax there, and do not solve food problems, you should not grab a saw and an ax. Trees will become the main decoration of the landscape. And shade in the summer heat (photo 1) is more than a pleasant bonus.
PLANS AND PROSPECTS
Suppose you bought a plot with forest trees or an old overgrown country garden. Something will obviously have to be removed, not even for development, but to save the rest of the vegetation. Make sure woody plants are healthy. Ideally, those corroded by bark beetles, those with rotten trunks, and those that are simply weak should be disposed of before the construction of the site begins. And of course, old apple trees and other fruit trees that have died or are eking out a miserable existence will be used for firewood.
Forest clearing and construction within its boundaries have their own specifics. Don’t rush to cut down young trees, estimate how old their adult neighbors with thick trunks and huge crowns are. What if they are too old or stunted? After all, the average lifespan of a birch is 60-80 years. If they take longer to grow here, they may need to be replaced soon.
CARE AND PROTECTION
Plan new buildings, paved areas and paths, retaining walls, decorative ponds and underground communications, be sure to step back from the trunks of the trees being preserved. Be guided by the “span” of the crown, try not to encroach on these boundaries. It is believed that the root system occupies the same space below the surface as the branches above it. First of all, remove stunted, very elongated trees from a densely grown area. It is easier to identify them when the foliage is fully open, that is, in the summer or in the dead of autumn.
Excavation and filling of soil under trees is prohibited. If you increase the level of the site, make a so-called dry well around the trunk. And to increase the height and thickness of the soil, use light, breathable soil. And when you remove the soil, ring the remaining hill around the tree with a retaining wall so that the soil does not crumble. The larger the diameter of the “well” or “island”, the better for the tree. The minimum size is half the crown diameter, provided that no more than 0-4 m is removed or increased. But it is better not to touch the soil at all within the crown projection.
How to preserve a beautiful pine or birch tree that happens to be near or right on a construction site? Temporary board shields around the lower part of the trunk will save you from mechanical damage to the bark by trucks (photo 2).
Trees often suffer due to soil compaction and removal of natural grass cover. This can be avoided if you fence off the areas with the most valuable trees or even tree groups in advance, so that during construction, cars do not enter there, workers do not enter, building materials, sand, soil, etc. are not stored. That is, it is necessary to protect both the trunks and the approaches to them.
WHERE IT'S SHADOW ALL DAY
The forest canker will appear at its best if the long-legged trees are covered here and there with medium-height vegetation, that is, to create an edge. Suitable for this are euonymus, mock orange, viburnum, Tatarian maple, elderberry, hazel, fragrant raspberry, holly mahonia, dogwood, and mountain ash. Plant bushes in groups rather than evenly around the perimeter of the clearing.
It is unlikely that a lawn in continuous shade will grow beautiful. Even if the grass sprouts, it quickly withers. So why do the extra work? Let the perennials scatter like a continuous carpet in the forest, fortunately there are many who love openwork shade. It is difficult for weeds to get through them, and in the fall you won’t have to rake them like a lawn. On the contrary, rotted leaves and needles will become natural mulch and top dressing.
A low green carpet will be made from lesser periwinkle, European hoofweed, creeping tenacious, common sorrel (photo 3), loosestrife, and ivy bud. Or maybe they are already here and there on the site and they just need to be helped to grow better and in the right places.
WITHOUT THE MASTER'S ATTENTION
Suppose an overgrown, long-abandoned plot of land has been purchased, and what should the new, confused owner do, where to start?
The most difficult thing is when the entire space is filled with impenetrable thickets of forest trees and shrubs or, what is no better, sea buckthorn, thorns, cherries, and rose hips. Moreover, mixed with wild grasses and construction waste. But even such a plot can be turned into a dream garden, although this is not easy to do
Dismantling unnecessary buildings is the first thing. At the same time, emergency trees are being removed—fallen, dry, or heavily leaning trees.
Unrotten trunks and thick branches of fruit trees sawn into firewood are considered excellent fuel. If you have to cut alder, then especially don’t burn it in vain and don’t take it away - it’s no coincidence that these firewood are called royal. But putting everything under the saw and ax is reckless. So first we conduct an audit and decide the fate of each woody plant.
Rejuvenating and formative pruning will help fruit trees that are not too old. If you are an inexperienced gardener, we remind you that such operations are not carried out in one season; you cannot remove many branches from a tree at once, as it may die. Neglected plantings will not be harmed by treatment against pests and diseases both at the stage of clearing the garden and in subsequent years.
Ornamental woody plants, after rejuvenating pruning, can provide pleasure for many years. Sometimes even adults can be rejuvenated and redeployed if they interfere with construction. For example, an old but healthy, very fragrant and profusely flowering lilac bush, with good care, will again grow a gorgeous crown in a couple of years.
IDEAS TO CHOOSE
If there are many of them, it is better to lay paths between trees not in a straight line, but with bends - it looks natural, and the main plantings can be walked around without disturbing their roots (photo 4). The same applies to terracing the site. As for retaining walls, structures made of gabions contribute to better preservation of giant trees (photo 5). They do not cause stagnation of moisture and over-compaction of the soil, which means that the root system suffers less from such improvement than when constructing concrete monoliths.
The bench around the trunk has not gone out of fashion for a long time. Why not make one yourself, for example, by ringing a linden, pine, or other tree with a high crown (photo 6). A bench with or without a back is a matter of taste; the main thing is that the structure does not touch the trunk and the resinous bark does not stain clothes. And the legs of the bench should not injure the roots.
Boardwalks with tree trunks running through the floor also look unusual (photo 7). Light garden pavilions are less commonly set up this way. In the latter case, the tree passes through both the floor and the roof. The foundation of such buildings is not solid, but point-based or consists of screw piles. Sometimes, using the same principle, a children’s playground or just a tree house is planned on an individual project (photo 8).
© Author: M. BAKUSHEVA, landscape designer
SHADOW IN THE GARDEN: HARMFUL OR GIFT?
Many people believe that the shadow on the site creates certain inconveniences for the design of the territory, because most plants prefer the sun. But it is she who gives the unique pleasure of coolness on a hot summer afternoon. In a shady corner you will definitely want to relax in peace and quiet, read a book or just dream.
ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES
A shady garden has both positive and negative sides.. They should be taken into account when designing the territory. Pros:
- + protection from the scorching rays of the sun;
- + shelter from strong winds, noise and dust;
- + excellent place for a bench, gazebo, playground; + protection from prying eyes;
- + the ability to select suitable plants for different degrees of shading and, depending on this, form many flower beds and flower beds.
Cons:
- – even unpretentious and shade-loving plants do not want to grow in dense shade, with virtually no access to sunlight;
- – dense shadow near buildings creates a damp microclimate, which harms premises and fences;
- – shady places are always cooler;
- – as trees grow older, they grow not only a crown, but also roots, which over time can protrude above the ground and interfere with passage;
- – under coniferous trees, which even create an openwork shadow, it is not always possible to plant other plants because of the low-lying branches, so you will have to either cut off the lower branches to at least a height of 1 m from the soil, or refuse to plant in these places.
DEGREE OF SHADING
Depending on the amount of light received, several degrees of shading can be roughly distinguished. Taking this into account, it is easier to select green pets for each site.
Openwork shadow under the crowns of large trees creates a moving, intricate pattern of play of light and shadow. Shade lovers and many sun-loving plants will feel great in such a place.
The shadow on the north side of the building depends not only on the height of the structure, but also on the time of year and time of day. Here you can grow flowers that are afraid of the midday sun.
Partially shaded area Illuminated by the sun 3-6 hours a day. This is an excellent location for most plants that prefer partial shade.
Full shade - an area illuminated for less than 3 hours a day. Unfortunately, only a few species will grow in such conditions.
CREATION OPTIONS
Natural shadow. When a new site is located partially within a forest, mature trees are tried to be preserved whenever possible. In this case, buildings and plantings are located taking into account the shadow created by large trees. This may not be entirely convenient, but it saves time on growing large specimens from young seedlings.
Man-made shadow. To protect open areas from the sun, young trees and shrubs are planted in the right places and wait until they grow up. This option for creating shady corners takes longer, but is better adapted to the tastes and wishes of the owners. Regardless of the option chosen, there are nuances that need to be taken into account.
PAY ATTENTION TO:
- distance. Sanitary norms and rules (SNiP) regulate where trees are planted near the boundaries of neighboring buildings. Before planting seedlings, especially tall and medium-sized species, you need to familiarize yourself with the regulatory documents and find out what the distance should be from the large plant to the neighboring building. Failure to comply with SNiP standards is fraught with unpleasant consequences, so it is better to think in advance about where to plant new trees or preserve existing vegetation on the site.
- the size. In addition to the distance from the borders, you need to take into account the size (height, crown diameter) of a particular tree. The fact is that large specimens can be damaged by wind. The strength and frequency of winds in the middle zone have increased significantly over recent decades. Therefore, it is important that large-scale aircraft broken by the elements do not damage or destroy buildings when falling, which could lead to the death of people. It is much safer to use medium-sized crops 5-9 m high to create shade in the garden (bird cherry, yellow acacia, thuja western Brabant and Smaragd, weeping willow, weeping birch and many others.)
- proportions. To choose the right tree, you also need to take into account the size of the area. In large areas, maintaining a distance from borders, it is preferable to plant large single trees. Lower species can be added to the tapeworm, forming ledges-cascades. Plots with a small area are planted with medium-sized trees and tall shrubs. Plantings are located along the boundaries of the territory or arranged as a large mixborder, combining coniferous and deciduous species of different heights. For miniature areas, it is better to choose 1-2 medium-sized or dwarf trees, to which you can add low-growing perennials and creeping plants.
- lower layer plants. Large deciduous trees are great for creating shade, because perennials and annuals can be planted under them, selecting them for a specific degree of shading. Among the most unpretentious and undemanding species in terms of illumination are common aquilegia, small periwinkle, large-leaved brunnera, loosestrife, heuchera, lily of the valley, hybrid hellebore, woolly chickweed, creeping and horizontal species of junipers, as well as many hostas and bulbous species.
SHADOW ON FOUR SIDES
The creation of shady places depends on the cardinal directions and the movement of the sun, so these areas are positioned so that as the sun moves across the sky, they fulfill their function and create shadow at different times of the day. More often, the southern side of the site is chosen for shady places, although their presence is allowed in the eastern and western parts, but additional shading of the northern side is undesirable. The only option when planting trees in the northern part is justified is protection from the north wind thanks to a thuja hedge. But in this case, trees should be planted away from buildings.
© Authors: Tatiana CHEREPKO, landscape designer, Minsk; Tatiana ZHASHKOVA, chairman of the Moscow Flower Growers club
WHAT PLANTS TO PLANT AND GROW IN THE SHADOW - VIDEO
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
Below other entries on the topic "How to make your own hands - a householder!"
- How to make a crop rotation plan - regular, four-field and five-field - example tables
- How to properly plant conifers on the site - the choice of varieties and types and care for them
- Coil for garden hose - Photo
- Formation of vegetables - advice of candidate of agricultural sciences
- The introduction of microelements for fertilizing plants - what when and how much
- Support for trees with their own hands
- Umbrella chatting with their own hands
- DIY font near the bath - drawings and tips ARCHITECT
- Planting thuja with seeds for hedges
- How to determine if fruit trees have frozen over the winter - cand tips. biol. of sciences
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
It seems that not so long ago we got a piece of land, and the trees and bushes have grown and cast a shadow where vegetables and flowers used to grow. Tell me what flowers that do not require special care can be planted there.
#
Many summer residents face this problem. In nature, not all plants have enough space under the sun, and many of them have adapted to live in the shade. Spring flowers - primroses, hyacinths, crocuses - feel good under the crowns of deciduous trees. During their flowering, there are almost no leaves on the trees, which does not prevent the penetration of light. Then they don't need light anymore.
In summer, in partial shade, astilba, aquilegia, and bathing suit grow well and delight with their flowering.
Flowers that can easily be grown in shady areas include periwinkle, bergenia, and hosta.
Periwinkle grows well even in heavily shaded places: under the crowns of trees, near solid fences, near bushes. Its leaves are beautiful, leathery, evergreen, and blue flowers appear within two weeks in early spring. After a few years, a real carpet is formed from a small plant. If it is not limited, the periwinkle can capture all new territories.
Badan is a rather shade-tolerant evergreen plant. It grows well in semi-shady places, it develops worse in sunny places. In one place can grow 10 years or more. It has large green leaves with a beautiful shiny surface. In autumn they turn bronze-red and remain so until spring. During flowering, bergenia produces thick peduncles with purple-pink flowers collected in a thick brush. Badan blooms from late April to mid-May.
In shady places, dark green hostas can be planted. Their main advantage is beautiful oval leaves, which are located on petioles and are collected in a rosette, which gives the bushes a special appeal. And the hostas are blooming beautifully. In one place can grow more than 10 years. Plants are winter-hardy, but in spring they can suffer from frosts.
#
How to create a shadow
There is a house on the site, but there are practically no tall trees. Share your experience, how can this be fixed in a short time? The site is located in the Moscow region, the soil; loam + sand, water at a depth of 4-5 meters. Thank you.
#
The abandoned site was restored - the land is fertile, but there is a shadow there until lunchtime. What is better to sow in such beds?
#
- Most vegetables do not feel good in the shade. However, cabbage and potatoes are more resistant to this. Tomatoes can also grow, but their ripening period will be extended, and the fruits will be less tasty. In the described area, you can also plant zucchini, pumpkins and squash
#
Many summer residents have empty dark corners behind the house. Not all plants can live in the shade. But ferns thrive in a shady forest where the soil is acidic and moist. To transplant a fern from the forest, you need to dig a hole on the site and transfer the plant there along with a decent lump of earth. Try to keep as much roots and forest soil as possible. Mineral and organic fertilizers are not needed - it is better to bring forest land.
The composition with the living fountain of green ferns perfectly combines funkias. They need to be planted away from ferns - funkii are also shade-loving, but they do not like acidic soil. Bring them garden soil. At the end of July, the funkii will bloom. Find a spot for an astilba with crimson, white and purple flowers nearby. It will make a wonderful corner to relax in the shade.
We've noticed that different flowers perceive sunlight differently. Crocus loves the sun so much that it withers in the shade, does not want to grow. But the groves and forget-me-nots seem to care where they live, in the shade or in the clearing. Lilies of the valley and periwinkles are trying to go under the tree tent. Here they have large leaves and cheerful flowers. In May, daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, primroses and forget-me-nots bloom on our site.
#
Tell me, what are the shady annuals that bloom all summer?
#
Unfortunately, shade-loving flowers do not exist. All plants need light - as a source of nutrition. But there are plants that can tolerate shading to one degree or another. Such plants are called shade tolerant.
Mostly almost all flowers love the sun, but some species of annuals can put up with light partial shade.
Multi-colored cosmeas can create a bright joyful atmosphere even in the shaded areas of the site. But the cosmea of light tones — white or pale pink — will look especially good here.
Lavater, especially white, will also grow well in such areas.
Nasturtiums and marigolds, lobelia, viola and balsamins can also grow in light partial shade.
#
how to use shadow areas
On any site there are fully or partially shaded places. And they can be used to good use.
There are many beautiful perennial plants that can grow in partial shade (hosta, Volzhanka, astilba, bought, etc.). But some vegetable crops can be planted in light partial shade. These are greens such as arugula, mustard, spinach, salad.
Cabbage species such as broccoli and cauliflower also grow in partial shade. Some varieties of radishes will yield crops here, and chard and beets will also grow to produce foliage. The main thing is not to thicken the plants and carry out weeding on time.
#
Please advise which flowering plants to plant in the shade.
#
To revitalize the shaded areas in the garden, you can plant such plants as astilba, aquilegia, lily of the valley, cuff, bergenia, foxglove, snowdrop, host and aconite. Almost all onion crops will feel great here. For such places also suitable fern, girlish grapes, hydrangea.
There is another option: place indoor plants on the shady areas - tuber begonia, callas, balsamins, and in the fall take them home.
#
A small part of my garden is constantly in the shadow of the fence and the apple tree. What vegetables can be grown in this place? Do they need special care?
#
- The lack of light affects all vegetable plants. The less light that enters the plot, the worse the harvest will be and the stronger the plants will be prone to disease. It is better to place in that place a compost pile that will not dry out in the sun, or shade-tolerant ornamental plants (thujas, junipers, hosts, ferns, astilbe).
#
Once I discovered that lilies of the valley can be planted in shady and damp places where nothing practically grows. The perfect place is around the trees.
Most of all I was inspired by the fact that you can plant lilies of the valley before winter, which I did before last autumn. For planting I prepared grooves in the ground that was previously fertilized with humus and placed delenki (sprouts with roots, shared by a neighbor) there at a distance 10 cm from each other. Between the rows, I stood the distance in 20-25, see. It is impossible to thicken the plantings: the flowers may be affected by gray mold. After that, he grunted the surface.
Council
I do not recommend planting seeds of lilies of the valley: germination of almost all seeds is very low and flowers grow in that case for a very long time.
The autumn was warm and there were practically no frosts until the end of October. Covered with mulch, lilies of the valley had a good wintertime, and in the spring they pleased with abundant greens and flowers.
Why do I advise planting lilies of the valley in the fall? It's simple: if you do this in the spring, the sprouts will take a long time to take root, they will hurt and bloom only next year. In the fall, they will have time to form the root system before wintering, and in the spring, with a thaw, they will immediately grow.
If the soil at the planting site is acidified, add dolomite flour, ash, lime. There is nowhere to take care of lilies of the valley - I weed the area from weeds, water it if the soil dries up, and fertilize it with any organic matter, whether it is manure or compost. I believe that for a shady place in a summer cottage there is nothing better than lilies of the valley. But we must remember that these flowers fill the territory very quickly, so they need to be thinned out every 2 years.
#
Friends often ask to suggest plants that can be put into the room, and even the angle where sunlight rarely falls. There are such!
1. Dieffenbachia
For her perfect diffused light. It is even advisable to keep it behind the curtain. The plant is especially decorative in the spring-summer period, when bright tender leaves appear in the center.
2. Calathea
For the patterned leaves of this plant the sun's rays are dangerous. The best option for calathea is partial shade.
3. Chlorophytum crested
Very unpretentious, so it is loved by flower growers. The plant can do without the sun for a long time and not only will not be “offended”, but will continue to purify the air.
4. Dracaena marginata
Distinguished by the original coloring of the leaves - they are green with a reddish-purple border around the edges. The plant is very unpretentious and at the same time loves the shadow.
#
The recommendations for growing plants often include the concepts of “full illumination”, “penumbra” and “shadow”. How to determine compliance with these characteristics of specific areas?
#
Everyone knows that our star is moving from east to west during the day, because of which sunny areas in the first half of the day often end up in the shade. Thus, the places completely lighted throughout the daylight, where there are trees and bushes, fences and buildings, simply cannot be. Therefore, the term “full illumination” suggests something different: it extends to areas exposed to the direct sun for at least 6 hours.
In turn, the penumbra suggests direct sunlight from 4 to 6 hours per day.
If the earth "sees" the sun only less than 3 hours a day, then we can talk about full shadow.
Of course, such data can only be obtained by measuring the duration of sunlight. Moreover, it is best to do this twice a year, since the angle of incidence of sunlight varies depending on the season. Starting from spring, the height of the sun increases until mid-summer, after which it begins to decline. Accordingly, the “map” of the illuminance of the site changes. It is necessary to know this, since part of the crops is sown or planted in spring, and part in the second half of summer.
Measurements should be taken at nine in the morning, noon and three in the afternoon. The data is applied to three tracing papers with maps of the plot, where different areas are shaded with pencils of two colors: for example, illumination - red, shadow - blue. Further combination of cards makes it possible to draw up a single plan of illumination during the day. Places where only red is present are classified as fully lit, spaces where there are two red and one blue region are penumbra, and, finally, areas characterized by only blue are completely shaded. In accordance with this plan, as well as the agricultural technology of specific cultures, it is necessary to build our own gardening activities.