How to properly dissolve a tree on a band saw - PROFESSIONAL tips
DECKING OF WOOD ON THE TAPE SAW
WHY ALLOW THE WOOD?
The simplest answer is to get the most out of your workpiece. For example, instead of planing a board with a thickness of 25 mm to 10 mm, its dissolution will allow you to get two of the same size from one board. As an additional advantage, each of these boards will have almost the same fiber pattern, which will allow them to be put on the furniture lining (photo on the right). And if you dissolve 2 5 - mm board of wood of expensive species on veneer sheets with a thickness of 3 mm, this will allow to gain even more.
It is not always possible to predict how symmetric the sawed panels will be in the pattern. In principle, any wood fiber pattern has the potential to create a beautiful pattern, but choosing a blank with a particularly interesting pattern often brings the best results. See what was hiding inside the nondescript board that I used to check the adjustment of the band saw.
Note. Dissolution is the cutting of wood along the fibers, parallel to the plate.
For the first time I saw a wardrobe with a symmetrical pattern on the doors in the museum, at the exhibition of furniture of the XVII-XVIII centuries. Having considered these almost identical panels with a mirrored fiber pattern, I was struck by them. In those days, in my small basement workshop there was an old Craftsman band saw. Her “uniform size for all works” type of fabric allowed to make acceptable curvilinear cuts, but it was completely unsuitable for accurate loosening of lumber along the fibers, which I planned to do now. And, frankly, for accurate and stable work that saw needed not only a new canvas. Subsequently, I learned many lessons on how to handle any band saw. To set it up correctly, first of all, set the table strictly perpendicular to the saw blade, get the most out of the guides and make sure that the cutting direction is correct.
Take a cloth with a more aggressive cut. A blade with three teeth per inch and large grooves between them better removes sawdust that can cause bending and twisting of the cutting blade.
Keep the workpiece tightly pressed to the rail and to the table. A special pusher transmits the necessary clamping force to the guide and allows the hands to be at a safe distance from the web when it is dissolved.
Reference by topic: Band-saw with own hands for woodwork (photo)
After the band saw is well tuned, special attention should be paid to the saw band. Sawing wide boards requires a blade that evenly passes through the entire thickness of the workpiece, removing a large number of sawdust. The wider the blade, the straighter the cut, so try to use the widest blades that fit your saw.
Place the angle bracket at a distance of 6 mm from the saw blade (you may need to lift the protective cover to attach it) and press your finger on the middle of the blade. From the average force of pressure, the blade should touch the square.
In this photo, the saw blade is too far back on the upper drive wheel :, so the cut is deflected to the guide. If the canvas is too much displaced to the front edge of the wheel, this leads to the opposite result.
Most band saws work with at least 12 millimeter canvases, and many with even wider ones. As a rule, a wide blade with three teeth per inch of length (3 tpi) offers the perfect combination of aggressive, but smooth cutting with active removal of sawdust, which is required when dissolving wood. Finally, let's talk about guides. The blank for cutting should not exceed the height of the guide more than twice. For example, the 100 mm guide is suitable for dissolving a board with a width of 200 mm. If you need a high height, use the homemade additional guides.
DIVING THE TREE: FOR START, ATTENTION, MARCH!
Start by giving a rectangular shape to your billet and pruning a tree of similar size. With it, you can check how smoothly it lies on the saw table and how tightly it adjoins the guide, as well as adjust the settings of the band saw. Fasten the guide to the desired thickness of the saw and slowly feed the workpiece under the saw blade. The saw motor must rotate evenly without jamming. At the end of the cut, advance the workpiece with a pusher. Then inspect the sawed piece.
Reject the guide to the angle needed to align the cut. An adjusting bolt guide simplifies this task. You can also use magnetic guides (for example, Carter Magnafence: carterproducts. Com) - they noticeably facilitate this temporary adjustment.
If it is thicker in the upper or lower part, check the installation of the saw table strictly under 90 ° to the saw blade and, if necessary, adjust it.
If there is a hollow or bulge in the material, the problem may be the insufficient tension of the saw blade. On many saws, built-in tension regulators are characterized by unsatisfactory accuracy.
Here is a perfect example of a symmetrical fiber pattern. Such panels will make any furniture much more attractive than two simple thick panels from various boards.
A properly tensioned blade or blade should, when pressed in the middle, deviate by no more than 6 mm (photo above left).
Too high feed rate of the material under the canvas, the use of narrow blades with very frequent teeth or blunt blades can also cause such distortions when cutting. If one end of the sawed-off part turns out to be thicker than the other, the problem lies in the displacement of the blade, that is, the blade deviates from the parallel with respect to the guide.
If the blade is sharp, the guides are set correctly, the feed rate is selected correctly, but the problem is still not resolved, try adjusting the inclination of the upper drive wheel so that the saw blade runs exactly in the center of both wheels (photo above right).
If this does not produce the expected result, adjust the position of the guide to compensate for the blade deflection. Here is how it is done. Saw a block of wood under the rectangle that is similar in thickness and density to the wood you are planning to cut, and draw on it a pencil line parallel to the edge.
So that the blanks do not lead (to restore the moisture balance), it is best to lay them with slats. In this case, plywood trims were taken as rails. They should be positioned symmetrically, and pressed on top with a load to prevent the curvature of the panels during drying.
Without fixing the support in place, saw off the block along the marked line, holding it with your hands. Shortly before you reach the end of the cut, turn off the saw and, without moving the workpiece, draw a line along the edge of the saw blade with its pencil. Set the stop strictly parallel to this line (photo on the left) - this usually allows you to effectively compensate for mixing.
In general, every time I replace the saw blade, I check everything again and, if necessary, make the saw settings again.
See also: Drive for the band saw and its replacement with your own hands. Hydraulic drive and its need.
And some magic
When all verification operations are completed, time to proceed with the project itself. Rummaging through my lumber stocks, I found a piece of wood with an interesting fiber pattern, which I thought would look great in the form of 6 mm thick panels on the door of the jewelry storage cabinet.
I set the guide to a distance of 8 mm from the saw blade (6 mm plus 1,5 mm for subsequent grinding) and began to dissolve. I chose the feed rate in view of the density of the workpiece (it was an amber tree) and its width (approximately 18 cm). Checking the first piece sawed off showed that the saw set-ups were correct - and I sawed off the second piece. The resulting pair of front panels (photo below) is an excellent example of how beautiful the boards can be sawn.
After gluing the veneer to the substrate, the front side needs to be sanded. Multilayered plywood or MDF sheet are ideally suited to the substrate, since they are practically not susceptible to expansion and contraction with changes in humidity.
These svezheraspilennye parts still had to adapt to the level of humidity in the workshop, so I put them in a pile, paving the slats, for a day or two, so that they would not warp (photo above left). After that, I glued them and cut them off to the final thickness in 6 mm.
If I needed to get the veneer from the workpiece, my actions would be very different. I would adjust the guide for cutting sheets with a thickness of 3 mm, and before each new cut I would cut or grind the workpiece. This technique allows you to get on each sheet of veneer one smooth and even side, suitable for bonding. You see, and you thought that the band saw is only suitable for cutting out curved lines!
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