Durable hand-made railing - master class
Contents ✓
MANUFACTURING AND STRENGTHENING PERIL AT THE VILLAGE
How to make a RELIABLE HANDRAIL
WHEN IT HAD TO BE STRENGTHENED THE EXTENDED PROTECTION ON THE PORCH OF THE BATH, ALEXANDER STEPANOV USED STEEL HAIRPICKS, RELIABLY HANGING THE RACK PROTECTION TO THE CAST. LOOK AT HOW IT HAS DONE.
A few years ago I independently built a bathhouse with an entrance platform along the facade and a small porch of three steps. With time railing on the site loosened, and it was necessary to strengthen them.
HOW HELPED WERE COLLECTED EARLY
I built a bathhouse at construction with a blockhouse 150 mm wide. and from his remnants made a railing for the site. The blockhouse meter lengths sawed longitudinally in the center into two equal parts 60 mm wide, removing the grooves and spikes from the edges. By combining blanks using PVA glue and screws, he obtained balusters of trapezoidal section. The rest of the blockhouse was not enough for the whole fencing, so I bought some finished turned balusters.
The entire fence consists of four fragments (frames), which I assembled separately, and then installed around the perimeter of the site. Each fragment consisted of a base (board 20 mm thick), a handrail (blockhouse section) and balusters fixed between them. At the base I drilled holes through which I screwed long screws into the end of a baluster. The frames of the frames were screwed to the floor with screws, and fastened the enclosures in the corners together. Attached the side fences still to the bathhouse felling.
But on the porch of the baluster I fastened differently. I passed through them along meter studs (steel rods with a solid thread) 0 14 mm. From the bottom side of the steps, the studs are drawn with a nut and washer. Over time, it became clear that such a mount is much more reliable, and I decided to redo the railing at the site, fixing a part of the balusters with studs.
See also: Do-it-yourself wooden terrace - photo and step-by-step master class
GETTING UP TO PERIL REPAIR
First, I dismantled the old railing. The base and handrail let the firewood, retained only balusters. Sanded them, and selected those through which he was going to miss the studs, freed from old screws. The balusters were glued very firmly, we had to dissolve them with a saw along the connection line into two halves. On the saw machine, in each half, I made a groove of 7 * 17 mm so that after gluing the halves inside the baluster there was a channel of square section with a side of 14 mm-under the diameter of the stud. Made eight of these balusters, two for each piece of fencing.
For the base of the fence took the board section 100 * 40 mm. Processed them with a protective impregnation for wood. Marked centers balusters. Base boards secured in place with clamps. Using the drill stand, on the markup I drilled through holes, passing not only the baseboard, but also the floor of the site, and the bars on its sides. For studs with studs, I made holes 0 14 mm, for intermediate studs without X-NUMX 0 mm, and for corner and outer columns with balls at the top 6 0 mm for powerful screws (capes).
Under the side rails are parallel bars. The total thickness of the flooring -220 mm. I did not see wood grouses longer than 200 mm, so the racks of the fence fastened through the baseboard: balusters without studs with self-tapping screws 120 mm long and mm corner columns were wood grouser 180 mm long.
Base boards with balusters and corner posts installed in place and mounted studs, fastening the nuts from the bottom of the flooring. That the hairpin did not scroll, the nut had to be welded to it.
For balusters of the side railings, where the stud passes through the timber, I used large washers and nuts. For front balusters, instead of a washer, he took a steel plate, which he additionally fastened to the floor boards from below, which allows increasing the stiffness of the fence.
Set studs, posts and balusters without studs. Then he mounted the remaining balusters, putting them on the studs. To install the handrail (bar section 800 x 40 mm) I chose a longitudinal groove with a width of 60 mm and a depth of 15 mm in it. The corners of the railing processed figured cutter.
I already had two corner posts. When I went to the store to buy the missing ones, it turned out that there were no more for sale. I had to take others alike.
After assembling the railing, I treated them several times with impregnation to protect the wood. The same impregnation process the entire bath and gables.
See also: Do-it-yourself outdoor staircase to 2 floor - architect's advice
OVER HANDS - VIDEO
© Author: A. Stepanov, Khimki, Moscow Region
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS..
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