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NIGHT-LAMP (LED) OWN HANDS + ELECTRICAL SCHEME

This night light can burn all night and at the same time consume the minimum amount of electricity. It is very convenient for those who, for example, have to get up at night with a small child or get ready for work at a time when everyone else is still sleeping.

Based on an energy-saving light bulb 13 W, about 3 mm. It was decided to install only three 5630-0,5 LEDs operating at currents that are half the nominal, 70 mA.

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Compared with conventional incandescent dumps, LEDs are more economical 7-10 times. The lifetime of high-quality LED elements can be 10-15 years.

Naturally, there is no ready-made driver for such a device, so I had to develop it myself (Fig. 1). At the output, it gives out the order of 72 mA. The resistance R1 serves to discharge the capacitor С1. Resistance R2 - for quick quenching of the LEDs, a R3 - for eliminating inrush current and smoother switching.

For this scheme, a board was developed in Sprint-Layout (Fig. 2). Large arcs along the perimeter of the circuit must provide cooling for the LEDs (since the board on which the circuit will be assembled is made of fiberglass laminate).

Then the standard procedure followed: I glued together an envelope from writing paper (1 photo) so that the printer would not jam the tracing paper, and print the board with the maximum possible printing parameters of my printer (2 photo).

I processed the resulting drawing with an industrial hair dryer - this increases its contrast. Then he placed the board on the installation for exposure to light, having previously applied Positiv 20 to the board and kept the 40 in the oven for minutes. Then he moistened it with Transparent 21 (photo 3). Illumination was carried out for 40 minutes with an ultraviolet 26 W lamp (photo 4). After that, he cleaned the board in caustic soda and ferric chloride. Then washed and left for one hour in the "liquid tin" (photo 5).

The result is a board that still needs to be adjusted to fit the lamp body (photo 6). This was done with roofing scissors and a file.

After fitting on the iron, three LEDs were soldered onto the board (photo 7).

Then the internal (photo 8) and external (photo 9) fillings were mounted - R3 did not fit in such a small space. Capacitors are safely located in the base of the E27 lamp. Then, using a cyanoacrylate-based adhesive, glued a transparent cover (photo 10), since the circuit is not electrically isolated and high voltage is on the outside of the board.

The result was a light bulb with a power of approximately 0,62 W (photo 11).

Such a light bulb is enough to illuminate the entrance hall, the doors to the toilet and bathroom. Moreover, it almost does not consume energy, has a miniature size and at the same time shines very brightly. Great night light!

OWN LED LAMP - STEP-BY-STEP MASTER CLASS

1. If you do not put tracing paper in an envelope, then the printer will replace it.

2. Ready printout from the printer.

3. Required reagents for the manufacture of the board.

4. Lamp for illumination.

5. "Liquid tin" is an indispensable thing in the production of printed circuit boards.

6. The finished board, just need to fit under the case of an energy-saving lamp.

7. On the iron soldered three LEDs. 8. All large parts fit into the lamp base.

9. One resistor did not fit, so it was soldered on top.

10. A closed window is mandatory, since everything on the front side is under high voltage.

11. Light bulb of all 0,62 W, and shines wonderful!

Reference by topic: Ceiling lamp with LEDs and LED lines

LAMP ON LEDS OWN HANDS - PHOTOS

OWN LED LAMP - VIDEO

LED lamp with own hands

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With your own hands > Electrics and electronics > DIY lamp - photo and DIAGRAM

2 Comments

Yuri Afanasiev, Estonia
2019-10-18 (9:26) #

DIY wall lamp
The wall clock has served faithfully for many years. After a breakdown, I decided to give them a second life.
Dismantled the watch, removed the hands and mechanism, removed the dial. In a plastic base, I drilled 13 holes for 8 power LEDs, 4 LEDs d 8 mm and one LED power 1 W on the radiator. I fixed bulbs in superglue holes (photo 1). Since they are all of the same voltage (according to 3,5 V), connected them in parallel.
For the current stabilizer, I connected the finished LM 317 block to the circuit (photo 2) (can be ordered on the Internet), and to turn on the lamp, I connected a 12 V power supply to the output of the last I. I replaced the cooling radiator with a more powerful one on the finished LM 317 block, so that it does not overheat. He assembled the watch case and pasted a matte film onto the glass (photo 3) Now the “walkers” hang on the wall as before, but they’re not measuring the time already, but lighting up the room.

Igor Lashuk
2019-01-11 (18:02) #

On the landing often there are interruptions in lighting and this situation is familiar to many tenants of high-rise buildings. In the dark corridor to get the key into the keyhole is the whole problem. To solve it, applied a little trick.
I bought a small flashlight with batteries and installed it in the door frame at the level of the lock. To do this, I drew an installation diagram (see fig. On page 14). The diameter and length of the flashlight in the riser door frame drilled hole d 10 mm and depth 45 mm. I tried to install the flashlight in the "socket" - it did not work, the power button interferes, which, when pressed, does not hide completely.

He dug a file under the button with a needle file and the flashlight entered the hole. He took it back, measured the distance from the end with the lens to the button, and drilled a hole in the bar. Screw the switch on top of this hole (picked up from a broken toy) (see photo), set the flashlight again - the backlight is ready. Now, to get the key to the lock, simply press the button, the main thing in time to change the batteries.