The foundation for the greenhouse on the threaded studs with their own hands
Contents ✓
FOUNDATION UNDER THE GREENHOUSE BY OWN HANDS
THREAD SCREW - UNIVERSAL CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL. WITH HER HELP, IT IS POSSIBLE TO EASILY MAKE A FORMWORK FOR FILLING A BASE AND MOUNTING ON-BOARD REMOVALS IN THE GREENHOUSE.
For several years we used greenhouses under film, but over time we came to the conclusion that the number of seasonal works should be reduced. At the family council, the women decided that I should put something serious “once and for all” in order not to cover the sheds with polyethylene in the spring due to overgrown seedlings, despite the age and weather.
NEED THE FOUNDATION
We chose a greenhouse with a reinforced frame for cellular polycarbonate with dimensions of 2,5 x 6 m. It remained to consider the foundation device. He did not suit the relatively economical option with a bar: an untreated bar will not lie on the ground for a long time, but the processed one will “feed” our chemistry with chemistry. The brick foundation was also rejected due to bad experience at another site. In the end, chose a concrete tape.
WHAT TO USE AS A FORMWORK
A few years ago I happened to be present during the construction of the concrete foundations of two approximately identical houses near a reservoir. The formwork for the first of them was made of edged boards, which were then simply burned in the oven. And for the second they bought a flat slate, which served as a permanent formwork. The slate option was more expensive. But literally a year later, on the unprotected concrete of the first foundation climbed the moss, and after the second winter, chips appeared. The second was not treated with anything, and there were no such manifestations even after five years.
Reference by topic: How to make a metal foundation for a greenhouse
INSTALLATION OF FORMWORK
We bought sheets of flat slate 100 x 200 cm in size - they were cut lengthwise. For the sides of the beds we took slate strips 175 x 25 cm. Having thought over the design, I bought M8 studs, reinforced washers, bolts, nuts, angles and plates. They dug a trench with a width of 25 cm and a depth of 50 cm. The earth was thrown into the perimeter. A layer of sand -25 cm thick was poured into the trench and well spilled.
In the formwork sheets at a distance of 12 cm from the top edge and with a step of 50 cm, made holes 0 8 mm so that they coincide in the projection for the external and internal sheets. For this, I drew a formwork scheme, considering the width of the foundation and the thickness of the slate. Errors in 2-3 cm did not completely affect the quality of the foundation.
Stripes of slate were placed in the sand. The lower edge of the formwork was fixed inside with crushed stone, outside with stakes and improvised material. At the top, the slate was connected by plates, the outer side was attached to the inner stud with bolts. Long hairpins were used only in the walls along which the beds go.
After installing the slate walls, the width of the formwork and the horizontalness of the tape were checked. The width is easy to adjust with bolts, and the level with a rubber mallet and a trim board.
FITTINGS
When the formwork was set, the studs were placed on top between sheets of slate, and reinforcement was laid along the entire perimeter. She was fastened to each pin with knitting wire.
CONCRETE PACKING
I interfered with cement M500, sand and small crushed stone (“from sowing”) in the volume proportion 1: 2: 1. The last portion only interfered with the sand and made it liquid so that the upper plane of the tape could be straightened with a trowel.
After pouring the foundation, I cleared the middle part of the tile laying area. It’s better not to save on the width of the path - it will be much more convenient to take care of the plants. The width of the track and each bed in my case is 80 cm. Measured the middle and pulled the cord outlining the central axis of the track. Pre-cooked a couple of wheelbarrows of sifted sand.
The height of the side of the bed is 25 cm, but the tiles lie 3 cm above its lower edge, thereby fixing the lower part of the side. The middle of the bead is held by a long hairpin, the opposite edge of which "works" with the formwork retainer.
Slate strips (sides of 1 beds), as well as formwork walls, are interconnected by bolt plates. In them, as well as in the formwork, holes are drilled every 50 see.
The studs are threaded through the sides and secured with nuts with reinforced washers. If the sides deviate from the vertical position during operation, it is always easy to “cure” with a wrench. For those who are particularly concerned about their health, it is recommended to paint the slate surfaces with facade paint.
THE FOUNDATION FOR THE GREENHOUSE IN OUR HANDS - VIDEO
© Author: M Kovalev, Moscow
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