How to improve the design of the greenhouse and the greenhouse - my tips
IMPROVEMENT OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF GREENHOUSES AND GREENHOUSES - PROS AND CONS
Thanks for the rubric "Greenhouses and greenhouses".
I had glass, metal and wooden greenhouses, then switched to polycarbonate, so I studied in detail what was done and how, what advantages and disadvantages are. For some reason nobody writes about shortcomings.
Consider the 4 constructs and start with greenhouse arcs. They have two drawbacks: when a strong wind blows, the film swells up like sails, and when it rains it sags and falls on the plants, it is necessary to repeatedly drain the water.
What to do?
We cut 8 arcs along 25 cm from the wire, hook it on one side and insert 6 pieces on the sides of the greenhouse, pressing it all the way to the ground.
We take a copper wire, rigid, single-core (we can’t remove the core!), Stick the remaining two pins into the ground from the ends, we wind the wire onto the pin and in the middle of each arc - we make a circular winding, and so all the arcs one by one.
On the last we lower the wire to the pin, tighten, twist and bite off with side cutters. We do this work when the seedlings are already planted in a greenhouse. We cover with film, we stretch it, we press to the ground with pipes or bricks.
We cut off three ropes, make loops at the ends, throw them over the greenhouse and throw them on the hooks.
Greenhouses in the form of a house and a tent - the same two problems. I took metal pipes 0 20 mm (6 pcs.), Clamped three sections of 20 cm in a vice and bent at an angle of 90 °. These three straight sections will go to the middle of the greenhouse. Then I cut 0 metal rods of 10 1 mm each (4 pcs.), And others 75 cm (8 pcs.).
On the bars with a vice, I made one side of the ring so that the pipes could enter. Then he took a metal bar 014, cut 6 segments of 20 cm, inserted them into pipes on 10 cm (in those that are bent at an angle), and placed the second 10 cm at the ends of straight pipes and knocked it with a hammer so as not to jump out.
Building a greenhouse takes 10 minutes. First, I insert meter pins in the center of the ground, then side 4 units. in a row (by 5 cm). Then I take three pipes with curved ends and insert them from the end of the greenhouse.
Then I take three straight pipes and in the middle join them (if necessary, level the greenhouse with a hammer blows on the ring). I take the copper wire and, starting at the end of the greenhouse, wind the wire on a metal pipe, transfer it through the greenhouse to the other end, twist it and throw it over to the second half. Then I make a zigzag winding, throw it through a greenhouse (we don’t wind it in the middle!), Wind it up on a pipe, bite it with side cutters and remove the ends of the wire inside. I put pins with hooks on 3 pieces into the ground on each side, cover with a film, stretch it, press it and throw a rope with rings on the hooks. Greenhouses are flat, stretched, protected from wind and sagging.
Greenhouse tent all good, but it lacks a zigzag wire so that the film does not sag during the rain, and everything is fine.
The greenhouse is wooden. Three drawbacks. First: there are no braces, because of the snow and wind, the greenhouse may break. It is necessary to put braces in the corners, only 8 pieces. The second: sagging film after the rain, swelling it both inwards and outwards. It is necessary in the squares of the greenhouse from the inside on the sides, from the ends and under the roof to twist in the corners of the hooks, self-tapping screws or rings of self-tapping screws. Then take a thicker fishing line, fasten it to the rings with the letter X and stretch the greenhouse around the perimeter.
Third: swelling of the film in the outer side of the greenhouse. It is necessary to screw the self-tapping screws into the boards through the film and tighten the ropes or copper wire across the roof across, take the plastic bottle caps, drill holes in them from the inside, insert the screws, tighten and tighten the film around the perimeter. As a result, the greenhouse is not skewed, there are no dips in the film, it does not inflate.
Polycarbonate greenhouses. Many write that they break and fold. Yes, the same thing happens for us, and for some other summer residents too. People come for advice and ask what can be done. But nothing - there are no braces!
For example, metal greenhouse. It can be seen that the braces are welded in the corners - wonderful! And you want your greenhouse made of thin metal strips to withstand a powerful load of snow! Of course, it will take shape.
By the way, I advise you to see "Walking support." Just put the braces on the sides of the greenhouse and at the ends where the doors are. For example, for 15 years now I have had two greenhouses (3 × 6 and 3 × 4 m) without any errors.
In the photo in ARTICLE “Potato planter” you can see that the brace in the greenhouse stands straight, but I changed it a bit, as the handle of the motor-cultivator clings to the bar and can injure your hand.
I cut and screwed it from the bottom of the 40 to the greenhouse, and attached the bottom to this bar. The design went a little bit into the recess, but this did not affect its rigidity (see fig.). And who is digging with a shovel, you don’t need to change anything at all.
I also added the sides of the greenhouse, sawed out from an aluminum corner, along 6 corners on each side and drilled 0 4 and 8 mm holes in them. In these corners inserted antenna wire 8 (old sample). Tomatoes are tied up with a string to this antenna wire. We plant varieties Peter the Great F1, Gina, President, Irina, Summer Resident, Pertvidny. I bring to the greenhouse on wagons in bags and plastic flasks; the snow on the roof does not linger.
Last year, neighbors in the area welded the greenhouse with a house, only the roof was lowered lower. Also good.
I wish you all success in work and leisure!
Never throw away the "extra" parts from greenhouses, collect everything strictly according to the instructions!
© Author: Sergey Nikolaevich KAKTURSKIY. Moscow
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
Below other entries on the topic "How to make your own hands - a householder!"
- DIY crafts for the garden from propylene PVC pipes
- Do-it-yourself automatic irrigation system for a greenhouse: drawing
- Do-it-yourself greenhouses and greenhouses - valuable advice from gardener readers (4 Collection)
- Do-it-yourself additional warming of the greenhouse
- Heating the greenhouse with your own hands: warm and air and soil
- Do-it-yourself greenhouse for cucumbers and greenhouse for tomatoes
- Do-it-yourself cover for a polycarbonate spunbond greenhouse
- DIY greenhouse - how to make a portable greenhouse yourself
- Mini greenhouse with own hands (photo)
- Application of nonwovens
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
Is it always necessary to close the greenhouse at night?
When I do this, in the morning I find a lot of condensation on the walls.
On warm July nights you should not completely shut the greenhouse or greenhouse.
#
It is necessary to leave open two window leaves from both ends. A small draft prevents condensation. Yes, and light plant vibrations will contribute to their pollination. But in August, with the onset of cold nights, the "house" for plants should be closed. After all, the cold and moist air entering inside will contribute to the development of late blight in tomatoes and peronosporosis in cucumbers.
#
In order to always have “Africa” in the greenhouse, I used heat accumulators.
He painted 1,5-liter plastic bottles with black paint, poured water into them and dug along the beds! There were not enough bottles, he laid out large stones, which were also painted black. Now, in the afternoon, my generators heat up from the sunlight, and give off heat at night, thanks to which the plants are not afraid of return frosts. And if the weather is very hot in the summer, I cover the bottle with a white spunbond during the day and night, because overheating of tomatoes and peppers is not needed.
I will share one clever advice with readers. PVA glue often dries on the bottle thread, which is why
difficult to unscrew the cover. To prevent its thread from soaking with glue, cover the vial with a small piece of dense polyethylene and spin it over it. The thread will be safe, and the bottle of glue will easily open next time!