Coop with your own hands from A to Z
Contents ✓
- ✓ HEATING A PLAWNER
- ✓ POPULATORS IN THE COURTLE OWN THEIR OWN HANDS
- ✓ FEEDERS AND DRINKS
- ✓ NEST FOR HENS
- ✓ ENTRANCE TO THE POOL WITH OWN HANDS
- ✓ LAZA
- ✓ VENTILATION
- ✓ HEATING POOLER
- ✓ LIGHTING
- ✓ INTERIOR FINISH
- ✓ LIGHT AND HEAT IN THE KURYATNIK: WHERE THE GOLDEN MEAN
- ✓ OWN HAND CHICKENHOUSE - CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND FROM BIRDS
- ✓ CHICKEN HOUSE IN OUR HANDS - VIDEO
THE RIGHT HOOKER OWN HANDS
Having decided to breed chickens in my farm, I first of all engaged in the study of issues making a chicken coop with your own hands. And the more I immersed myself in the topic, the more discoveries I made for myself. Looking back and knowing how much information has been processed, I want to simplify the task of those who will face it for the first time, and I am happy to share the knowledge and experience I have gained.
We will not consider the option of keeping chickens to get eggs and meat for sale, since this is already a mini farm and special requirements for it. In the usual chicken coop hens are kept outdoor with the possibility of walking. Yes, and the owner once make so much effort to care for the bird, how much it is spent on farmers who receive income from the poultry industry. Here it is much more important to receive tasty and healthy eggs from their chickens all year round.
HEATING A PLAWNER
It is known that the chickens of most breeds reduce egg-laying with a decrease in temperature, and at low temperatures they can stop nesting at all. Therefore, the chicken coop must be insulated. To this end, I adhered to building codes for residential premises in my climate zone.
According to the same principle, the ceiling or roof should be insulated, if the chicken coop is without an attic. The height of the ceiling 2,2 m from the floor will be quite enough.
The floor is also insulated and raised from ground level. I preferred to make a concrete screed on the insulation that prevents the penetration of rodents, and on top I laid linoleum, which serves as insulation, and cleaning with it is much more convenient.
Depending on the regional energy saving requirements, windows should have double-glazed windows with 2 or 3 glasses. The area of the window is selected from 1 / 10 to 1 / 5 from the floor area (the larger the window, the brighter, but also more heat loss). In the window it is desirable to provide a window for airing with an opening limiter, and the window itself should be closed with a net so that the bird does not go out for a walk through the open window and does not suit the roost on the windowsill.
See also: Chicken coop with your hands on stilts - photo and its advantages
POPULATORS IN THE COURTLE OWN THEIR OWN HANDS
Perches should be located in the bright part of the chicken coop. They are ideally suited for wooden blocks of rectangular cross section with slightly rounded corners. If the corners are not rounded, then the birds will crash into the dads, and on round poles the chickens are forced to balance all night, which makes them sleep worse, and as a result, irritability appears, peeling, and egg laying is reduced. Perches from bars with a section of 4x5-5x7 cm (depending on the size of the hens).
If the perches are made up a ladder, the bird will try to sit as high as possible, which will cause conflicts and fights. For this reason, it is better to have roosts parallel to each other. The height of the perches also depends on the breed. Egg birds of the egg breed can fly up to 1 m and higher, but for heavy meat, egg or meat, it is better to limit 30-35 height from the floor, otherwise, jumping off the perch, the heavyweight can damage the paws. A flat ladder is attached to the perches, the steps of which should be arranged as often as possible so that the bird can simply walk on it.
Since the concentration of the litter is maximum under the perches, it is best to make drawers from the bottom. it's easier to clean, and at the same time it will provide an opportunity to get a clean fertilizer without impurities of grain, sawdust and straw. I made small boxes of sheet metal retractable, which greatly simplified cleaning.
On the boxes you need to put a metal mesh with a mesh size of 2,5 × 2,5 cm to 5 × 5 cm. It will prevent the chickens from falling from perches, smeared in the litter, and at the same time will not allow them to poke around there. It is necessary to provide that the bird is not injured on the edges of the net (for example, fix wooden slats around the perimeter).
The height from the net to the perch poles is 10-30 cm. The horizontal distance from the wall to the perches is at least 25 cm, between perches - at least 30 cm, and from the protruding edge of the pallets for collecting litter to perches - at least 20 cm.
It is desirable to provide a “landing zone” near the perches and not to occupy it with anything. Even if there is a ladder, some chickens will still jump to the floor, and not go down it.
FEEDERS AND DRINKS
Feeders and drinkers should also be located in the lighted place of the house and be easily accessible for filling and cleaning. In order not to be damp in the chicken coop, it is necessary to provide tanks for collecting spilled water under the drinkers.
If it is planned to use suspended feeders or drinkers, then during the construction of the chicken coop, appropriate structures (beams, crossbars, etc.) should be provided.
NEST FOR HENS
Nests should be located in the shaded place. So that no one bothers chickens, it is advisable to raise the bottom row of nests from the floor or perches (if they adjoin) to a height of at least slightly higher than the height of the bird. But under them you can put a box of sand and ash, where the bird will bathe. A take-off bar is made in front of the nests - a perch that retreats only 10 cm from the nests so that the chickens do not use it as a perch. It is also advisable to attach a ladder to each tier so that hens can not only take off, but also go to the nests.
The 20x 20 hole is enough to enter the nest; cm, the lower boundary of the nest entrance should be higher than the bottom by 10 cm, and the inside space of the nest should be at least 30x30x30 cm, but the larger the chickens, the larger the nests should be. A sloping cover is made above the upper nests, on which the bird cannot comfortably sit. Since the nests will have to look quite often, it is best to locate them near the entrance.
ENTRANCE TO THE POOL WITH OWN HANDS
If you have cold winters, then it is advisable to make the entrance to the chicken coop with a vestibule or to veil the opening from the inside with a thick cloth. The entrance to the area for the bird is desirable to raise from the floor at 15 cm, so that litter and litter do not spill out. From the outside of the house, the door should be above ground level so that in winter it will not be covered with snow.
LAZA
Climbing holes, too, must be raised to prevent them from falling asleep with snow. They need to be placed in the hen house so that there is no draft in the area of the roost. Ideally, manholes for chickens are made in the eastern wall of the hen house, but it can be done from other sides besides the north.
The sizes of manholes are 40 × 40 cm, but for a large bird it is possible and more. Outside the openings, a door is installed that will protect the chicken coop at night from the penetration of predators and rodents. On the inside, in severe frosts, an additional insulated door is installed, which provides better thermal insulation, and in cool weather the manholes are hung with strips of thick film or thin rubber, through which the hens can freely pass into the chicken coop, and the cool air will partially be cut off.
Depending on the size of the breed on 1 square. m floor chicken coop is located 3-7 heads.
VENTILATION
If air will enter the house through a window and manholes, exhaust ventilation must be provided separately. The hood can be made natural or forced, but it is necessary to calculate its effectiveness, because the chicken coop is a room with high humidity and a concentration of harmful gases.
HEATING POOLER
Heating in poultry houses can be used differently: water, electric, furnace. The main thing is to keep heat sources safe (ovens, convectors, infrared lamps should be kept away from the birds with a net) and effective. Personally, I used an electric convector with a thermostat. When the temperature in the house rises to the preset level, the thermostat turns off the heating. This allows significant savings on heating.
LIGHTING
The main lighting in the chicken coop is sunlight penetrating through a window that should be located on the south side, and ideally on the southwest side.
You should also provide additional lighting in the house for the winter period, because the chickens are most efficiently carried at a certain length of daylight hours (depending on the breed, this period can be up to 16 h per day). For these purposes, you can use several light sources, which must be well illuminated trough and drinkers, but should not shine in the nest.
Too bright lighting can cause aggression in chickens, so it is recommended for the house with an area of 10-15 square. m use one incandescent lamp with a power of 60 W or some less bright. LED bulbs should be selected with warm light and the same performance indicators. All light sources must be covered by shades.
You can apply the experience of the poultry farms, where in the morning the light does not turn on immediately at full brightness, but gradually. In the evening, it gradually fades away. Not all light sources allow this idea to be realized, so I used an additional line in the scheme with a dim light bulb for the dawn-sunset mode. After automating the whole process, I got the following: one timer turns on a dim bulb in the morning, after 10-15 minutes the second timer turns on the main lighting in the chicken coop, and when the sun rises, artificial lighting becomes unnecessary and it is turned off by the photo relay installed on the facade. In the evening, everything happens in reverse order. Also in the chicken coop provides for the possibility of the forced inclusion of light at any time of day (see diagram).
INTERIOR FINISH
The ceiling and walls of the chicken coop are usually whitewashed. It reflects light well, and is also an additional method of disinfection and disinsection, because the house is whitewashed with freshly diluted quicklime with the addition of copper sulfate.
Some poultry farmers cover the walls with light tiles, which simplifies the process of cleaning and processing the house. With the same purpose, I recommend to make all designs quick-detachable and collapsible. In my poultry house during the harvesting, I just stand up to the perch, ladders, litter trays and so on. out into the yard and my hose, and while it dries, I scoop out the litter (not more than once a year) and the white walls and ceiling.
See also: Mini-chicken coop on stilts with own hands (photo)
LIGHT AND HEAT IN THE KURYATNIK: WHERE THE GOLDEN MEAN
If a hen starts egg-laying early, then it often carries small eggs, starts “to pour” them early, this may cause future oviduct proliferation and other problems. Accordingly, a good poultry farmer will not accelerate the ripening of a bird, but will enable its body to fully develop.
And the lighting plays an important role in this.
For normal poultry body formation, it is recommended that at least a couple of months in the process of rearing young stock, it should be kept at a short 9-hour daylight.
COLOR ALSO MEANS
Daylight hours are not the only lighting factor affecting the bird. A number of studies are known regarding the effects of color lighting on chickens. In particular, broilers grown from green to violet have shown good muscle growth. In my chicken coop, the main lighting is sunlight, so I left the artificial light sources white. But I know that some poultry farmers actively use colored light sources, their reviews confirm the results of scientific research.
With a duration of daylight hours 12 and more, the bird may begin premature egg-laying.
But what if in May all the chickens walk in the open air, and the daylight hours are rather long? Do not drive the same bird before the evening in the chicken coop and curtain all the windows? And if at the same time chickens of other ages live in it, which, because of this, can reduce the egg-laying regime? I found such a way out of this situation.
Most Egg Chickens begin egg laying at the age of 4-6 months, meat and egg - at 5-8 months.
Accordingly, in order not to provoke a premature onset of egg-laying, I try to ensure that the second half of this age falls on a decreasing light day. That is, until the day of the summer solstice (20-21 of June) the chickens were no older than 3 months. But I try and do not delay the conclusion of the young, so that the first years can start laying eggs by the time the overcrowded chickens start shedding and reduce the laying of eggs, or stop rolling altogether.
FAMOUS THAT SIMHO chickens rush very badly or not at all. With a short natural daylight they spend more time on their perches, unable to eat. Accordingly, the entire winter night their body supports the food that they managed to eat before bedtime, and besides, some of the energy goes into generating heat. It is logical to assume that nutrients may simply not remain on the formation of eggs.
A chicken needs a certain period of wakefulness when an egg is formed in her body. Depending on the breed, it can be 23 hours, and 30 hours, etc. In egg chickens, eggs form faster, so they rush more often, in meat chickens - slower.
Thanks to such lighting and heating modes in my mixed herd, I get the following results.
In the fall, overheated meat and egg chickens almost do not rush, and the egg significantly reduces egg-laying, while the young ones are gaining momentum. That is, during this period, eggs are provided mainly by pullets and adult hens of egg breeds.
In winter, all feathery begin to rush. The length of daylight hours and the air temperature for egg breeds are few, they are moderated moderately (I give them a rest). But the meat-egg peel like a machine gun.
By the summer, meat and egg breeds are tired, some continue to cry out, and sometimes they languish from the heat, respectively, their productivity becomes less. But then the hens of egg breeds rested during the winter rush almost without interruption.
But in general, in winter, chickens are literally flooded with eggs, while at many owners they do not rush.
In the spring, meat-egg chickens gradually begin to cluck, taking breaks in egg-laying, while the rate of egg-laying in egg-breeds, which need a longer light day, gradually increases.
Some poultry farmers, wanting to speed up the process of egg formation, turn on the lighting in the chicken house around the clock to get maximum productivity from the hens. But it should be remembered that under such conditions, the bird's body wears out quickly, round-the-clock lighting causes stress in the bird, which can result in the termination of egg laying or, worse, cannibalism in the herd.
Ideally, you should stick to a certain length of day during the productive period, then your chickens will be flooded with an egg, even in winter. Depending on the breed, this figure varies within 12-184.
In a mixed herd, I have to pick up something in between. If there is enough sunlight in the summer, then by the fall it is getting smaller, but at this time it is better not to add artificial lighting. Let all young pullets ripen in a natural rhythm, and overfished chickens will quietly throw off the old and grow a new plumage.
AS A RULE, IN OCTOBER-NOVEMBER almost all the pullets, bred at the end of March, are already rushing, so during this period I begin to increase the light day. The bird's body reacts to this as the onset of spring: egg-laying increases in chickens, and roosters become more active. But you can never increase the light day sharply, so as not to cause stress. According to the recommendations, chickens normally transfer the addition of daylight by no more than 15-30 minutes per week.
I proceed as follows. The first increase is done immediately by half an hour (15 minutes in the morning, 15 minutes in the evening), and then I add 4 minutes every 5-15 days
(also part in the morning and part in the evening) until the light day is equal to 12 h. After that, I increase the light day once a week with 15 minutes, keeping the bird in an active “spring” mood until the eggs are laid in the incubator. After that, I continue to add only 10 mines in 7-10 days until about mid-April.
WHAT IS TEMPERATURE, then here, too, it all depends on the breed of bird. For some egg breeds with their accelerated biorhythms, the temperature 15 ° may already be quite low. And some can stop laying eggs already at 10 °. It is good when breeding 1-2. But what about a mixed herd? Over time, I came to the conclusion that the ideal temperature in the chicken coop during the cold period is 12-14 °. This affects a certain decrease in egg-laying of egg chickens, but if the temperature is above 15 °, the meat-bearing breeds begin to actively hatch the eggs. And this should not be tolerated, since at that time they no longer rush.
When the temperature in the street falls closer to zero, I stop chickens on the paddock and preserve the chicken coop for the whole winter.
© Author: E. Moskalev, poultry breeder
OWN HAND CHICKENHOUSE - CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND FROM BIRDS
DOUBLE-STORED CHICKEN
One of my activities is raising chickens to sell eggs. To do this, there are all the necessary conditions, there are rooms, feeders, lighting. But once, deciding to increase the number of laying hens, I ran into a problem: it was nowhere to place a new livestock.
It was a little expensive to build another barn, and there was not much space left on the site.
Sealing the number of chickens is not an option. The norm of 5 birds per 1 sq. m not invented by us and scientifically substantiated. Then I decided to make the second floor for the hens in the old barn.
The material for the construction of the walls served as foam blocks. In them I hammered nails under the supporting bars, on the other hand, these same bars went to the supports and cross members.
The floor of the second floor was assembled from 25 mm boards. Since chickens are not heavy, it makes no sense to make a thorough construction for them. The length of the floor corresponds to the length of the wall. And I made a width of about 75 cm (photo 1). This is the optimal size, which makes it easy to carry out floor cleaning and egg collection in the future.
Also equipped on the second floor perches for birds. For the convenience of the birds, he built small stairs (photo 2), which facilitate their ascent to the "attic". Although the chicken is still a bird, it flies up without special problems.
In such a simple way, I managed to increase the number of birds by 1,5 times without building a new barn,
© Author: D. Dyakonov, farmer
CHICKEN HOUSE IN OUR HANDS - VIDEO
© Author: E. Moskalev Kursk
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
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DIY mini-poultry house on wheels
For walking feathered nurses I made a corral on wheels from scrap materials. The structure does not take up much space and is easy to move around the site.
After repairing the canopy, four bent pipes remained. I assembled from them, welded in pairs, two base frames (photo 1) I reinforced the welded corner on each with crossbeams, fixing them with bolts. Then he connected them at the ends and bottom with scraps of boards, which he had previously cut into the desired size.
The resulting wooden-metal frame was sewn up with a chain-link mesh, securing it to the crossbars with wire (photo 2). At one end, between the bars, I installed a door on the hinges. On the same side, I attached a wheel axle from an old cart to the crossbars of the base. The mobile enclosure is ready.