Wooden paths in the country with your own hands - how and from what
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HOW TO MAKE THE WALLS FROM THE TREE OWN HANDS
Dry, clean, durable and beautiful garden paths are a must for a country site, especially in a wet and cold climate. To create them, it is not at all necessary to spend a lot of manpower and resources, arranging concrete or paved surfaces. Regular wood will allow you to quickly make your own attractive and inexpensive tracks.
Wooden paths will be appropriate on the slopes, in wet places, on compressible peat soils. Such coverage will be inexpensive, and its device will not turn the site for a long time into a construction site. But most importantly, a warm and beautiful tree will delight you and your loved ones while walking along such paths barefoot. In the rain they will not be puddles, because of the high location above the ground level, they will not get dirt, and in winter they will not drown in snowdrifts.
For many centuries, wood has been used to improve the quality of pavement. In the swamps and swamps, they laid gati from connected roundwood, in the cities the pavements were made of round or multifaceted wooden sabers, which were previously burned, kept in water.
See also: Garden paths - materials and design options (photo)
In the villages, roads and sidewalks were traditionally made of boardwalk.
Nowadays, wood is widely used for landscape design: garden paths
they are made of antiseptic sleepers dug into the ground lying on gravel drain pads. The service life of this design with the correct processing of wood may not be so small - 20-25 years. And in a warm and dry climate, and even more.
But in a wet and cold climate, the optimal design is a wooden walkway, elevated above the ground on the foundations and logs. This will allow it to remain dry and clean even in the worst climatic conditions.
The choice of the type of foundation for the track depends on the type of soil. On sandy and stony soils, it is enough to tamp the base, make a small embankment, tamp it down, put sleepers treated with non-washable antiseptic with 1,5 m pitch and install logs on them. When constructing wooden tracks on top of old asphalt or concrete logs, it can be laid directly on a waterproofing layer on a solid base.
It is better to use screw piles as a foundation on compressible and high-lining soils, on slopes and flooded areas - this will stabilize the track surface regardless of the vertical movement of soils.
On stable soils in most cases, the foundation can be made of reinforced concrete beams. For such purposes, ideal, for example, standard nadproemny jumpers.
The track of the future track is marked with the help of a twine and pegs. The top fertile layer is removed from the ground and the trench is torn either under the entire track or just under the foundation beams. The base is rammed, and the removed soil is replaced with coarse sand or rubble, which is also compacted. Geotextiles are spread over, preventing weed growth.
The level sets the foundation beams. Their position can be fixed by breaking the ground with reinforcement, or fixed by pouring concrete. Lags are installed on top of the waterproofing layer.
Lags are spliced in length with the help of wooden linings. To prevent tipping, their lag is either attached to the foundation beams with steel corners, or fixed with transverse wooden spacers on the rails, after which they cross the boards. Boards are presoaked in non-washable antiseptic type XM-11. The edges of the boards are best done with a bevel - for more intensive removal of moisture. You can also use impregnated, heat treated, pre-split or composite boards. They are stitched in 5-10 mm pitch to ensure the removal of precipitation, sand and small stones.
For fixing use galvanized or stainless steel screws or nails.
Boards are cut to size immediately or do it in place, especially when constructing curved paths. You can also foresee the removal under the lamps.
Required Tools
Shovel; ramming or vibroplatform; electric planer; a circular saw; drill puncher; screwdriver; level; hammer: sledgehammer: knife; tassels; protective glasses.
Necessary materials
Sand; crushed stone; cement; twine: pegs: screws: nails; polymer-bitumen waterproofing; geotextiles;
reinforced concrete beams, or screw piles, or sleepers; boards for log: boards for flooring; steel corners; antiseptic.
The path of the wooden ends
Pavement of six-sided wooden checkers.
Rustic wooden walkway.
Wooden walkway.
Scorching ends for wooden tracks
The tracks from the dug sleepers.
Decorative track of the sleepers.
A simplified version of the support for the track without a foundation.
Standard reinforced concrete lintels are an excellent foundation for a wooden walkway.
Geotextiles will prevent the growth of weeds through the track and will strengthen the base from erosion by precipitation.
Installation and waterproofing lag for the track.
Splicing of log logs.
Stripe boards on the logs.
Carrying out for the installation of illuminators.
Finished wooden walkway.
See also: From what you can make tracks in the country with their own hands - photo
OWNED WOODEN WAYS - VIDEO
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
Below other entries on the topic "How to make your own hands - a householder!"
- DIY garden path - with mulch
- DIY pallet garden path
- Budget curbs for the flower garden with their own hands
- Construction of a walkway with concrete slabs - technology
- From what you can make tracks in the country with their own hands - photo
- Do-it-yourself paving slabs - shapes and vibration tables (drawings)
- The budget garden path with your own hands from broken tiles - PHOTOS
- Always clean paths in the country with their own hands
- Decorative walkway with your hands (+ photo)
- A path in the garden: paving with pebbles or stones (cobbles) - photo and work progress
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Between the rear entrance to the house and the lawn lawn after the repair of the sewer and transplantation of the shrub, an area of open land was formed. After rains, dirt got into the room. I laid out a temporary wooden passage in this place.
I cleared and leveled the area from the blind area to the lawn. Its width was determined, focusing on the length of the bars with which I decided to lay out the transition. Excess sand removed outside the site.
On a tamped surface, he laid closely a series of bars pre-impregnated with an antiseptic with a section of 80 × 40 mm. On both sides of it he laid out stones, set an old kettle and a metal bucket as a decoration. The wife planted flowers. As a result, at minimal cost we got a small "portal" from home to garden.