Do-it-yourself porch made of wood - master class (+ PHOTO)
Contents ✓
PORCH HOUSE OWN HANDS
CHOICE AND CALCULATION OF THE PORCH DESIGN
It should start with a general concept and layout. Steps, risers and balustrades are simply obliged to fit into the overall design of the whole house and the existing open terrace.
At this stage it is very important not to be lazy and make all the necessary measurements. There are no trifles here. In addition to the dimensions of the porch, we check the horizontal level of the floor, measure the dimensions of the handrails and balustrade beams, overhangs of treads, cross-section of the pillars and much more.
Since the terrace already has a bright floor, and the balustrade is made in the form of intersecting beams, it was decided that the steps and balustrades of the porch would be made in the same way. Therefore, in our case, the option with light steps and a dark base was chosen. The following is a little math and calculations.
In order to build a porch, it is necessary to calculate the number, height and width of the steps. The width of the step is taken as the distance from the riser to the edge of the tread. It should be remembered that an acceptable step height is from 160 to 190 mm. tread widths are from 220 to 330 mm.
It would seem that everything is simple, but in our case directly in front of the porch there was an obstacle in the form of a beautiful and tall pine. Because of this, the total width of all the treads turned out to be a bit limited, but on the whole we completely met the dimensional standards: the height of our steps was 175 mm, and the width of the treads was 290 mm. The total number of steps was chosen to be four (with the fourth step being the level of the terrace floor itself).
After the calculations, you should think about what design the ladder itself will be - on a bowstring or on kosoura. A bit of theory. A bowstring is a solid supporting structure, in other words, a thick plank or glued board, to which steps are fastened from the inside by various means. Kosour is a stepped design, and tread put on top of them. In our case, the length of the tread was almost two meters, and therefore additional support was required in the middle of the march. That is why the design of the flight of stairs, made on kosoura was chosen.
Roof supports. Installed on the terrace, have a cross section of 150 x 150 mm. therefore, it was decided to make the supporting posts for the balustrade hollow out of a board 150 mm wide. in order not to weigh down the structure, as well as to simplify their installation.
See also: Porch with a visor with your own hands
PORCH OWN HANDS - BEGINS BEGIN
So, the general concept and design are defined, you can begin to build a porch. And you should start any construction from the foundation. Since no large loads on the porch were foreseen, it was decided to make the foundation of the porch in the form of a cement screed directly on the ground reinforced with a road net. The size of the tie along the length was the same length of the porch, and the width — its width plus one tread.
For a given size was selected a small part of the soil. and then low formwork is laid out and assembled.
Here, special attention should be paid to such a moment: there must be a distance between the so-called zero of the foundation and the level of the upper stage. equal to the number of steps in height. In our case, this is 175 mm x 4 = 700 mm.
Another aspect is the horizontal width of the screed. Do not rely on intuition, do not hesitate to use the level! In the middle of the formwork lay reinforcing road mesh and fix it. Fill with cement mortar from the universal mixture. The thickness of the resulting screed was about 60 mm.
Separately poured basement areas under the supporting pillars. In the selected hole 150 x 150 x 150 mm lowered the rolled-up remnants of the road mesh for reinforcement and filled with a universal mixture. For preservation, the completed screed should be covered with plastic wrap.
UNDER SOLUTION DOES REMAIN
Until then, until the cement screed does not gain sufficient strength, it is impractical to carry out work on it. In the meantime, the screed dries out, we do another job — we make pillars and prepare skewers.
For kosour were used remnants of larch timber. The main advantage of this wood is that it is practically not subject to rotting, and therefore we hope that kosoura made of larch, will last for many years. Assembling a kosour from a bar is not particularly difficult. The main thing - to keep dimensions. Here it is important to consider not only the width of the tread, but also the thickness of the riser. as well as the amount of overhang.
First we saw off the piece of timber corresponding to the upper part. It is equal to the width of the tread minus the size of the overhang of the stage. Then we cut off the middle part, equal to twice the width of the tread plus the thickness of the riser and minus the overhang. We make holes for the self-tapping screws with an extended drill, then we cut them under the cap of the fastener. The surfaces to be joined are lubricated with carpentry glue for exterior work and we tighten the two parts with long screws.
In the same way, we cut and fasten the third, longest part of the kosour. Remove excess glue and wait until it is completely dry, then grind the part.
While glued stitches dry. can do the supporting pillars. They must have the same cross section as the roof pillars, i.e. 150 x 150 mm.
To do this, we take a board of this width and with the help of a circular saw cut off a narrow strip from it equal to the thickness of the board itself. We make four blanks about 1200 mm long, that is, with an allowance. The exact height of the column will determine on the spot. The front side of the boards is fugued with a hand planer and ground.
Further, the most interesting - the assembly of the post of boards. We place one board with the front surface down; we apply the second board face to it at right angles. Covered up. countersink, lubricate with glue and connect on screws. In the same way, we consistently assemble the third and fourth boards. We obtain a hollow box with given external dimensions. The top of the cover with a lid made from the same board.
All holes for screws. slots and other defects we fill up with a putty. We used a two-component epoxy based putty. You can buy it at any auto parts store. It hardens very quickly, after which the product can be finally sanded and coated with the desired color of the stain, in our case the color of a dark walnut. It is better to use wood stain on the basis of white spirit, since it covers epoxy putty. But water-based stain copes with this task poorly. In the same way we putty, grind and paint skewers. Covering parts with a stain is recommended on all sides, including end and bottom surfaces.
Installation Everything is ready for final assembly. First of all, you should mount kosoura. To do this, install the left and right skewers on the edges of the front side out, determine the middle of the screed and put the middle support. To avoid displacement of the supports relative to each other, we connect them to each other along the back invisible side and along the lower front part of the visible side. We immediately connect the visible part with a ready riser. We made it on site from the available materials.
Next, we fix the kosoura on the foundation and the lower support beam of the house. We do this with the help of steel corners with perforations of size 75 x 75 mm. Three corners
we fasten the upper parts of the kowers to the beam and two corners for the kosour for fastening to the coupler. Fastening is carried out by dowel-nails 6 x 60 mm. Needless to say, here it is necessary to use the level for the most accurate installation of supports vertically and horizontally.
Attach risers to the installed supports. All holes are pre-drilled and countersink. Next, the installed risers are stained with stain. While they dry up, let's tread. Since the terrace floor is made of larch plank, treads on the steps were made of the same material. Everything is quite simple here: a section of the board, equal to the length of the porch, fits onto the kosour and is fastened with screws. All holes are also pre-drilled and countersink. On one step we put two such boards butt. These boards are covered not with a stain, but with a special impregnating oil to protect the surface from precipitation.
POSTS POSTS
So the time has come to install the pillars. Now you will see why they are made hollow. But everything is in order. First we determine the desired height of the pillars. Again some mathematics. Remember, at the very beginning we measured everything thoroughly? We did this for a reason. The distance from the terrace floor to the lower beam balustrade is 50 mm. The same distance from the handrail to the top beam. Handrail thickness - 50 mm, balustrade height yes plus 90 mm from the handrail to the top edge of the pillar. Confused? Do not worry! In general, the height of the pillars was 1110 mm. This size was measured and cut off.
Further, on the cubes of the base we outline the contour of the pillar and find the center. This is done in order to precisely in this place drill a hole under a previously acquired sanitary plug with a diameter of 8 mm with a double-sided screw. Insert the plastic dowel into the drilled hole and use a wrench to screw the screw into it.
Next, we take a previously prepared bar, whose cross section coincides with the internal size of the hollow pillar. In our case, the 100 x 100 mm piece of timber was ideally suited. In the center of the end we make a hole 6 mm. so that it is possible to screw the outer part of the sanitary screw into it.
Now the fun part. The end face of the bar adjacent to the foundation is lubricated with special glue. To joiners it is known under the name "PUR-glue". This glue tends to foam and grow in size like foam.
Strictly observing verticality. wind the bar on the screw until it stops, but so. so that the sides of the square of its cross section are parallel to the kosouram. The bar thus installed is covered with special glue and we put on our ready-made poles on top. With invisible sides fix them with self-tapping screws. It should be said that such fastening through 20-30 minutes will be non-separable. therefore, it is necessary to carry out this work carefully and without errors - it will be very difficult to fix them!
PORCH OWN HANDS - BEGIN TO FINISH
It remains the case for the balustrade.
That is, now you need to install the handrail and the staircase fence. The handrail is made the same as on the whole terrace - from 150 bar x 50 mm. Using the goniometer-template, we measure the angle and use a miter saw to cut off a part of the required size. We paint with wood stain, drill and countersink, fasten with screws. The same operation is repeated with the second rail. A small note: all visible holes and defects are carefully filled, let dry, grind and paint. In the same way we install the upper and lower fencing beams.
Now you need to make crosshairs. The feature of the sloping fence in the volume. that one crosshair diagonal is much longer than the other, and the angles at the installation sites differ from one another.
We went along the simplest path - we made a long billet with a large allowance, put it in place and noted the desired angle, first in the upper part, and after being cut with a saw and fitting the corner at the attachment point - and in the lower part of the fence. By the same principle noted the place of intersection of beams.
Then, using a saw, chisel and a hammer, we chose the middle for connecting the crosshairs in half-wood. When installing crosshairs, it is desirable that they are mounted on both sides equally. That is, if on one side there is a short beam inside the porch, and a long one on the outside, then it would be nice if they were also located on the other side of the fence.
THE LAST BAR OF THE INDUSTRIAL PORCH
Of course, all joints and abutments must be painted. All openings, cracks and defects must be carefully filled, sanded and treated with stain. And of course, a self-respecting master will surely restore order after the work is completed. Anyway, having a little bit of experience and a good tool, you can build not only a porch. Remember: the eyes are afraid, and the hands do!
See also: Do-it-yourself wooden terrace - photo and step-by-step master class
PORCH OWN HANDS - PHOTO
Do it yourself porch
The old porch of the house was laid out of brick and tiled, which eventually began to fall off (photo 1). Armed with materials and tools, he built a new comfortable porch with a canopy.
It took: 6 bars 50 × 30 mm 10 boards 100 × 25 mm 10 boards from pallets 3 pieces of roofing material 600 mm wide paint on wood antiseptic screws on wood 4 × 45 mm and 4 × 75 mm dowels for long screws.
Initially, all the wooden materials that I planned to use in construction were treated with an antiseptic in two layers.
On the steps of the old porch (he did not disassemble it, because this is a good foundation) he laid long logs. Secured with screws and dowels to the brick base. On the logs, he made a strapping from the bars in the form of steps, laid the boards on top and fixed them with self-tapping screws (photo 2).
Instead of the railing, I decided to make a bevel on the steps (on the right side, along the edge): I installed the support beam for the canopy roof at an angle and secured it with screws from below to the porch trim, and from above - through the rafters to the veranda wall. Treads sewn up with vertical boards.
The second roof pillar (left), also connected through the rafters to the wall of the veranda and rigidly fixed with self-tapping screws. From the boards removed from the pallets, he made parts for the railing. The figure was sawn with a jigsaw.
He laid pieces of wooden shields on the roof rafters and fixed them with self-tapping screws. He covered the roof with roofing material (photo 3), laying it on the mastic.
He cleaned all open walls of the veranda from old peeling paint and painted them with the porch in the same color.
Having previously taken the measurements, I cut out the elements of the patterned frame under the cut of the roof, painted them and, after drying completely, fixed them in their places (photo 4)
Looking at the new porch, I realized that the battered facade of the bathhouse, adjacent to the veranda and the house, spoils the whole view. I had to update it. I cleaned the chips and swelling of the old coating with sandpaper and painted the entire wall with waterproof paint. Glued decorative plaster bricks (photo 5). It turned out very well, and most importantly, economically.
© Author: Vyacheslav Vasilenko, Chelyabinsk. Photo by the author
PORCH OF THE HOUSE OWN HANDS - VIDEO (WE BUILD FOR YOURSELF)
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
Below other entries on the topic "How to make your own hands - a householder!"
- How to build an economical energy-efficient house - the rules of economy in construction. How to choose a project.
- DIY toilet in the country - a step-by-step description of the construction and photos
- Beautiful toilet house do it yourself - step by step photos and master class
- How quickly to build a small frame house with their own hands
- Building a house using TISE technology - part 4
- The best foundation = the right foundation
- DIY container house - photo and construction description
- How to make ventilation in the house with your own hands. Calculation.
- House of wild log (photo) - Canadian technology
- Building a house from arbolit - a step-by-step example of construction
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
Porch with your own hands
Being engaged in putting things in order on the site, we decided at the same time to update the porch of the house from the street. We share our idea of redecorating with you.
Having decided on the material for finishing and its quantity, my husband bought pine boards with a section of 100 × 25 and 100 × 40 mm and a bar with a section of 40 × 40 mm.
Partially dismantled the porch, leaving the base as it was still strong. I re-paved the floor on it (I used a board with a section of 100x40 mm) and laid linoleum on it.
From the same board I assembled an ordinary bench on self-tapping screws. From a bar on both sides of the porch, I mounted a railing. From boards with a section of 100 × 25 mm, I cut out balusters using a jigsaw using a template. I processed their edges on a milling cutter (you can grind them with sandpaper). I sewed up the railing frames with finished details (photo 1)
After mounting the balusters with a board with a section of 100 × 40 mm, he strengthened the bottom of the porch base, partially replaced the rotten lower planks (photo 2)
I mounted the railing frame on the other side of the door and sewed it up with balusters (photo 3)
When the porch was ready, I treated it with Mahogany-colored Aquateke protective impregnation. The new porch pleases not only us, but also passers-by, because it goes out into the street.