Useful tips for the carpenter: for both master and beginner - a collection of 9
Contents ✓
- ✓ MAKE TRAYS FOR GLUE
- ✓ HOW TO CALCULATE THE DEPTH OF SHIP SHOTS
- ✓ MEASURED PLANE FOR CONVENIENCE OF MARKING WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
- ✓ FOLDERS AND CUT-OFF CUTS CAN BE MADE A MILLER
- ✓ FORGET ABOUT THE PROBLEMS WITH CLUBS
- ✓ HOW TO MAKE A SMALL HOLE WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
- ✓ SPEEDSQUARE ELITE WILL BE MORE CONVENIENT
- ✓ PRESS FROM THE SCREW SUPPORT FROM THE TRAILER BY OWN HANDS
- ✓ SMART SLIDING SUPPORTS WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
- ✓ CHEAP AND PRIMITIVE DEVICES FOR DRAWING CIRCES WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
- ✓ LADDER WILL HELP BURNING LONG ITEMS
- ✓ IMPROVED DUSTING FOR BELT SAWS
- ✓ USEFUL ADVICE FOR COLORS AND FURNITURE MANUFACTURERS
HELPFUL TIPS AND IDEAS FOR BEGINNERS
MAKE TRAYS FOR GLUE
A part of the glue is squeezed out from under the invoice part glued to the flat panel. Removing it around the perimeter is difficult, which can affect the final finish. A sawn depth of 3 mm with an indentation of 3 mm from the edge of the glued part will become a “trap” for the glue and will not allow it to flow out. Cut along the upper and lower edges of bar C and only the upper edge of bar D.
HOW TO CALCULATE THE DEPTH OF SHIP SHOTS
Short spikes at the ends of the side bars must fit snugly into the tongues on the front and rear bars of the dustproof frame. To determine the depth of cuts for a tenon located exactly in the middle of the bar thickness, measure the dowel width (e.g. 6,4 mm) and subtract the resulting size from the bar thickness (19 mm). Divide the result (12,6 mm) in half - this will be the depth of the cuts on both sides of the bar. (In our example, cuts are cut out with a depth of 6,3 mm.) Make test spikes on the scraps to make sure that they fit tightly.
MEASURED PLANE FOR CONVENIENCE OF MARKING WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
Measuring plate will help you quickly and accurately mark recurring dimensions, for example, when marking the slots for the slats. Instead of measuring and marking the joints separately, mark them only once on the trimming board, as shown in the photo. Then attach the gauge to the part and transfer the marking lines. When working on this project, we also used the measuring bar as a stop for the lamellar router when sampling sockets in the lid and bottom (photo B).
See also: Useful tips for the carpenter: as a master and beginner - the release of 8
FOLDERS AND CUT-OFF CUTS CAN BE MADE A MILLER
If you need to make only a few folds or cuts, you can not install a slot disc in the saw machine, but perform the task using a mill mounted on the table. A fixed-mounted mill with a straight mill with a diameter of 19 mm allows to obtain folds of any width (for folds with a width of more than 19 mm several passes will be required). For selection of folds of a given width, fold-on cutters with bearings can be purchased.
To adjust the depth of the fold, raise or lower the mill (for a mirror, set the milling depth to 10 mm - half the thickness of the frame bars). The fold width is determined by the position of the parallel stop. When using a milling cutter with a bearing, position the lateral surface of the stop in line with the bearing (for a mirror, adjust the parallel stop to get a fold of 10 mm wide). Before milling parts of the product, check the settings of the milling table on the scraps.
When milling across the fibers (for example, cuts at the ends of the horizontal bars of the frame), direct the workpiece using a retaining bar-pusher, making it from trimming boards (we used a piece of MDF of size 19x150X300 mm), as shown in the photo. This will prevent chipping at the exit of the cutter from the workpiece.
FORGET ABOUT THE PROBLEMS WITH CLUBS
Clamps often interfere with alignment of structural parts, such as the A / B / C mirror frame, in the same plane when glued. In this case, place the parts on the supports, for example, bars of 50 × 100 mm in cross section, shown in the photo below. Where the gluing line crosses the stand, protect the bars with packing tape or wax paper.
HOW TO MAKE A SMALL HOLE WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
Drilling holes for mounting the hinges on the other side of the box by mistake, I was looking for a way to hide the defect. The holes were too small to plug them with plugs made with a cork drill, so I chose a regular pencil sharpener. Taking a dowel of the same wood that I used for the walls of the box, sharpened its tip and pasted it into the hole, then sawed off the excess with a hacksaw with fine teeth and polished it carefully. From the unsightly defect is almost no trace.
SPEEDSQUARE ELITE WILL BE MORE CONVENIENT
Add a moving rail to quickly and easily cut cuts at angles 90 and 45 degrees with a circular saw. Press the saw foot to the square, loosen the wing nut and slide the end of the rail over the saw blade. Tighten the nut and saw off the excess at the end of the rail, giving it the exact length. Now the rake will serve as a pointer; Combine its end with the mark on the workpiece to make a cut exactly in the right place.
PRESS FROM THE SCREW SUPPORT FROM THE TRAILER BY OWN HANDS
It is not easy to glue a workpiece for turning from several rings, gently aligning them, and ensure uniform pressure so that there are no gaps between them. I was able to solve the problem with the help of a screw leg support from a trailer for a car. First, screw together a simple frame from boards with a cross section of 50 × 150 mm and a plywood base. Install the screw support in the upper crossbar. The pressure of the screw support on the gluing is transmitted through the faceplate of the lathe, but it should not be excessive so that the glue is not squeezed out too abundantly. Such a press is also excellent for veneering parts.
SMART SLIDING SUPPORTS WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
In a small workshop, it is impossible to install fixed stops on both sides of the pendulum end saw: there simply is not enough space. Instead of such stops, I use a system of sliding supports or calipers, which is suitable for the support stand of my end saw. The caliper rods are inserted into the pens due to the pins. Now it is easy to quickly take out the support and move it from one side to the other.
CHEAP AND PRIMITIVE DEVICES FOR DRAWING CIRCES WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
For drawing circles, in which the exact radius does not matter much, I usually use a piece of perforated cardboard. Place the tip of the nail or stud in the center of your product, and put a piece of cardboard on top. Insert the tip of the pencil into the hole that is closest to the radius of the circle you want, and turn the cardboard.
LADDER WILL HELP BURNING LONG ITEMS
When I have to deal with the gluing of side pillars of doors that are too long for my workbench, using a folding ladder with a length of 240 cm is the perfect solution. I simply stack the ladder for a couple of saws, place my assembly on the ladder and press it with clamps to the steps. As a result, I get smooth details of the project.
See also: Useful tips for the carpenter: as a master and beginner - the release of 7
IMPROVED DUSTING FOR BELT SAWS
I am engaged in repair and restoration of old machines. On three 14-inch band saws, I was able to significantly improve the removal of sawdust and dust, and the result was excellent. You can do the same with your band saw.
Using PVC adhesive, glue a short piece of plastic 100 mm pipe into the socket of a plastic 100 mm tee as shown. Make a steel strip with a section of 3 × 25 mm
two plates with a length of 200 mm and make slots for the bolts that secure the saw table of the machine to the hinges. Then drill the holes for fixing the brackets or clamps intended for the installation of 100-mm pipes. Secure the brackets to the steel plates. Loosen the saw-table mounting bolts and put steel plates on them. (It may be necessary to install several washers so that the plates do not rest against the fins on the lower side of the table).
Attach a tee to the brackets with the help of screw clamps, directing it to the side of the saw band. Attach the dust extraction system hose to the short nozzle and cover the free socket of the tee with a cap. When the system is turned on, all the dust falling down through the slots and holes of the saw table will be sucked into the tee.
USEFUL ADVICE FOR COLORS AND FURNITURE MANUFACTURERS
When working on this article, materials from the beautiful WooDMaster magazine were used.
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
Below other entries on the topic "How to make your own hands - a householder!"
- How to draw up a carpentry drawing or drawing of a product or workpiece made of wood
- How to remove old finishes from wood - professional advice
- Processing of planks without a planer with their own hands
- Wooden spoon with own hands
- Useful tips and life hacks for a carpenter: both for a master and a beginner (tricks and secrets) - collection 20
- How to grind the grinder correctly and manually
- How to get rid of resin on window frames, furniture and other wooden surfaces
- Stylish mirror for the dresser do it yourself + detailed drawings and drawings
- Wood gluing (fixation of parts)
- Jigsaw carving (jigsaw machine) for beginners + master class
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DIY grinding cylinder
Wine corks can be used to make not only hot coasters, housekeepers and other crafts for the kitchen. This material can be used to make a grinding block for processing semicircular grooves.
He took a cork from the wine, cut it approximately to the center along one side with a hacksaw for metal. He wrapped the cork with sandpaper (photo 1), fixing the ends of the latter in the slot. The tool is ready. To prevent the sandpaper from popping out, I fixed it in the slot with an ice cream stick (photo 2) You can start grinding.
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"Shkantorez" do it yourself
During the construction of the gazebo, a large number of dowels were required to mask the caps of the screws. To speed up the process of making them, I used a little trick that I once spied on the Internet.
In a vise, I clamped a die for threading fixed in a holder, I selected it based on the desired dowel diameter (photo 1).
A lot of pants were stored in the pantry, which were not useful, I used them as raw materials. Clamped a rectangular bar into a screwdriver chuck. The free end is brought to the die. He turned on the tool and passed the rotating glazing bead through the die (photo 2).
So I performed 2-3 approaches. As a result, a neat round blank is obtained from a rectangular one, which remains to be cut into dowels of the required length.
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DIY mounting bracket
Finishing to assemble the door for the summer shower, I discovered that I did not have 20 mm wide mounting corners in stock. Quickly made parts from aluminum billets.
The aluminum corner was cut into blanks of the desired width. On the shelves of each core he marked the center of the point. First I drilled holes d 6 mm, then countersink them with a drill d 10 mm. I gathered the door to the finished corners
Note
A home-made mounting bracket is good in that it can be adjusted to the desired width and drill the required number of holes for the screws.
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The fact that life hacks make our life easier was convinced from personal experience. Many peeped ideas came in handy in my everyday life. I spend most of my free time in the workshop and I also have some useful and simple ideas.
To protect the working part of the chisel (blade), made a simple case. Old welding gloves were lying on the rack, although it was no longer possible to work in them, but the material from which they were sewn was very durable. I cut off one finger from the glove - the cover is ready (photo 1).
Sometimes a nail needs to be pulled out of a timber without damaging the surface with a nail puller. In this situation, a narrow spatula helps me out. I put it under the tool (photo 2) and without harm I remove the nail.
Surely everyone at least once bought silicone bracelets for their children. As a rule, interest in them quickly disappears, and they roll on a shelf or on a table until they get into the trash. I decided to use bracelets as holders of drills and screws on drills (photo 3)
The result is satisfied!
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Often during carpentry work it is necessary to glue parts at right angles, for example, in the manufacture of frames. It is difficult to fix details without special devices, and there’s not always money to buy them. Therefore, he made a simple retainer.
He took a rectangular piece of board of a suitable size. On it, approximately from the center to one long face, I drew two lines so that there was a right angle between them (see the figure on page 18)
I drilled a hole d 10 mm in the workpiece at the point of the apex of the wedge. Then, along the drawn lines, he sawed a triangle with a jigsaw. The latch is ready.
I lubricate the parts prepared for joining and glue them together, I place a triangle between them inside the corner, and on the outside the second part of the lock (photo 1) I clamp the entire joint with a joiner clamp (photo 2) and wait for the glue to seize.