Life hacking for garden and summer resident - a collection of 112
Contents ✓
LIFHAKHI FOR DACHI AND PEOPLE'S TIPS
INCOMING FOR TOMATOES
Many readers (especially those living in regions with a changing climate) write that they use such a well-known and simple technique as fruit ripening to obtain a high-quality tomato crop. They do everything right. That's just the simplicity of this technique - a relative thing.
Indeed, in reality, one must also be able to dose out, otherwise there may be losses. Personally, I have allocated a whole special room for this business, in which the temperature is kept at the same level - 25-26 °. And the fruits I keep in this incubator are not scattered in a continuous layer on newspapers or in drawers, but in plastic food bowls of 6-8 liters each. Moreover, I always put in at least one ripe tomato in each of the unripe tomatoes: fully ripened fruits give off ethylene gas, which helps them to ripen the "comrades" who have not yet reached the condition.
By the way, at the same time I advise all summer residents to learn to distinguish the stages of tomato ripeness.
There are three of them. The first is when the fruits reach their intended size and signs of staining appear on them. They tolerate transportation well and ripen very quickly in a warm room. The second degree is when the fruits are completely colored in their color. It is from such tomatoes that seeds should be collected. If they are well washed in cold water, dried and folded in paper bags, the germination will be almost 100%. And finally, the third degree of ripeness - the so-called consumer. The fruits are filled with liquid (placenta) and have high palatability, but the seeds in them, especially after ripening, lose their germination to 70%.
The high quality of the fruits is also explained by the fact that all the bushes during the season are under my shelter from above and below (see photo).
© Author: Leonid V. PORHUNOV. with. Kuznetsov Fighter Primorsky Krai
See also: Life hacking for garden and summer resident - a collection of 111
CUCUMBERS IN “STOCKS”
I want to share with the readers some ideas. I hope someone will come in handy.
To drown on the carrot beds the very first weeds, which appear earlier than the shoots of their neighbors, I spray them once with a weak solution of kerosene from a normal garden sprayer. I do this in the morning, as soon as the dew subsides. The weeds dry up immediately, the carrots grow cheerful and fun, but I do not need to bend my back for its weeding. There is not the slightest harm from the use of kerosene: firstly, its concentration is very small, and secondly, by the time of ripening of root crops it will take so long that it will completely leave the earth.
And in order to save water (we have very bad conditions with it in SNT) and films (it is consumed in a large garden), I plant cucumbers in mini-greenhouses, where only four bushes are placed. What is the advantage? And the fact that I do not need to dismiss the length of the standard film sleeve. I cut only pieces of 1,5 m length from him and put these sleeve fragments, like stockings, on pegs, which I drive in the corners of the “dividing nights” with four cucumber bushes.
From below I press the film to the garden bed, and at the top of the sleeves I simply knot it. Moisture under such "stockings" is well preserved in the ground, and therefore watering can be done not abundant and not frequent.
And so that the film does not break through, I put plastic bottles on the pegs. And there are such mini-parnikki me until the fall.
Well, I advise dacha gourmets to make compote from red cherry. Delicious! Syrup for him must be prepared, as for any other "normal" compotes. And the banks, of course, must be sterilized.
Anna
I constantly come across complaints of gardeners about winter garlic: of course, it is good for everyone, except for one - it is poorly stored. And this drawback for many crosses out all its advantages. Well that's true. But I found a way to get rid of this problem.
First of all, I realized that you do not need to store excess home - I leave just as much as I need for food. And the rest of the heads put away in a hole dug in the garden. Its dimensions are 50 × 70 cm. I lay the leaves on the bottom, then I cover all of it inside with cardboard and drop the heads of garlic folded into a cardboard box there.
All this I fall asleep with dry foliage, I put plywood on top, I cover the pit with earth and stick a stick so that in the spring I can immediately see where my “treasure” is hidden. When the earth thaws at the beginning of the season, I dig a hole and pull out fresh, dry and uncorrupted garlic from it (unless sometimes sprouts begin to break through on individual heads of heads, but this is nothing).
Such garlic can be eaten and planted if there was no time to make it in the fall. This is how I save my crop.
A few words now about cucumbers. Yes, the seeds, of course, are not always of good quality. For example, last spring planted eight little things in the greenhouse, and half of the plants that sprouted did not bloom. I pulled them out and planted later varieties, which until October bore fruit. From this, she concluded: in May, only early varieties should be planted, and in June - late.
By the way, the seeds are always soaked, and after they are hiked, I immediately drop them into the holes spilled with hot water, which I lightly sprinkle, and immediately put arcs over the garden bed and stretch the film on them. And the day 3-4 do not look there. Seeds are warm and comfortable. And a week later sprouts appear.
© Author: TA Glushkova, Oryol
HOW TO MAKE RAKE CONVENIENT
A rake is an indispensable tool in the arsenal of any gardener. But only on sale today they are often sold of such "high" quality that they not only work, but even take it in their hands, they bend dangerously, like cardboard. And if you step on them ...
But there is a way to improve their quality and functionality. For example, you can weld on the inner side of the corner on which the teeth are fastened, a metal bar with a diameter of 5-8 mm (photo 1). Yes, the weight of the tool will increase, but this will be compensated for by a significant increase in the rigidity of the rake’s structure, and they will honestly “plow” more than one year. Another nuance. On soft soils, when “combing” them when preparing the beds, the standard rake width sometimes becomes insufficient. And while working, you spend extra time going through the same section twice.
The exit is elementary: take another rake (better exactly the same), cut off the cutting arm, cut the remaining work surface in half, weld the halves end-to-end buttly on the right and left to your working rake (photo 2). After this, of course, it is necessary to strengthen the entire structure with the help of the technique already described above. A cut-off bracket can be used, for example, to make a hoe from good steel (photo 3).
By the way, a wide rake will provide a more even surface of the ground for planting.
© Author: Vadim SAFONOV
See also: Life hacking for garden and summer resident - a collection of 110
GASKET PIPE
The cottage is good because it allows not only to study garden science, but also to experiment.
For example, quite by chance I found out that celery and parsley of the second year through the autumn can be transplanted into flower pots and brought them home by putting them on window sills. And then the fragrant greens will delight for a long time, despite the fact that the garden has already hibernated.
Another point related to greenery. I sow spinach only at the end of the season - in November. It winters well and quickly grows in the spring. And if you plant it at the beginning of the season, then for some reason it goes into the arrow.
And while working in the garden, strings of different length are constantly needed: either to tie up the tomatoes, then to grab the overgrown bushes, and you never know what else you need to “twist-twist” in the garden! And in order not to run constantly in search of such garters (and the need for them always appears unexpectedly and at the most inconvenient time), I attached a pipe to one of the walls and hung a large number of pre-cut ropes of different lengths on it.
© Author: M.N. BISHIROVA
It has long been going to put a new greenhouse, but it turned out that it was possible to order it only at the beginning of last season. So far, back and forth, they brought it only on May 7, right at the height of the garden works. And so immediately a sharp question arose: where to get the soil for this greenhouse? Everything is already planned out.
And then I remembered the method of warm beds. First I put empty plastic bottles and cans (to isolate the cold coming from the ground), put all sorts of rotten pieces, branches and sawdust brought on a wheelbarrow, then a layer of humus, which was sprinkled with microbiological fertilizer, and finally, all this was “polished” by thick. a layer of good garden land.
They planted tomato seedlings on the beds thus formed and tied it up with twine to the top rails of the greenhouse.
Soon the return frosts struck, but the plants survived, they did not freeze (the Bull's Heart variety especially pleased me in this sense).
My greenhouse, by the way, is in length 4 m, and in it I collected then 14 large buckets of beautiful tomatoes. Removed the fruit even in October. Conclusion: my plants quite liked the plants, although they are made in half of any litter. I wish all summer cottage workers to have great harvests, good health and good mood.
© Author: Lydia Istomina
PUSH BRUSH KIT: HOW TO GET RID?
I am amazed all the time: how many evil weeds are in the world! They are not otherwise given to us so that we do not relax. Therefore, there are a lot of letters in the magazine about how to get rid of this or that “guest”. For example, some people write about some incomprehensible and persistent ginger grass.
This weed in common people is called a “noose”. Basically, it appears near raspberries, spreading later throughout the garden. But where it comes from is not clear. The grass first sprouts, then sticks to the stems of plants or branches of bushes, sucking out juices from them. Then, on the “noose”, seed boxes are formed, which crack when ripe and their contents scatter around tens of meters. At me this grass entangles almost all the greens, and it especially feels at ease on itself on carrots and beets. But for some reason it does not get along with tomatoes.
I struggle with it in the following way: without waiting for the seed boxes to appear, I tear off its stems (if it does, I pull it out with the roots), put it in an old iron tank and burn it. I do this carefully, because even if a piece of the stem falls on the ground, it will surely germinate there. I follow the appearance and condition of the “stranglehold” constantly. Not that it was troublesome, but some time, of course, still takes away.
"The noose" is the popular name for the parasite dodger.
© Author: E. Tereshchenko
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Last year, the harvest of tomatoes was excellent: I barely had time to collect ripe fruit. And they were all large, with good juicy color. And when she began to make blanks, she discovered that many had white and some kind of "wooden" flesh. It was impossible to say in appearance of these fruits that I shot them immature. On the contrary, she was even afraid that they would be overripe. Dear gardeners, tell me, please, what is the reason? And what should I do so that this does not happen again?