Do-it-yourself flower garden in cold climates (soil preparation and other tips)
NORTHERN FLOWER IN OUR HANDS
In the northern climate, decorative gardening can be practiced mainly within the forest belt, where there is no permafrost.
This is almost the entire Kola Peninsula, right up to the northern coast of the Barents Sea, and from Pechora to the Urals to the latitude of the Arctic Circle. It’s not so difficult to break the flower garden in the northern climate.
Here are some tips to help you do this.
When preparing a place for future landings, do not rush to uproot everything that grows on and around the site. On the periphery of your land tenure, for example, leave birch, aspen, willow. Narrow strips of trees and shrubs with a width of 1,5-2 m can be preserved on the site itself: they will protect the future flower garden from frequent and strong winds.
In addition, backstage from shrubbery creates a special microclimate, and the temperature in the nook will always be at 2-3 ° (sometimes at 4-5 °) higher than in the open. More snow will accumulate here, and this is an important condition for successful floriculture in the North. After all, so that perennials do not freeze, the thickness of the snow cover should be at least 70-80 cm. The site must be leveled, stones removed (they will be useful for the future rockery).
See also: DIY easy-care flower garden - photo and selection of plants
In the North, natural soils are not suitable for floriculture (low pH, lack of mineral compounds and organics), so it is better to prepare the substrate for growing plants ourselves.
Greenhouse land, or humus, can be obtained from horse manure. Dumped into low heaps, it rotts over the 3-4 of the year.
To prepare the turf land, lay the layers of grass or cereal (not sedge) turf in stacks 1 -1,5 m high and leave it on 1 -2 of the year. Then disassemble them, cut with a shovel and sift through the screen. This substrate, mixed with sand, is indispensable for greenhouse and greenhouse plantings, as well as for flower beds and the improvement of peaty and clay soils.
Peaty land is necessary for the refinement of sandy and clay soils. Collect black peat in wide low heaps and dig it several times during the summer. You can add lime. After 2-3 years, the acidity of the substrate will shift closer to neutral, and it will be ready for use.
Washed river sand mixed with fertile soil improves the properties of peaty and clay soils.
Preparing the area for planting, dig the soil, make humus (approximately 100 kg per 1 weaving). The first two years I advise sowing oats, oats with vetch or peas, after which the soil will be ready to create a lawn. If the lawn is needed already in the first year, sprinkle the land on the plot from the old garden or make a substrate of humus (20%), peaty soil (20-30%) and local sandy or loamy soil. Mix the components well and pass through the screen, then spread the substrate evenly over the entire area. You can sow grass in spring or before winter (end of September), not earlier than 5-10 days after soil preparation. After which it is advisable to compact the ground with a roller weighing 30-70 kg.
On flowerbeds and pitches, the layer of garden soil should be at least 30 cm. For annuals, it is advisable to cover fresh horse manure under the fertile layer, which will heat the soil from below. For crops in greenhouses and hotbeds, a less nutritious mixture of turf soil (50%), humus (10-20%) and washed river sand (30-40%) is suitable.
In this climatic zone, late-flowering summers are best planted in autumn or early winter, as spring crops do not have time to bloom due to the short summer. It doesn’t matter how you sow, but the seeds need to be sown to a depth that is 2-3 times their size, although you can not sow fine seeds or lightly sprinkle them with sifted sand (this agricultural technique prevents the appearance of soil crust and the growth of mosses, which is usually in conditions of increased humidity in the North).
The conditions in the northern regions are different, but there are common features. For example, spring is too late, early autumn and short summer. This reduces the growing period in open ground, but if you use a greenhouse, you can grow a lot of seedlings of different colors. White nights, long daylight hours help growth - plants receive enough light for development. Winters are severe, but under the snow they are not terrible for perennials.
Here are some plants that you can safely plant in the North: delphiniums, cornflowers, chamomiles, bells, asters, godetsia, aquilegia, cosmeas, Turkish carnations, pansies, daisies, rudbeckia, phlox, astilbe, peonies, lilies.
© Author: M. KULIKOVA, agronomist
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By mid-summer, sections of our flower garden were bare. Tell me, please, how can you quickly “patch” such “holes”?
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For the quick restoration of the flower garden in the second half of summer, only those plants that are grown in pots and containers are suitable. At this time, roses and grassy perennials will take root in the new place perfectly, but provided that there is enough moisture in the soil - the soil should be soaked to a depth of about 20 cm. You can control the moisture level by digging the soil with a shovel.
“New settlers” need to create favorable conditions for quick adaptation. Before planting, lower the earthen lump with roots into a bucket of water. Plant plants only in cloudy weather so that evaporation of moisture from the leaves is minimal. It is advisable to mulch the landing site - this will retain moisture and prevent weeds from breaking through.
Planted plants at first can still begin to drop foliage and buds. But do not despair, because the change of place and conditions does not always pass without a trace. Already days through 10 they will adapt to a new place and the advent of new kidneys will signal to you that everything is in order. Most tall plants may need support so that their stems do not die or break.