Ways of planting carrots and my reviews about them + choosing the best after the experiment (photo)
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CARROT SEEDING TECHNOLOGY - NOT TO SPRING AND WHICH IS THE MOST CONVENIENT QUICK AND EASY
You can argue for a long time about which method of planting this crop is best, while continuing to “kill” in the beds. And you can take and immediately all the ways to experience! And fill the bins, making important observations at the same time.
CARROT PLANTING TECHNOLOGY WITHOUT SIDE EFFECTS
Last year, I thought of changing the agrotechnology of carrots to find the easiest and most effective way. I will explain. I really do not like thinning and take up this work only when the plants are completely "not turning" in the garden. Then I cut a thicket across the rows with a small plane cutter and cover the resulting grooves with the same tool. The main thing is to really cut through, making short sharp movements. Otherwise, the opposite will turn out: you can stir up the earth and damage the roots of plants.
In fact, carrots are not difficult to grow, but sometimes they can still buck up. Therefore, you always have to keep an eye on her. Before I try out a new way of landing, in spite of even good reviews, I turn on my own brains. Well, for example, what guarantees can there be when sticking seeds on toilet paper? After all, much depends on a whole bunch of various factors. Well, let's say, in this case, the crop may be affected by planting dates, the degree of soil moisture on the bed, storage conditions for seeds, the composition of the paste, as well as the temperature and time of its solidification. And that is not all!
It is possible that during the soaking in the glue seeds in them will be launched "mechanism" of awakening. Or, conversely, the drying of the glue will lead to the blocking of the “embryos", and then do not wait for the crop. And if he does, there’s still a great chance to run into problems.
It is no coincidence that G. V. Lebedeva, in his article “Gardens without bald patches with his own hands”, writes about sticking seeds on toilet paper as follows: “This is too tedious work, and carrots come out unevenly. What then to do with bald patches in the garden? ” In short, there are too many side effects.
See also: Device for sowing carrots by own hands
BANK WITH SECRET
Landing in a line more traditional and more than once tested by me method. In the old days, with a blackboard, and now with a manual cultivator, I make two or three longitudinal lines on the bed, pour them with a strong stream of water and lay out the seeds every 5 cm there. The chances of getting the expected result are much higher here. But what a dreary, all the same way! In addition, carrot small seeds are completely invisible against the background of the earth. Therefore, when using this technology, I scatter the seed by the method of “salting” as if I were throwing a pinch of salt. There is, however, one more negative point: far from always, all purchased seeds turn out to be of high quality.
Eh, you say, but didn’t try to check their germination ability, you wise guy? Well, at least with the help of immersion in salt water? Even a child can handle this! That is true, but I do not use this verification method for the reason indicated above: why wake a sleeping seed?
The problem of using low-quality seeds is partially solved by planting under a jar. And it is especially convenient when sowing in the winter, when the soil is slightly frostbitten.
The technology is like that. I take a tin can with a diameter of 5-6 cm with a concave spherical bottom (there are a lot of different reagents for any motorist in them), and I use it to make deep marks every 5-8 cm along the lines cut on the bed with a hand cultivator. Small piles are formed, on which I spread three to five seeds with a pinch. If even half of them do not rise, the bed will still be full. And if everything comes up, then again there will be enough space for the plants, since the seeds roll out from the tops of the hills in different directions during sowing and then you will not have to pull out the crops. This method can also be used in spring, only then it is impossible to water the ground before sowing, since it will immediately stick to the concave bottom of the can.
PACKAGING CHEHARD
So what's next? Yeah, here's the use of egg containers for growing seedlings. I have never done this, considering such a pastime completely boring. But last spring I arrived at the cottage, and there the cold was charged, and even with strong cold winds during the day and frosts at night. I did not want to go outside, but my hands asked for work. And then a different-sized container from under the eggs caught my eye. I decided to try it.
However, he turned on the mind again and made his own corrections. With large packs of thick cardboard, I cut off the bottoms with a knife with sharp cloves (photo 1). It turned out to be difficult to do with paper containers, so I had to first make cross-sectional cuts in the cells with a sharp knife (photo 2), and then squeeze holes with my finger (photo 3). He did the same in the lids of the packages. And then he put all the resulting packaging in rows, according to its “classification” (photo 4).
After that, he filled all the cells with earth mixed with humus, and installed the containers in plastic boxes (photo 5), which they had previously lined with foil. Then in each cell I made a hole about 2 cm deep, dropping one seed there (I selected the largest ones). He put the boxes in the greenhouse and covered with foil so that the earth in the cells would not dry out.
A few days later, when it became warmer on the street, he deeply loosened the bed (he did not dig!). I’ll clarify: I shoved a shovel into the soil all the way and immediately tilted it at an angle of 30 °, and so every 15-20 cm. After that, with a rake (their width is slightly larger than the largest package for eggs), I leveled the middle of the bed, slightly deepening it and simultaneously leaving on both sides sides about 5 cm high. All excess land was thrown down into the passage. As a result, a peculiar trough formed on the surface of the bed.
DB of him I put all the containers with the seeds sown (photo 6), slightly pressing them into the ground. At the same time, I set the narrowest packages, as can be seen in the picture, with small gaps, so that later they could be opened to better illuminate the plants.
After that, he poured earth on the packages from all sides, filling in all the gaps between them. It remains to water the cells well and mulch with dry humus and peat so that the moisture evaporates less.
I must say, there was no trouble with this garden. It took more time to talk about her than to leave. Weeds grew slowly. I almost did not bother loosening and weeding, especially since I almost mechanized this work: in the evenings, every two weeks, I watered the garden well, and in the morning, after the dew disappeared, I took a plane cutter with a long handle and gently loosened them between the rows, at the same time essentially hilling them. After that, I examined the work done and picked weeds uprooted. Thinning is not carried out. And what's interesting: almost a month after the emergence of shoots from the packaging, there was practically nothing (left. Abundant watering and earth dwellers did their job.
LAMINATE IN THE GARDEN
For the same reason (from idleness) I decided to accelerate the preparation of seeds for planting on another bed. There were no more packages, so I cut strips of newspapers 1, 5-2 cm wide from newspapers, then “unfastened” them into small squares, and wrapped each one with a carrot seed. I did not expect that everything will turn out very quickly! And landing on the garden was even faster. He made three deep parallel grooves with a hand cultivator 20-25 cm apart, from a watering can without a diffuser, he spilled them well with a strong jet, waited for the water to absorb, and laid out paper lumps with seeds. After that, he sprinkled them with dry earth, put a wooden block on each buried line and stepped on it with his foot, tamping the ground. And he covered the garden bed with a film (if the weather was hot, he would use a non-woven fabric so as not to burn the seedlings). I didn’t spend any thinning here.
It turns out that I was skeptical about this method in vain: conveniently, quickly and at a low cost. And most importantly - the crop was good.
But I already ran ahead. And then, in the spring and summer, all the time I was in deep thought. After all, the weather turned out to be terrible last season. At first there was, as already noted, a piercing cold, a little later, i.e. in May, the heat came, and such that on the radio every now and then they broadcast all new temperature records. I had to urgently take action and make an additional, safety net, right under the scorching sun. In photo 7, you can see exactly what the carrots planted at the end of May in the very heat look like.
And I did it like that. In the center of the garden he laid out strips of laminate in one row, on both sides of which he made two deep grooves with a hand cultivator and shed them from a watering can without a diffuser. When the water was absorbed, it sowed seeds along the outer edges of the grooves and lightly covered them with dry earth. So that she would not dry out quickly in windy hot weather, she covered the laminate with loose grass and laminate. Watering was carried out from a watering can without a diffuser with a weak stream along this mulch, but next to the grooves and even along the laminate itself so that water would not fall on the sprouts and a crust of dry soil would not form above them. When the plants gained strength, the laminate was removed, thereby saving the carrots from the neighborhood with weeds. And immediately all well raskhylil. In the future, care consisted only in rare loosening and watering between the rows.
THINKING OUT LOUD
To summarize.
Carrots, sown in the traditional way of "salting" in three rows, grew pretty good: root crops were 10-15 cm long and about 13 mm in diameter. Almost everyone turned out to be smooth. There were almost no trifles. It took 10 minutes to sow, but I had to tinker with weeding.
Carrots sown by the method of laying out the seeds every 4-5 cm in the same three rows grew 15-20 cm long and about 20 mm in diameter. But not all root crops were smooth and clumsy. There were few small ones. Landings turned out with bald spots. I spent about 1 hour sowing
Carrots sown in cells grew large (photo 8), but bald patches were also observed in the rows. Apparently, the quality of the seeds still let us down. Little things grew quite a bit. The time spent on sowing was not measured due to the unusual method.
Carrots, sown in newspaper squares in two rows (with a distance of 25 cm between them), grew very large and almost flat. Little things were not at all. True, the crop was thoroughly corrupted by snails. Why these creatures showed particular interest in this particular garden is completely incomprehensible to me. Spent less than 10 minutes on sowing.
CONCLUSIONS.
Most of all I liked the way of landing in newspaper squares. Arguments: unexpectedly quick preparation, fast landing, convenient care (loosening and simultaneous weeding with a large plane cutter in one pass, and the same applies to hilling with a manual cultivator). Harvesting was very nice. The only inconvenience due to digging the soil onto the bayonet of a shovel (that is, the soil was as light as fluff), the root crops grew large and by the time of ripening began to crawl out of the ground, resting their tips against dense clay. Well, and as a result, some of them began to crack. The way out is to dig deeper into the bed before sowing or to huddle plants in mid-August, especially since wide rows allow this to be done. However, small carrots are also needed on the farm, so I will plant them in the traditional way, but only with more active thinning with a plane cutter.
In the process of experiments, the idea came up to make planting in double rows. The result should be impressive from the point of view of reducing labor costs for cultivating the land (digging in the bed only two narrow strips to the depth and width of the shovel bayonet), and from the point of view of further care (the distance between the double rows of 25 cm will allow with a large plane cutter, loosen the weave in one pass, i.e. approximately 1 m in 30 seconds). What about efficiency? It will also be on top, because on a bed with a width of 65-70 cm will be placed not two, but four lines of seeds planted in a checkerboard pattern and, of course, wrapped in newsprint. Most importantly, these methods allow you to "mechanize" the laborious processes of weeding and thinning, as well as to fully use plane cutters and a cultivator, saving hands for other work.
In any case, carrots should be sown as early as possible, i.e. immediately after the snow melts. If you miss this time, which lasts only a week or two, you can fly with the harvest.
© Author: Boris PUSTOVALOV, Moscow
See also: Device for sowing carrots by own hands
7 WAYS TO SEED CARROTS - VIDEO
TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.
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